UKC

Big HS-HVS Routes in North Wales

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 CharlieMack 13 Jun 2014
As stated. Going to North Wales next week Weds-Fri. Want to get on some long routes with a friend. Around the HS-HVS grade. Thinking 4 pitch/100m or longer preferably.

And... go!
 chris fox 13 Jun 2014
In reply to CharlieMack:

Obvious one is Tennis Shoe on Idwall Slabs (i did this yesterday), superb line.
 Ann S 13 Jun 2014
In reply to CharlieMack:
You can't leave without doing Mur y Niwl on Craig yr Ysfa. Reckoned to be one of the best VS routes in Wales.

Edited-choice of finish but usually done up Pinnacle Wall as a 2/3 pitch Sev finale.
Post edited at 21:00
 The Pylon King 13 Jun 2014
In reply to CharlieMack:

Main Wall - The best HS in the UK
In reply to CharlieMack:

Great/Bow-Shaped Slab
 Jon Stewart 13 Jun 2014
In reply to CharlieMack:

Not done it, but Cordon Bleu on Main Cliff might be good if the mountains are wet.
 Nordie_matt 13 Jun 2014
In reply to CharlieMack:
The cracks on Dinas Mot is good at either vs or hs dependent on 2 pitch variations. Worth a look, and if you're on 60m half ropes you can do the descent in one.
Post edited at 23:29
In reply to Nordie_matt:

Why mention The Cracks, which is arguably the least distinguished of all the great routes on the Nose of the Mot?
 james mann 14 Jun 2014
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Why not? It's a great little route, very varied and a classic rock tick to boot. Agreed that it is easiest route on there but not undistinguished. Direct route, diagonal, west rib, western slabs and crosstie are all fantastic at the grade also. In the area Munich climb is brilliant, belle cue bastion and any of the classic vs or hvs stuff on flight too if it's dry enough.

James
OP CharlieMack 14 Jun 2014
In reply to CharlieMack:

Cheers for all the suggestions. Had a look through the guidebook and they look good fun. Keep getting drawn to some of the harder lines but not sure my mate could second.

If there is an out there E1 or one that's pretty second friendly, feel free to chuck that in too
In reply to james mann:

> Why not? It's a great little route, very varied and a classic rock tick to boot. Agreed that it is easiest route on there but not undistinguished. Direct route, diagonal, west rib, western slabs and crosstie are all fantastic at the grade also. In the area Munich climb is brilliant, belle cue bastion and any of the classic vs or hvs stuff on flight too if it's dry enough.

> James

Yes, all the routes you mention are great, and rather better than The Cracks (you feel so much on the 'side of the main action' round there - yes the rock is good, but so is it on every route on the Nose)
 Nordie_matt 14 Jun 2014
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Why not? It's an enjoyable route with the two upper pitches being the best, also it is at the lower end of the grade range the op asked for.

The op asked for suggestions and that is what he was given, whether or not he chooses to do a route will most likely be decided by looking up guide book descriptions, pictures and comments on a route.

After all, folk are all different and may enjoy different routes to other folk.
 The Ivanator 14 Jun 2014
In reply to CharlieMack:

> If there is an out there E1 or one that's pretty second friendly, feel free to chuck that in too

Cemetery Gates - only 2 (or one long) pitches, but low in the grade, second friendly and pretty "out there". Whilst you are at the Cromlech throw in Dives/Better Things HS, Sabre Cut VS and Noah's Warning VS.
 jezb1 15 Jun 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

> Cemetery Gates - only 2 (or one long) pitches, but low in the grade, second friendly and pretty "out there".

Although not overly technical it's pumpy and if you do it in two then the belay ledge is pretty small - depends what's meant by 2nd friendly.

Heather crapped herself following me up it!

 The Ivanator 15 Jun 2014
In reply to jezb1:

Fair comment, and fair play to Heather on following you, she's obviously still keen to impress
 jezzah 16 Jun 2014
In reply to CharlieMack:

My list at the grades you are after-:
Tennis shoe and continuation up the Idwall slabs
Phantom rib Clogwyn y Grochan
Brant or Brant direct and continuation Clogwyn y Grochan
Main Wall Cyrn Las
Dives/ better things Dinas Cromlech (only 2 pitches but because you start so high in the valley it feels much higher than it is)

Have fun - you've got a good weather window this week.
OP CharlieMack 16 Jun 2014
In reply to CharlieMack:

Cheers to the responses. Looking for longer routes over 100m really rather than routes that could be done in a single pitch. After big days out rather than pitching for the sake of it.
Main wall looks good fun. Done Tennis shoe and quite a few variations on Idwal. But after similar things.

Friendly for the second, as in she's not been climbing in ages. Happy to get on harder stuff and dog up, as long as they are not traverse cruxs etc where she could swing off into no-mans land.
 jezzah 16 Jun 2014
In reply to CharlieMack:

The definitive "Mountain" crag in Snowdonia is Cloggy... most routes there start at VS and bear in mind that it can be a pretty daunting/ exciting crag to be on... masses of history... if it's dry go and check it out.
pasbury 16 Jun 2014
In reply to CharlieMack:

Kirkus's route in Cwm Silyn
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