UKC

In the Mammut Rock Climbing Classics series, where the stars of today climbs classic routes together with people who where actually there when it happened. In this video Anna Stöhr tries La Rose et la Vampire together with Antoine Le Menestrel who made the first ascent back in 1985.
In the mid 80s...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68975

In reply to UKC News:

Great video, but 'free solo-' really...

In reply to UKC News:

wonderful, the history combined with the fun they both appear to be having really makes it for me.

*Revelations, 8a+

In reply to UKC News:

Question from someone who is never going to climb anything like that. The route ends under what looks like a 1 meter roof. Has anyone tried to extend the route through the roof? If you look at 4:20, that roof looks like the crux of a much harder route.

In reply to HakanT:

Has anyone tried to extend the route through the roof?

Yes

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=33474

In reply to GuyVG:

Thanks!

In reply to spidermonkey09:

I believe that's correct. Antoine made a free-solo ascent of Revelations...

In reply to Removed UserZebdi:
Know its correct (and madly impressive) but I was being pedantic- hate the Americanism of 'free-solo'- its solo...

In reply to spidermonkey09:

Ah I see. I'm not a native speaker and I guess I missed it. I agree with you on that when it comes to single pitch (sport) routes, solo means free-solo. However, when it comes to multi pitch routes, solo doesn't always mean free-solo - take Alex Honnold for example. But I guess it doesn't really matter

In reply to UKC News:

<swoon> Gosh, Fräulein Stöhr is really quite lovely isn't she? I'm in love again... </swoon>

Back in the day didn't people figure of the four the crux of La Rose et la Vampire? This must have been before Jeff Lowe and Will Gadd nicked all the figures of fours and wouldn't give them back to anyone who didn't have a pair of ice tools in hand and a free hanging icicle 20 mtrs above their head.

In reply to TobyA:

I don't think so. That'd be the crux of Chouca, but the hold broke and it's not possible anymore.

In reply to Removed UserZebdi:

Thanks. I've never been there, I just remember some iconic photos of early 90s sport climbing (for instance, Neil Gresham with a very 1991 haircut! from Buoux and people figure of fouring, but I remember the name Chouca as well, so I'm sure it was that one as you say.

Anyway, I will watch it again just to see if I can see any fig4 potential, and not because I have a teenager's-crush on the lovely Ms Stöhr...

In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

and the original
http://www.escalando.org/2013/06/la-historia-detras-de-la-foto-yaniro/

In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

Thanks Alan, and I suspect Gresham mentioned it in one of his training articles way back when which is why I connected him (and his haircut) with the image!

In reply to nicmac:

Such an iconic photo that the French now think that Yaniro invented it and indeed call a fig4 a Yaniro!

With regard to the Rose move, she doesn't seem to have to do it in such an extreme way as most other climbers I've seen on it with their head ducked under their right arm as they reach with the left. So why is that?

In reply to jon:


Out of interest, what do the French call a gaston?

In reply to Quiddity:

En épaule.

In reply to jon:


Because she is quite immensely strong maybe? (Was watching other Mammut videos after this one and watched her stroll up Brad Pit). If not that, then my money is on it being because she is a magic fairy princess all the way from the Kingdom of Loveliness. OK, I'll stop now. Promise.

In reply to TobyA:

I think probably theother climbers I referred to were also immensely strong.

In reply to jon:


It might just be because she's shorter, so using the same footholds, the pockets are more overhead for her.

In reply to Mark Bull:

Maybe... But I'd have thought that if she was shorter then the 'Rose' would have to be more extreme for her to get the reach.

In reply to jon:
She also appears to be quite narrow across the shoulders in comparison to the length of her arms, certainly in comparison to most blokes. Good shoulder flexibility will help, too.

In reply to jon:


If you Google pictures of the route, many other people do it without the head right under the arm. The most notable exception is the famous picture of Wolfgang Gullich on it (who incidentally never completed the route).

Anyway the difference is how high you pull up and lock with your right hand whilst crossing - pulling up into a deeper lock gives more sideways reach, staying low gives less reach so you have to twist your head underneath your arm to reach further. The method is probably dictated by the footholds you choose to use (or vice versa).

In reply to RupertD:

Makes sense Rupert, thanks. Just need the temperatures to cool down a bit now...

In reply to RupertD:

So you're telling me she's not a magic fairy princess from the kingdom of loveliness then?

In reply to TobyA:

Calm down Toby (and on no account look for the Katana Women Changing Colour adverts on youtube)

Best of the Mammut videos yet, partly because of the characters of AS and MlM, partly because the redpoint is well filmed.