/ Sport Climbing Tips for Cheddar Gorge (or UK in General!)

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OutdoorGirl on 19 Jun 2014
Hello, visiting UK end July and looking for somewhere either Cheddar Gorge or equally "must do" in UK to climb. (arriving from Manchester, leaving from London) Appreciate any recommendations to get started - where to go, finding partner, guide, etc
Dandan82 - on 19 Jun 2014
In reply to OutdoorGirl:

If you do go to Cheddar gorge (which I can thoroughly recommend) make sure you have the appropriate public liability insurance (supplied by the BMC and certain other organisations, or arrange your own) and observe any climbing bans that are in force when you visit, its a bit of a hot topic at the moment.
Aside from that, have fun!
Morgan Woods - on 19 Jun 2014
In reply to OutdoorGirl:

Cheedale is very pleasant, although doesn't have much below 6c.
The Ex-Engineer - on 19 Jun 2014
In reply to OutdoorGirl: First, I need to warn you that 99% of UK sport climbing below f7a is crap compared to most locations around the world. Our trad climbing however is excellent and our bouldering fairly decent.

However, assuming that you are specifically after easy sport routes, the best location in the UK is Portland on the South Coast near Weymouth in Dorset. There is also some reasonable good easy crags in Yorkshire and Derbyshire which are close to Manchester.

For partners, posting on the forums here is as good a way as any.

However, if you are willing to hire a professional guide/instructor (150-200per day for someone who is a member of the Association of Mountaineering Instructor http://www.ami.org.uk/ ) you would not be limited to sport climbing and there are dozens of fantastic sea cliff and mountain crags to choose from.

Anyway, you should get plenty of advice (some of it probably conflicting) on this thread.


andrewmcleod - on 20 Jun 2014
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:

> However, if you are willing to hire a professional guide/instructor (150-200per day for someone who is a member of the Association of Mountaineering Instructor http://www.ami.org.uk/ ) you would not be limited to sport climbing and there are dozens of fantastic sea cliff and mountain crags to choose from.

You would then be limited to seconding/top roping, and would have paid a vast sum of money to do it.

There are (almost) no restrictions on climbing the north side of Cheddar.

A bit more information about the grades you climb, what you want to achieve etc would be useful?

You could always throw in a bit of DWS as well if you want to brave the British sea :P
Post edited at 01:01
dereke12000 - on 03 Jul 2014
In reply to OutdoorGirl:

I'd second Portland for Sport climbing for the sheer quantity, quality & variety. (But Cheddar and/or Trad not to be missed as well)

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