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High Magazine - August 1995

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 steve taylor 15 Jun 2014
Hi - I hope someone can help here...

I've heard tell that High Magazine had an article on climbing in Saudi Arabia in August 1995.

Sadly I've cleared-out my collection and was hoping that someone could scan and send me the article? I'd owe this person a few pints if I ever met them, but they'd have my virtual thanks forever!

Thanks in advance

Steve

 Steve Crowe Global Crag Moderator 15 Jun 2014
In reply to steve taylor:

Hi Steve,
I have found it and I am scanning it now.
Message me.
 Lankyman 15 Jun 2014
In reply to Steve Crowe:

Just beat me to it, Steve! Aren't 'pints' frowned on in the Desert Kingdoms?
OP steve taylor 15 Jun 2014
In reply to Lankyman:

They might be, but it could be a pint of fruit juice I'm talking about Though in Steve Crowe's case it might have to be Nukey Brown!

 Steve Crowe Global Crag Moderator 15 Jun 2014
In reply to steve taylor:
While Saudi Arabia may not immediately spring to mind as an obvious climbing venue, the mountainous region of the Asir in the south west of the country actually offers excellent rockclimbing. There is a large international community in the Asir's main city, Khamis Mushayt, and a steadily growing number of climbers throughout the country, especially at the American bases.

The loosely formed Khamis Alpine Club will provide local route information as well as offering beginners' courses.
There are a fair number of different climbing areas in the Asir, though the most accessible lie to the east of the desert where an escarpment hundreds of kilometres in length runs from Jeddah in the north to the spectacular Tanomah National Park south of Tiaf and close to the border with Yemen.

The escarpment contains numerous 180-200m high, volcanic granite monoliths, with the most developed venue being the 200m Zor Rock at Wadi bin Hashbal about 40 minutes drive from Khamis. The Rock's excellent granite offers a variety of traditionally protected and bolted routes of all grades and climbing styles. More than 30 climbs have been recorded to date and a list of recommended slab routes would include The Deceptions (5.9), Sleepless Nights (5.1 0) and Sickle Moon (5.1 0). Great face climbing can be found on Just Good Friends and Aggravation (both 5.1 0). There are several superb cracklines, the best of which, Lion (5.9), follows a perfectly direct line from bottom to top of the monolith. Most development on the escarpment has taken place in the AI Habla area, 40 kilometres from Khamis but the huge length of this feature means that exploration is still very much in its infancy.

The Tanomah National Park is around 120 kilometres from Khamis towards the town of Tiaf. The huge rounded granite domes there are reminiscent of California's Sierra Nevada and Yosemite Valley. Two fine new lines have
recently been completed: Goat Herders' Nightmare (5.9), which follows the corner in the prominent book-shaped peak on the west side of the valley and Brand New Lime Green Tape (also 5.9), which climbs the previously unexplored free standing pillar just outside the town of Tanomah. The development of both areas described above is progressing rapidly, though currently exploration has barely scratched the surface and numerous major lines remain virgin. Now comes the bad news. Access to this part of the Middle East is almost impractical for the average rock jock. Unless you are working out there and have a valid Entry/Exit visa, permission to visit Saudi will only be granted to those with a very close relative resident in the country, or to a Muslim wishing to attend an important religious celebration.
INFO: Julian Fisher, High Magazine August 1995
Post edited at 10:52
OP steve taylor 15 Jun 2014
In reply to Steve Crowe:

It's a shame that it is so hard to get out here as there are limitless possibilities. The Zor Rock mentioned above is outstanding and has some of the cleanest, hard lines I've ever seen - anywhere. I'll bung some photos in my gallery in a couple of days.

Mind you, it's bloody hot (30+ degrees during the day) and the Khamis area is plagued by marauding troops of baboons. We were hassled over 2 days by a troop of 80 of them - they might have been simply curious, but we weren't willing to take the risk and backed off once they got too close in case they "ripped our faces off" according to a Saudi friend.

Looking forward to seeing the PDF Steve - thanks again.
 Steve Crowe Global Crag Moderator 15 Jun 2014
In reply to steve taylor:

"This weekend it was 30-35 degrees at Zor Rock (7000ft altitude), which is bearable if you can climb in the shade."


There's a chance of rain there on wednesday!


OP steve taylor 15 Jun 2014
In reply to Steve Crowe:

Oh - there was a bit of rain late afternoon on Friday, but nothing to stop you climbing. Apparently thunderstorms are common. Not so in Riyadh though - no rain from May to October.

We thought we'd actually found an oasis yesterday, but on closer inspection it was just a big, minging puddle.

I'm gradually finding out more and more about the place thanks to the internet. If you could fly here without any restrictions it really would be a massive climbing destination. The bouldering is like Joshua Tree, but much, much bigger. There are lots of massive granite lumps up to 200m in height, plus lots of other big crags that we haven't got to yet. Only one crags has had any significant development, so if you're into new routing the possibilities are endless.

 Steve Crowe Global Crag Moderator 15 Jun 2014
In reply to steve taylor:
I'm looking forward to my complementary copy of the new Saudi Sport Climbs. It could be a great winter destination.
Post edited at 14:16
OP steve taylor 15 Jun 2014
In reply to Steve Crowe:

Thanks Steve - the scan is very much appreciated.

A couple of us are planning to produce a guide, but it will only be useful to those who have work visas, unless the Saudi visa policy changes dramatically.
In reply to steve taylor:

Strange to relate, I never saw that issue - and would also be interesting in seeing it.

I worked in Saudi in the mid 80's and early 90's and managed to get a little bit of climbing done.

Whilst the eastern province is generally devoid of climbable rock (or what I thought of as climbable before spending 5 years in the Emirates and learned to handle loose stuff). I did however manage to find some decent bouldering in the middle of Dammam city - not too far from the Football stadium. There is a line of 5 - 15m high outcrops in what is now Al Murikabat Park -- however climbing will be strictly prohibited there as the park is designated for 'families' which in effect means women and children only!

I did visit the area near the cement works near Hoffuf, but the rock there is appalling.

I did a little bit of climbing in the wadis to the west of Riyadh, and also on the areas of granite that are located about 200km west of Riyadh along both old and new 'Jeddah' hihways.

None of my routes were recorded.
OP steve taylor 16 Jun 2014
In reply to Lord of Starkness:

There's been some bolting in Wadi Hanifah near the diplomatic quarter west of Riyadh - I guess that's where you mean. It's the most popular crag in KSA now, thanks to a quickly growing climbing scene based around a climbing wall in the British School.

We visited Umm Sarahah a few weeks ago, which is where you probably mean on the Jeddah highway. There's a couple of bolted routes (one of which features in this month's Climber magazine) and we plan to add some more climbs there once we get a couple of drills out here. There was also the prospect of a lot of clean trad lines too, which may have been done by yourself. Of course this will have to wait until the winter as it's heading towards 50deg now. We'll be recording everything that we do (some of the climbs near Riyadh are already on UKC) so that future expats/locals don't have the hassles that we have had finding anything. Also, check my gallery on here - I'll be adding photos as we visit new crags, you might see something you recognise.

The climbing in the SW of Saudi seems to be the best option. Unfortunately it's too far to drive for the weekend from Riyadh (~800-1000km). I'm slowly piecing together what has been done down there, but some of the lines we saw were world class by any measure.

Next time I'm going to Bahrain for the weekend I'll see if I can find the crag in Dammam you mention. I met a guy from Aramco who gave me info on the climbing near the cement works - I'll heed your warning.

If you remember any more details please email. Plus, contact me via your profile and I'll send the scan of the High article that Steve Crowe did for me.

In reply to steve taylor:

Aaah - Wadi Hanifah -- scene of many a Megamob MH3 run and boozy campout!

Another area worth looking at may be 'Hidden Valley'. From memory the rock there was a little less friable than the Hanifah stuff.

The little crags in Al Muraikabat Park, Dammam are easily found on Google Earth - What used to be a wasteland surrounded by building sites in the mid 80's and early 90's is nowadays a Families Only park!

I visited the Umm Sararah area a couple of times, and wished I'd owned some friends to protect the flaring cracks.

There are two granite 'domes' just outside Al Dawadami on the 'old' Jeddah road. The NE face of the northern one has an 'Etive' like face. I was on my own the day I visited it, so never actually climbed anything, but there are some excellent looking lines on superb granite. My contract ended about 2 weeks after I found it so never returned.

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