/ NEW ARTICLE: INTERVIEW: Steve McClure on Strawberries Onsight
Strawberries was first climbed by Ron Fawcett in 1980, and waited for seven years before it had its' first onsight ascent from Stefan Glowacz.
In this article, we bring you a bit of the history behind Strawberries and an interview with Steve on his ascent...
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=6412
odd there's no link to http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=589882&v=1#x7802358
" Conditions were way worse despite it looking the same 'weather' on paper, but humidity was through the roof."
Sounds bloody hard. When you think UK climbers are usually content to find a route dry, not just worry about atmospheric humidity. Further consider it as 7c - how many people onsight 7c while hanging around to sort out awkward pro ?
"Ron spent three days on it, climbing in yo-yo style, and eventually pre-placed his equipment from abseil and pre-clipped in his ropes before the actual ascent"
sorry to be a bit silly, but what does this last bit about pre-clipping his ropes actually mean? it sounds like an esoteric form of top-roping!
follow the link on the first post. it's explained in there.
So at the risk of opening the other can of worms...
AIUI, British adjectival grades are given for a (possibly hypothetical) onsight ascent.
So when people say Strawberries is E7 and "difficult to onsight", do they mean it's E7 because it's difficult to onsight, or that it's harder to onsight than other E7s ie it's harder than E7?
They mean it's E7. If it was harder than E7 to onsight it wouldn't be E7.
I still think of it as 7c+ as i think it would of had more onsights if it was only 7c.
only my opinion
Ah, okay. I wasn't sure if it was one of those cases where the system gets bent a bit by the fact that not many people are onsighting at that level...
JD - thanks!
I can't believe he didn't even do his shoes up.
I think that's an honest but considered interview. Excellent, thanks Steve and UKC.
Interesting that he doesn't even mention (perhaps doesn't even know about) the bit 'everyone else' seems to mention where the obvious hold in the LH crack turns out to be useless and the better hold is not at all obvious. I thought that was supposed to be why it was so hard to make a true onsight of. Or did I make all that up?
good to hear Steve mentioning the dichotomy of pegging routes :)
Elsewhere on the site
2012 saw the release of the beautiful first volume of definitive Yorkshire Gritstone climbing, produced by the YMC with Robin... Read more
The Kendal Mountain Festival 2014 proved once again to be a busy and inspiring four days of films, photos, music, art... Read more
I am Matthew Phillips, I'm nearly 14 and I was born without my right arm below the elbow. I started climbing at taster... Read more
Backpackers want an extremely liveable and lightweight tent at good price. MSR answers the call with the Elixir 2 tent and... Read more
The Women's Mountain Equipment Cho Oyu Jacket is the perfect choice for female mountaineers an explorers who... Read more