UKC

Any lakes lads been in the last week or so? (since ban was lifted?)

Whats the state of the pegs on Top Gear and Internal?

Cheers guys!

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=589587 - not much info.

Feel free to put loads of chalk on when you're there, I'm super keen. Let us know how it does in a westerly breeze too.

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

There's no pegs on Top Gear. The crux corner of TG will be dirty/dusty but the shield should be fine.

In reply to Bob:

I doubt this will be of interest to anyone as no one seems to climb in the lakes anymore.
Top gear is pretty dirty. Though does now have chalk on it. Am buggered if iam going to clean it as no one will go there again for a season or so.

Incidently, and look away now if you dont want to blow the onsight. Unless you want an exciting experience, take some small micro cams. Obvious slot which would protect a nasty massive fall making the dirty awkward moves to reach the sloping ledge.

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

We saw a couple of people climb it last year, and most of the other routes had seen traffic. We did a couple of e3's and an e2.
I know what you mean though, when you compare the levels of traffic to Wales or the Peak District it is very quiet.
How does Top Gear compare to GTX by the way?

In reply to Andrew Wilson:

only done top gear but would be e5 in wales. Guidebook should state that a crucial microcam is needed really....

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

I had the exciting experience! Got to the sloping ledge to find it was wet - had to hand traverse it rightwards for a way before I could get on to it.

The other E4s (Running on Empty & Boy Racer) are much more reasonable for those compared to soft Welsh grades

The "problem" if it is one, with Raven Threshthwaite is that the easiest route is a hard E2 so it becomes self limiting in that there's not that many interested in mountain routes these days and even fewer at that level so they go for the low hanging fruit. Even back in their heyday, the 1970s & 80s most Lakes mountain routes weren't "clean" in the sense that every hold and runner placement were obvious. Lack of traffic is only going to make them worse. It just needs people to climb with a soft brush and clean as much as they can whilst they climb.

In reply to Bob:

Why doesn't Raven get the attention and publicity that Dove does though?

In reply to Fiend:

Possibly the 3 star classic hard rock routes?
Even those are usually filthy though.

In reply to Andrew Wilson:

It's the Fast And Furious buttress that seems to get all the attention at Dove, and the entry level there is a lot higher than Raven.

In reply to Fiend:

There was a concerted effort to clean up North Buttress on Dove a couple of years ago. Goat Crag in Borrowdale also got the treatment. Maybe Raven Threshthwaite also needs it.

It's a steady walk to the crag apart from the last few hundred metres, you can fix an abseil at the top to save walking down (simply remove the gear after your last route) . All this and great routes in the modern style. What's not to like?

In reply to Bob:


The lack of bolts and boulder problems??

The reasons you gave are exactly why I am so keen to go back there, filth or not.

In reply to Fiend:
The boulders below seem to see get more action these days!
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=60721

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Cheers for the info all. Hopefully threads like this can help to spread the word and get some clean routes!

If anyone gets up there on GTX/Grand Prix, info welcomed.