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As there is another thread campaigning to stop smoking, I thought I'd start a 'smokers' thread.
Non smokers can never know that special moment, after you've pulled it all out on a pitch, and you sit down on that belay, bathed in satisfaction and happiness, and you light up that 'special' fag.
So what are the best 'smokes' you've enjoyed on a route?
I'll start with a few:
Top of Great Wall on Cloggy, after climbing it in one pitch.
After the last pitch of the Chandalle, Freney Pillar.
On the perfect bivi after the Grey Tower, Walker Spur.
Summit of Matterhorn after a pretty quick one day ascent of the NF.
Four weeks ago at the top of Fiesta los Biceps at Riglos.
Non smokers can never know that special moment, after you've pulled it all out on a pitch, and you sit down on that belay, bathed in satisfaction and happiness, and you light up that 'special' fag.
So what are the best 'smokes' you've enjoyed on a route?
I'll start with a few:
Top of Great Wall on Cloggy, after climbing it in one pitch.
After the last pitch of the Chandalle, Freney Pillar.
On the perfect bivi after the Grey Tower, Walker Spur.
Summit of Matterhorn after a pretty quick one day ascent of the NF.
Four weeks ago at the top of Fiesta los Biceps at Riglos.
In reply to Goucho:
Got to be Marlborough or Gitanes.
Accept no substitutes.
I've never quite understood why people have a fag at the top of a pitch. At the bottom to calm the nerves, quite understandable. Some sort of post coital thing? Which I've never understood either.
But then I've not got an addictive personality. OCD and ADD, no doubt about those.
Got to be Marlborough or Gitanes.
Accept no substitutes.
I've never quite understood why people have a fag at the top of a pitch. At the bottom to calm the nerves, quite understandable. Some sort of post coital thing? Which I've never understood either.
But then I've not got an addictive personality. OCD and ADD, no doubt about those.
In reply to pneame:
Didn't Terry King propose an alternative alpine grading system in the early 70's based on how many fags were required en-route?
> Got to be Marlborough or Gitanes.
> Accept no substitutes.
> I've never quite understood why people have a fag at the top of a pitch. At the bottom to calm the nerves, quite understandable. Some sort of post coital thing? Which I've never understood either.
Didn't Terry King propose an alternative alpine grading system in the early 70's based on how many fags were required en-route?
Post edited at 13:02
In reply to Goucho:
Too busy enjoying their health, no doubt.
This thread is stupid.
> Non smokers can never know that special moment
Too busy enjoying their health, no doubt.
This thread is stupid.
In reply to Goucho:
So long as you take your fag ends away and I'm not downwind you can poison yourself with whatever you like.
Smokers can never know that moment when you taste the grass in the fresh air cos their taste buds and snouts are buggered. I know what I'd prefer.
So long as you take your fag ends away and I'm not downwind you can poison yourself with whatever you like.
Smokers can never know that moment when you taste the grass in the fresh air cos their taste buds and snouts are buggered. I know what I'd prefer.
In reply to Removed User:
Why bother responding to it then?
> Too busy enjoying their health, no doubt.
> This thread is stupid.
Why bother responding to it then?
In reply to Goucho:
The cigar I'd saved and then shared with my partner after leading my first E1 multipitch (Gogarth) was pretty special.
The cigar I'd saved and then shared with my partner after leading my first E1 multipitch (Gogarth) was pretty special.
In reply to yarbles:
And here come the anti-smoking brigade, galloping over the hillside with their usual self righteous pronouncements, and a complete sense of humor bypass.
> So long as you take your fag ends away and I'm not downwind you can poison yourself with whatever you like.
> Smokers can never know that moment when you taste the grass in the fresh air cos their taste buds and snouts are buggered. I know what I'd prefer.
And here come the anti-smoking brigade, galloping over the hillside with their usual self righteous pronouncements, and a complete sense of humor bypass.
Post edited at 13:25
In reply to Goucho:
A shared silkcut while hiding in the crevasse to avoid gale force winds on top of the Old Man of Hoy at age 16 with darkness descending rapidly. Shortly followed by a desperate descent.
A shared silkcut while hiding in the crevasse to avoid gale force winds on top of the Old Man of Hoy at age 16 with darkness descending rapidly. Shortly followed by a desperate descent.
In reply to Goucho:
Lying on the top of Mont Blanc, completely relaxed with a couple of cigs, whilst all around were gasping for breath and staggering around!
Lying on the top of Mont Blanc, completely relaxed with a couple of cigs, whilst all around were gasping for breath and staggering around!
In reply to Goucho: back when I indulged in that filthy habit, mine would be the cave belay on the first/second pitch of Vector with the great view out over the estuary and a perfect little ledge for your baccy
In reply to Goucho:
Isn't that why you started the post? I did miss the humor though - where was that?
Isn't that why you started the post? I did miss the humor though - where was that?
In reply to Lusk:
Yes, I remember happily waltzing back down from the summit of Mont Blanc, puffing away on a delicious gauloise, (I think we'd just done the Cechinal Nominee on the Grande Pillar) and getting remonstrated by a pair wheezing their way up the tourist route on how smoking at altitude was ridiculous
> Lying on the top of Mont Blanc, completely relaxed with a couple of cigs, whilst all around were gasping for breath and staggering around!
Yes, I remember happily waltzing back down from the summit of Mont Blanc, puffing away on a delicious gauloise, (I think we'd just done the Cechinal Nominee on the Grande Pillar) and getting remonstrated by a pair wheezing their way up the tourist route on how smoking at altitude was ridiculous
Post edited at 13:37
In reply to yarbles:
You'd have to be a smoker.
But there are at least another 2 threads on here full of like minded anti-smokers for you to go and play with.
> Isn't that why you started the post? I did miss the humor though - where was that?
You'd have to be a smoker.
But there are at least another 2 threads on here full of like minded anti-smokers for you to go and play with.
Post edited at 13:38
In reply to Goucho:
There is something in the description of Forked Lightning Crack at Heptonstall, a Whillans route, along the lines of "it must be 'ard, it took him two fags".
> Didn't Terry King propose an alternative alpine grading system in the early 70's based on how many fags were required en-route?
There is something in the description of Forked Lightning Crack at Heptonstall, a Whillans route, along the lines of "it must be 'ard, it took him two fags".
In reply to Goucho:
The belay, after getting out of the basin on Orion direct! Utterly windless, the smoke rose as if indoors, a perfect day many years ago!
Rope of three on the Minus face after a 'substantial ' summer rockfall, the non smoker needed a fag too, to calm the nerves.
A mate produced a big fat joint from one of those metal cigar tubes after we pulled the abb ropes down in Corrie Fee. As we floated out, we met a well known group of Aberdonian climbers sitting at the fence who generously shared their bottle of sherry with us. ' Could've told you it wasnt in condition' they said...
The belay, after getting out of the basin on Orion direct! Utterly windless, the smoke rose as if indoors, a perfect day many years ago!
Rope of three on the Minus face after a 'substantial ' summer rockfall, the non smoker needed a fag too, to calm the nerves.
A mate produced a big fat joint from one of those metal cigar tubes after we pulled the abb ropes down in Corrie Fee. As we floated out, we met a well known group of Aberdonian climbers sitting at the fence who generously shared their bottle of sherry with us. ' Could've told you it wasnt in condition' they said...
In reply to Goucho:
as above the only thing I miss about smoking is the rolly at the top , "SAFE ",few deep breaths, "just gives us a minute.....". and the one at the bottom of a questionable lead. All geared up, tied in , boots tightened, on belay, bit of a look up. "er, I think I ll just have a rolly before I start ....."
as above the only thing I miss about smoking is the rolly at the top , "SAFE ",few deep breaths, "just gives us a minute.....". and the one at the bottom of a questionable lead. All geared up, tied in , boots tightened, on belay, bit of a look up. "er, I think I ll just have a rolly before I start ....."
In reply to Goucho:
Ex-smoker here, who generally can't stand the smell of smoke now, but I still cherish the memories of those post-route fags.
Top one is probably sheltering under a bivy boulder on the Aiguille du Tacul after a horrible descent from the summit involving lightning, steep soggy snow and a scary crevasse incident. My first Alpine route back in 1994. We got to the boulder just as the rain hit and savoured a soggy roll-up and a hot cup of black tea. Ahhhh... Brilliant.
Ex-smoker here, who generally can't stand the smell of smoke now, but I still cherish the memories of those post-route fags.
Top one is probably sheltering under a bivy boulder on the Aiguille du Tacul after a horrible descent from the summit involving lightning, steep soggy snow and a scary crevasse incident. My first Alpine route back in 1994. We got to the boulder just as the rain hit and savoured a soggy roll-up and a hot cup of black tea. Ahhhh... Brilliant.
Post edited at 14:10
In reply to Goucho:
>smoking at altitude was ridiculous
I seem to dimly remember that the reason that Al Rouse and the Burgess twins and others that my memory fails me on, retreated on Everest was because they'd run out of smokes.
>smoking at altitude was ridiculous
I seem to dimly remember that the reason that Al Rouse and the Burgess twins and others that my memory fails me on, retreated on Everest was because they'd run out of smokes.
In reply to pneame:
In one of the Everest books, 70s I think, in the Stores List at the back, there's an entry for something like 20,000 Rothman's!
In one of the Everest books, 70s I think, in the Stores List at the back, there's an entry for something like 20,000 Rothman's!
Post edited at 14:26
In reply to Lusk:
Only 20,000
> In one of the Everest books, 70s I think, in the Stores List at the back, there's an entry for something like 20,000 Rothman's!
Only 20,000
In reply to Goucho:
There's a great picture in the Don Whillians Memorial Hut of someone having a smoke on the belay of Valkyrie at the Roaches. It might be big Don himself, I don't know. They look pretty darn classy though just chilling out having a smoke whilst giving a body belay using a hemp rope. I don't smoke but that picture has always made me want to do a reenactment.
David
There's a great picture in the Don Whillians Memorial Hut of someone having a smoke on the belay of Valkyrie at the Roaches. It might be big Don himself, I don't know. They look pretty darn classy though just chilling out having a smoke whilst giving a body belay using a hemp rope. I don't smoke but that picture has always made me want to do a reenactment.
David
In reply to pneame:
Hmmm, I thought it was McInnes and potatoes...
> I seem to dimly remember that the reason that Al Rouse and the Burgess twins and others that my memory fails me on, retreated on Everest was because they'd run out of smokes.
Hmmm, I thought it was McInnes and potatoes...
In reply to David Kirsfelds:
I seem to recall a photo in one of the climbing mags many years ago of - I think it was Martin Boysen? - languidly and effortlessly soloing some desperate sandstone route, with a fag hanging nonchalantly out of the corner of his mouth.
> There's a great picture in the Don Whillians Memorial Hut of someone having a smoke on the belay of Valkyrie at the Roaches. It might be big Don himself, I don't know. They look pretty darn classy though just chilling out having a smoke whilst giving a body belay using a hemp rope. I don't smoke but that picture has always made me want to do a reenactment.
I seem to recall a photo in one of the climbing mags many years ago of - I think it was Martin Boysen? - languidly and effortlessly soloing some desperate sandstone route, with a fag hanging nonchalantly out of the corner of his mouth.
In reply to Goucho:
Ha, ha. Classic. Pretty much the same happened to me. Arrived at the summit of MB from the Italian side to find about 10 people in down jackets and woolly hats clearly exhausted and barely able to breath, bear in mind this was in high summer and i was wearing a wife-beater top... It was that hot.
I skinned up my summit fag and could see the incredulous faces on these people not quite being able to comprehend, and when asking them if they had a light they would proudly assert "I don't smoke!!!". I didn't even need a lighter from them, but the opportunity to outrage people was just too good to miss...
When i was in Denali i was the guy who "would never make it", "do you see him smoking all the time?", "he'll buckle when he gets to altitude", etc. Couple of weeks later and people was incredulous about how "that guy" had summited twice in good time, and them, who had been training for months, running daily, non-smoking, eating tofu and doing yoga while burning incense had had to turn back at 19,000ft.
During my time there my camp became somewhat like Denali's crack den. After a week or so a good number of Rangers and not a few guides and climbers started trickling into my camp one by one sneaking not to be seen by their colleagues to have one of my smokes. A healthy trade market ensued, and for it i was given from Jaegermeister or vodka to books, food and weed... I was quite pleased the lifestyle gym brigade hadn't yet taken over the mountain.
> (In reply to Lusk)
> [...]
>
> Yes, I remember happily waltzing back down from the summit of Mont Blanc, puffing away on a delicious gauloise, (I think we'd just done the Cechinal Nominee on the Grande Pillar) and getting remonstrated by a pair wheezing their way up the tourist route on how smoking at altitude was ridiculous
> [...]
>
> Yes, I remember happily waltzing back down from the summit of Mont Blanc, puffing away on a delicious gauloise, (I think we'd just done the Cechinal Nominee on the Grande Pillar) and getting remonstrated by a pair wheezing their way up the tourist route on how smoking at altitude was ridiculous
Ha, ha. Classic. Pretty much the same happened to me. Arrived at the summit of MB from the Italian side to find about 10 people in down jackets and woolly hats clearly exhausted and barely able to breath, bear in mind this was in high summer and i was wearing a wife-beater top... It was that hot.
I skinned up my summit fag and could see the incredulous faces on these people not quite being able to comprehend, and when asking them if they had a light they would proudly assert "I don't smoke!!!". I didn't even need a lighter from them, but the opportunity to outrage people was just too good to miss...
When i was in Denali i was the guy who "would never make it", "do you see him smoking all the time?", "he'll buckle when he gets to altitude", etc. Couple of weeks later and people was incredulous about how "that guy" had summited twice in good time, and them, who had been training for months, running daily, non-smoking, eating tofu and doing yoga while burning incense had had to turn back at 19,000ft.
During my time there my camp became somewhat like Denali's crack den. After a week or so a good number of Rangers and not a few guides and climbers started trickling into my camp one by one sneaking not to be seen by their colleagues to have one of my smokes. A healthy trade market ensued, and for it i was given from Jaegermeister or vodka to books, food and weed... I was quite pleased the lifestyle gym brigade hadn't yet taken over the mountain.
In reply to Mr Lopez:
What people don't realise, is that in order to smoke 20 fags a day for almost forty years, and still perform well physically - especially at altitude - requires a seriously good pair of lungs
Wasn't there some research done in the past (could well be seriously dodgy research funded by Phillip Morris), that suggested that smokers might well perform better at altitude than non smokers, due to the fact that their VO2 max was naturally used to a lower level of C02, or something along those lines?
What people don't realise, is that in order to smoke 20 fags a day for almost forty years, and still perform well physically - especially at altitude - requires a seriously good pair of lungs
Wasn't there some research done in the past (could well be seriously dodgy research funded by Phillip Morris), that suggested that smokers might well perform better at altitude than non smokers, due to the fact that their VO2 max was naturally used to a lower level of C02, or something along those lines?
In reply to Mr Lopez:
I remember being on the Ben one winter, and after our climb, headed to the observatory, where there were lots of people on the summit. My mate - who was known as Beagle, due to the fact he was game for any kind of chemical experiment - started skinning up a spliff.
The look on peoples faces was priceless as we sat there happily smoking away.
I remember being on the Ben one winter, and after our climb, headed to the observatory, where there were lots of people on the summit. My mate - who was known as Beagle, due to the fact he was game for any kind of chemical experiment - started skinning up a spliff.
The look on peoples faces was priceless as we sat there happily smoking away.
In reply to Goucho:
In the Dolomites on the Schubert Route on Piz Ciavezes. Two mates doing the Abram in parallel. It started to rain and we all thought of abbing off. The guys on the Abram dashed down straight away. Me: 'hang on I'll just have a quick fag', rolled up and chilled for five minutes by which time the other two had already abbed down 3 pitches and the rain had failed to set in and the sun came out again. Cue 'bastards!' drifting up from below as we continued to the top in smug mode which lasted a good 48hrs.
In the Dolomites on the Schubert Route on Piz Ciavezes. Two mates doing the Abram in parallel. It started to rain and we all thought of abbing off. The guys on the Abram dashed down straight away. Me: 'hang on I'll just have a quick fag', rolled up and chilled for five minutes by which time the other two had already abbed down 3 pitches and the rain had failed to set in and the sun came out again. Cue 'bastards!' drifting up from below as we continued to the top in smug mode which lasted a good 48hrs.
In reply to Goucho:
Ha, ha, ha... Precisely.
I put it down to being accustomed to the suffering of trundling on while being short of breath. More of a psychological advantage really.
Smokers are well used to that feeling of not getting quite enough air, unlike people with little high altitude experience that can taste the grass in the fresh air cos their taste buds and snouts aren't buggered, as well as regularly going for 20k runs with a mate without breaking a sweat and having a conversation throughout (seriously, how can people do that? Is it a mutation like the babies who can drink and breathe at the same time?).
Other than anecdotal 'evidence' (a paragraph in Twight's Extreme Alpinism spring to mind, where he talks about a couple of unhealthy smokers with no training summiting Everest where some gym warriors bailed) there have been a number of studies that seem to show that smokers have an advantage with regards altitude and hypoxia, as long as they don't smoke while at altitude. I'll see if i can find them.
> (In reply to Mr Lopez)
>
> What people don't realise, is that in order to smoke 20 fags a day for almost forty years, and still perform well physically - especially at altitude - requires a seriously good pair of lungs
>
> What people don't realise, is that in order to smoke 20 fags a day for almost forty years, and still perform well physically - especially at altitude - requires a seriously good pair of lungs
Ha, ha, ha... Precisely.
I put it down to being accustomed to the suffering of trundling on while being short of breath. More of a psychological advantage really.
Smokers are well used to that feeling of not getting quite enough air, unlike people with little high altitude experience that can taste the grass in the fresh air cos their taste buds and snouts aren't buggered, as well as regularly going for 20k runs with a mate without breaking a sweat and having a conversation throughout (seriously, how can people do that? Is it a mutation like the babies who can drink and breathe at the same time?).
Other than anecdotal 'evidence' (a paragraph in Twight's Extreme Alpinism spring to mind, where he talks about a couple of unhealthy smokers with no training summiting Everest where some gym warriors bailed) there have been a number of studies that seem to show that smokers have an advantage with regards altitude and hypoxia, as long as they don't smoke while at altitude. I'll see if i can find them.
In reply to Goucho:
Great Harry my 1st VS lead, topped out shouted for joy then sparked up..
And i dont care if iam surrounded by non-smokers its as much their choice as mine to either move away or not, also when the midgies are swarming my climbing partners stand next to me to get some relief.
Great Harry my 1st VS lead, topped out shouted for joy then sparked up..
And i dont care if iam surrounded by non-smokers its as much their choice as mine to either move away or not, also when the midgies are swarming my climbing partners stand next to me to get some relief.
Post edited at 16:19
In reply to mrdigitaljedi:
Yes, it's amazing how you can become a non smokers best friend, when you introduce midgies into the mix
> Great Harry my 1st VS lead, topped out shouted for joy then sparked up..
> And i dont care if iam surrounded by non-smokers its as much their choice as mine to either move away or not, also when the midgies are swarming my climbing partners stand next to me to get some relief.
Yes, it's amazing how you can become a non smokers best friend, when you introduce midgies into the mix
In reply to Goucho:
The best fag was my very last fag a month ago, and now I enjoy fresh air and the welcome knowledge that my lungs are slowly starting to work again. Fingers crossed I haven't done myself to much harm over the years. Life is short, life is precious. I also pitty the fools and their grey complection as they are slowly killing themselves deep in the knowledge that they could get run over by a bus tomorrow or that they will give up soon but not just yet as they aren't ready right now. Watch two people die from lung cancer my friend and you will realise that this post is bullshit and you are being a dick head? In the politest possible way.
The best fag was my very last fag a month ago, and now I enjoy fresh air and the welcome knowledge that my lungs are slowly starting to work again. Fingers crossed I haven't done myself to much harm over the years. Life is short, life is precious. I also pitty the fools and their grey complection as they are slowly killing themselves deep in the knowledge that they could get run over by a bus tomorrow or that they will give up soon but not just yet as they aren't ready right now. Watch two people die from lung cancer my friend and you will realise that this post is bullshit and you are being a dick head? In the politest possible way.
Post edited at 16:35
In reply to Paul R:
Oh god, I am so sorry if this thread has offended your sensibilities. And thank you so much for pointing out the obvious errors in its concept.
It is thanks to enlightened visionaries like you, that the world is a better place.
> The best fag was my very last fag a month ago, and now I enjoy fresh air and the welcome knowledge that my lungs are slowly starting to work again. Fingers crossed I haven't done myself to much harm over the years. Life is short, life is precious. I also pitty the fools and their grey complection as they are slowly killing themselves deep in the knowledge that they could get run over by a bus tomorrow or that they will give up soon but not just yet as they aren't ready right now. Watch two people die from lung cancer my friend and you will realise that this post is bullshit and you are a being dick head? In the politest possible way.
Oh god, I am so sorry if this thread has offended your sensibilities. And thank you so much for pointing out the obvious errors in its concept.
It is thanks to enlightened visionaries like you, that the world is a better place.
In reply to jon:
I know, it's been a real test of stamina keeping a straight face.
I love the anti-smoking brigade, quicker to wind up than a clockwork mouse
> And you were on such a roll too...
I know, it's been a real test of stamina keeping a straight face.
I love the anti-smoking brigade, quicker to wind up than a clockwork mouse
In reply to Mr Lopez:
I also dimly recall that the other aspect to Himalayan training is to drink quite heavily - enough to ensure that you wake up nauseated most mornings. The ability to function like this is much more important than fitness.
You'd want to be doing oxygen-free ascents if you are going to smoke at altitude.
> Other than anecdotal 'evidence' (a paragraph in Twight's Extreme Alpinism spring to mind, where he talks about a couple of unhealthy smokers with no training summiting Everest where some gym warriors bailed) there have been a number of studies that seem to show that smokers have an advantage with regards altitude and hypoxia, as long as they don't smoke while at altitude. I'll see if i can find them.
I also dimly recall that the other aspect to Himalayan training is to drink quite heavily - enough to ensure that you wake up nauseated most mornings. The ability to function like this is much more important than fitness.
You'd want to be doing oxygen-free ascents if you are going to smoke at altitude.
In reply to Goucho:
Apart from non smokers who are ex smokers.
And I guess non smokers could know that moment if they took it up...
> Non smokers can never know that special moment, after you've pulled it all out on a pitch, and you sit down on that belay, bathed in satisfaction and happiness, and you light up that 'special' fag.
Apart from non smokers who are ex smokers.
And I guess non smokers could know that moment if they took it up...
In reply to pneame:
I could believe that. The head busting feeling at altitude is not far off that of your bog standard massive hangover mk1. If you can function while nursing the hangover of the century then you are certainly Himalayan material.
> (In reply to Mr Lopez)
>
> [...]
>
> I also dimly recall that the other aspect to Himalayan training is to drink quite heavily - enough to ensure that you wake up nauseated most mornings. The ability to function like this is much more important than fitness.
>
> [...]
>
> I also dimly recall that the other aspect to Himalayan training is to drink quite heavily - enough to ensure that you wake up nauseated most mornings. The ability to function like this is much more important than fitness.
I could believe that. The head busting feeling at altitude is not far off that of your bog standard massive hangover mk1. If you can function while nursing the hangover of the century then you are certainly Himalayan material.
In reply to David Kirsfelds:
The belay flake is a great place for that lovely belay smoke!
My all time favourite would have to be rolling and smoking a fag whilst on a belay on Orion face in about 1988-89....one of those great moments after a long day and just one pitch to go..
> There's a great picture in the Don Whillians Memorial Hut of someone having a smoke on the belay of Valkyrie at the Roaches. It might be big Don himself, I don't know. They look pretty darn classy though just chilling out having a smoke whilst giving a body belay using a hemp rope. I don't smoke but that picture has always made me want to do a reenactment.
> David
The belay flake is a great place for that lovely belay smoke!
My all time favourite would have to be rolling and smoking a fag whilst on a belay on Orion face in about 1988-89....one of those great moments after a long day and just one pitch to go..
In reply to Goucho:
I have fond memories of smoking half a softpack of Marlboro on the belay ledge of Debauchery plucking up the courage to lead the second pitch. Another time at Millstone we were choking for a fag and ended up passing round a dowt we'd found on the ground. My mate Jim turned up wae fags and we got right in about them. Except Martin, who'd decided he preferred the dowt!
I have fond memories of smoking half a softpack of Marlboro on the belay ledge of Debauchery plucking up the courage to lead the second pitch. Another time at Millstone we were choking for a fag and ended up passing round a dowt we'd found on the ground. My mate Jim turned up wae fags and we got right in about them. Except Martin, who'd decided he preferred the dowt!
In reply to Goucho:
a solo of zero gully, above the crux, axes in, clipped in, rolled a fag but then I got really dizzy, headrush etc and spent a good half hour getting myself together before I could carry on and finish the route!
a solo of zero gully, above the crux, axes in, clipped in, rolled a fag but then I got really dizzy, headrush etc and spent a good half hour getting myself together before I could carry on and finish the route!
In reply to Goucho:
There are some grumpy sods out there aren't there
One of the best has to be four of us topping out Crowberry Gully, full winter conditions in february and standing in pure blue sunshine, not a breath of wind, minus 20 C, lighting all four roll ups off one match and watching the match burn to nothing as we soaked up the feeling. Must have been back in about '85.
Ditto top of Aiguille D'Argentiere one new year.
There are some grumpy sods out there aren't there
One of the best has to be four of us topping out Crowberry Gully, full winter conditions in february and standing in pure blue sunshine, not a breath of wind, minus 20 C, lighting all four roll ups off one match and watching the match burn to nothing as we soaked up the feeling. Must have been back in about '85.
Ditto top of Aiguille D'Argentiere one new year.
In reply to ashtond6:
I take an empty chewing gum pot with me and mine go in there. On the way home it goes into a bin, along with other detritus I pick up on behalf of others. Biggest haul so far is a half-full bin bag, with used disposable barbecues (3) and empty water bottles (27).
I take an empty chewing gum pot with me and mine go in there. On the way home it goes into a bin, along with other detritus I pick up on behalf of others. Biggest haul so far is a half-full bin bag, with used disposable barbecues (3) and empty water bottles (27).
In reply to Goucho:
Many years ago on Limited Edition at Hodge I climbed the first crux and arrived at a narrow in balance ledge below the second slightly easier crux. Anxious not to blow my first ever E4, I called on a passer by throw me my cigs. Suitably relaxed I proceeded to complete the route. Belay fags are all well and good but the hard core spark up mid pitch.
Many years ago on Limited Edition at Hodge I climbed the first crux and arrived at a narrow in balance ledge below the second slightly easier crux. Anxious not to blow my first ever E4, I called on a passer by throw me my cigs. Suitably relaxed I proceeded to complete the route. Belay fags are all well and good but the hard core spark up mid pitch.
In reply to Goucho:
From my blog;
It was my 28 th birthday, and Clarkie had promised to drag me up one of the classic lines of the cliff; “Climbers Club ordinary” (VS 4c), as my birthday present. We did the first two pitches without any undue problems, Clarkie leading of course. We were sat in the niche sorting the ropes out, when, as it often does in early January, it pissed down with rain.
The thing was though, where we were sat was in the lee of the main face, and under a small overhang. The rain may have been howling down, but we were snug as bugs. “Let’s wait here for a while, see if it clears.”
So that’s what we did, we rolled up smokes, sat in the niche and watched the rain pour down into the valley below. It was one of the most sublime moments of my life. My only worry was that Clarkie, being a clumsy bastard, who rolls the worlds loosest rollies, would set fire to our ropes.
After half an hour or so the rain stopped, and Clarkie led up the final pitch. I was entranced by it all, I may have even bought him a pint later. Clarkie later remarked; Of course we were stupid, we should have shot up the final crack before it got soaked and slippery."
From my blog;
It was my 28 th birthday, and Clarkie had promised to drag me up one of the classic lines of the cliff; “Climbers Club ordinary” (VS 4c), as my birthday present. We did the first two pitches without any undue problems, Clarkie leading of course. We were sat in the niche sorting the ropes out, when, as it often does in early January, it pissed down with rain.
The thing was though, where we were sat was in the lee of the main face, and under a small overhang. The rain may have been howling down, but we were snug as bugs. “Let’s wait here for a while, see if it clears.”
So that’s what we did, we rolled up smokes, sat in the niche and watched the rain pour down into the valley below. It was one of the most sublime moments of my life. My only worry was that Clarkie, being a clumsy bastard, who rolls the worlds loosest rollies, would set fire to our ropes.
After half an hour or so the rain stopped, and Clarkie led up the final pitch. I was entranced by it all, I may have even bought him a pint later. Clarkie later remarked; Of course we were stupid, we should have shot up the final crack before it got soaked and slippery."
Post edited at 22:32
In reply to Goucho:
No idea; but the instructors in the ZA Army used to suggest that smokers only packed it in after basic training to make it easier for themselves.
> Wasn't there some research done in the past (could well be seriously dodgy research funded by Phillip Morris), that suggested that smokers might well perform better at altitude than non smokers, due to the fact that their VO2 max was naturally used to a lower level of C02, or something along those lines?
No idea; but the instructors in the ZA Army used to suggest that smokers only packed it in after basic training to make it easier for themselves.
In reply to Goucho:
I love fags. Love the smell, the taste, rolling them up, the works, I love it. Anyway, I gave up about 4 years ago, maybe still have one or two a year. I'd rather start smoking again though than be a sanctimonious tit about it.
Most memorable for me would be a post giving up fag after doing the Skye Ridge. Bought a pack from the Slig' along with the obligatory single malts, beers, etc. Smoked one then binned the rest. Awesome fag that.
The other would be on the summit of Ilinizas in Ecuador, about 5000m or so; almost certainly a Marlboro Red - king of fags. Some German bloke scrounged one off me too, cheeky bastard.
I love fags. Love the smell, the taste, rolling them up, the works, I love it. Anyway, I gave up about 4 years ago, maybe still have one or two a year. I'd rather start smoking again though than be a sanctimonious tit about it.
Most memorable for me would be a post giving up fag after doing the Skye Ridge. Bought a pack from the Slig' along with the obligatory single malts, beers, etc. Smoked one then binned the rest. Awesome fag that.
The other would be on the summit of Ilinizas in Ecuador, about 5000m or so; almost certainly a Marlboro Red - king of fags. Some German bloke scrounged one off me too, cheeky bastard.
In reply to Paul R:
Really? Fcuk me, I must be doing something wrong then in spite of being very active. I quit 8 months ago and quite frankly can't see any massive difference from when I smoked except the fact that when my belay partner lights up I now watch enviously...
Stop pontificating and get the hell on with your life bud. You made your decision now let others make theirs.
(By the way I've seen two family members go to the big C, not pleasant but they knew there were risks and accepted them.)
Really? Fcuk me, I must be doing something wrong then in spite of being very active. I quit 8 months ago and quite frankly can't see any massive difference from when I smoked except the fact that when my belay partner lights up I now watch enviously...
Stop pontificating and get the hell on with your life bud. You made your decision now let others make theirs.
(By the way I've seen two family members go to the big C, not pleasant but they knew there were risks and accepted them.)
In reply to Goucho:
Didn't Fawcett have a cigar in the bottom of his chalk bag for post route smoking?
Fairly sure it's mentioned in 'Fawcett on Rock'.
Didn't Fawcett have a cigar in the bottom of his chalk bag for post route smoking?
Fairly sure it's mentioned in 'Fawcett on Rock'.
In reply to Goucho:
Good thread, enjoying it, thanks.
Meanwhile Kamchatka's volcanoes are smoking away:
http://www.moscowtopnews.com/?area=postView&id=1414
Good thread, enjoying it, thanks.
Meanwhile Kamchatka's volcanoes are smoking away:
http://www.moscowtopnews.com/?area=postView&id=1414
In reply to Goucho:
Ahhhh I remember the days when I used to relieve my nicotine withdrawls and convince myself I was enjoying the smoke. ..... Happy days
Ahhhh I remember the days when I used to relieve my nicotine withdrawls and convince myself I was enjoying the smoke. ..... Happy days
In reply to Goucho:
There is a tiny gain in VO2 max, I believe, which would be detectable as a difference in the 'fitness' of a smoking/non-smoking couch potato.
> (In reply to Mr Lopez)
>
> What people don't realise, is that in order to smoke 20 fags a day for almost forty years, and still perform well physically - especially at altitude - requires a seriously good pair of lungs
>
> Wasn't there some research done in the past (could well be seriously dodgy research funded by Phillip Morris), that suggested that smokers might well perform better at altitude than non smokers, due to the fact that their VO2 max was naturally used to a lower level of C02, or something along those lines?
>
> What people don't realise, is that in order to smoke 20 fags a day for almost forty years, and still perform well physically - especially at altitude - requires a seriously good pair of lungs
>
> Wasn't there some research done in the past (could well be seriously dodgy research funded by Phillip Morris), that suggested that smokers might well perform better at altitude than non smokers, due to the fact that their VO2 max was naturally used to a lower level of C02, or something along those lines?
There is a tiny gain in VO2 max, I believe, which would be detectable as a difference in the 'fitness' of a smoking/non-smoking couch potato.
Post edited at 07:38
In reply to Goucho:
I know. The anti-slavery brigade are just as bad.
> (In reply to jon)
>
> [...]
>
> I know, it's been a real test of stamina keeping a straight face.
>
> I love the anti-smoking brigade, quicker to wind up than a clockwork mouse
>
> [...]
>
> I know, it's been a real test of stamina keeping a straight face.
>
> I love the anti-smoking brigade, quicker to wind up than a clockwork mouse
I know. The anti-slavery brigade are just as bad.
In reply to Firestarter:
Excellent. I wonder what percentage of the climbing population you represent?
> (In reply to ashtond6)
>
> I take an empty chewing gum pot with me and mine go in there. On the way home it goes into a bin, along with other detritus I pick up on behalf of others. Biggest haul so far is a half-full bin bag, with used disposable barbecues (3) and empty water bottles (27).
>
> I take an empty chewing gum pot with me and mine go in there. On the way home it goes into a bin, along with other detritus I pick up on behalf of others. Biggest haul so far is a half-full bin bag, with used disposable barbecues (3) and empty water bottles (27).
Excellent. I wonder what percentage of the climbing population you represent?
In reply to Goucho:
Some years ago i was keeping an aussie mate company while he scaled the highest peaks in england scotland wales and Ireland(not as a challenge mind you - we managed a few months between each one). On Scafell pike we encountered the usual assortment of walkers. one small party turned out to be German and we chatted pleasantly whilst we headed to the cairn. At the top they produced a bag of apples to hand round, announcing ' german tradition'!. My mate proceeded to roll up one of his 'special' cigarettes which he then offered round declaring it to be 'an Aussie tradition mate'! Not one of the germans accepted his kind offer.
Some years ago i was keeping an aussie mate company while he scaled the highest peaks in england scotland wales and Ireland(not as a challenge mind you - we managed a few months between each one). On Scafell pike we encountered the usual assortment of walkers. one small party turned out to be German and we chatted pleasantly whilst we headed to the cairn. At the top they produced a bag of apples to hand round, announcing ' german tradition'!. My mate proceeded to roll up one of his 'special' cigarettes which he then offered round declaring it to be 'an Aussie tradition mate'! Not one of the germans accepted his kind offer.
In reply to FactorXXX:
He had it after doing his 100 extreme grit solos in a day - that must have been a good smoke!
> (In reply to Goucho)
>
> Didn't Fawcett have a cigar in the bottom of his chalk bag for post route smoking?
> Fairly sure it's mentioned in 'Fawcett on Rock'.
>
> Didn't Fawcett have a cigar in the bottom of his chalk bag for post route smoking?
> Fairly sure it's mentioned in 'Fawcett on Rock'.
He had it after doing his 100 extreme grit solos in a day - that must have been a good smoke!
In reply to Goucho:
I haven't smoked for years but my regular climbing partner did until fairly recently (are you reading Dave?). He had a very annoying habit of burning me off on during a walk in and then waiting, whilst smoking, for me to catch up. Then take off again.
The best fag experience for him (I think) was on the Papillons Arete. He'd led a pitch and I was following ... and found a roll up sitting on a very small ledge. I arrived at the belay to find a very grumpy climbing partner who had "just dropped my last fag". His look and improved demeanour when I removed it from behind my ear was priceless.
I haven't smoked for years but my regular climbing partner did until fairly recently (are you reading Dave?). He had a very annoying habit of burning me off on during a walk in and then waiting, whilst smoking, for me to catch up. Then take off again.
The best fag experience for him (I think) was on the Papillons Arete. He'd led a pitch and I was following ... and found a roll up sitting on a very small ledge. I arrived at the belay to find a very grumpy climbing partner who had "just dropped my last fag". His look and improved demeanour when I removed it from behind my ear was priceless.
In reply to Goucho:
Finding a perfect little ledge for rolling up, then enjoying a 3 skinner of "00" on the hanging belay on the nose of Aplomb before launching up Sirplum.
Finding a perfect little ledge for rolling up, then enjoying a 3 skinner of "00" on the hanging belay on the nose of Aplomb before launching up Sirplum.
In reply to Goucho:
Well maybe that's a bit hasty. Perhaps it's not complete lack of sense of humour. Maybe many of them can laugh about lots of other stuff, but just don't find anything funny about smoking in particular. Maybe they simply think smokers smell disgusting and it makes them nauseous to be anywhere near them.
> And here come the anti-smoking brigade, galloping over the hillside with their usual self righteous pronouncements, and a complete sense of humor bypass.
Well maybe that's a bit hasty. Perhaps it's not complete lack of sense of humour. Maybe many of them can laugh about lots of other stuff, but just don't find anything funny about smoking in particular. Maybe they simply think smokers smell disgusting and it makes them nauseous to be anywhere near them.
In reply to Goucho:
Haven't smoked for years, and can't stand the thought of it nowadays but had a great smoking related moment once on Dow Crag. Jon and I had done that single pitch HVS that joins Eliminate A in the little cave before the traverse out left and found ourselves in a bit of a traffic jam, so we settled down in the cave for a quick roll up each while we waited. We found we only had one rizla left and, even worse, Jon dropped it and it floated down and out of sight. A full two minutes later and it floated back up into the cave as if by magic! That single shared roll up tasted pretty good after that.
Haven't smoked for years, and can't stand the thought of it nowadays but had a great smoking related moment once on Dow Crag. Jon and I had done that single pitch HVS that joins Eliminate A in the little cave before the traverse out left and found ourselves in a bit of a traffic jam, so we settled down in the cave for a quick roll up each while we waited. We found we only had one rizla left and, even worse, Jon dropped it and it floated down and out of sight. A full two minutes later and it floated back up into the cave as if by magic! That single shared roll up tasted pretty good after that.
In reply to bpmclimb:
Isn't smoking great? Not only it tastes good, it's pleasurable, and helps immortalise great moments, but it also serves as a natural repellent for people like that to stay well the hell away from you. I'll have 20 Bensons please waiter!!!
> (In reply to Goucho)
>
> [...]
>
> Maybe many of them can laugh about lots of other stuff, but just don't find anything funny about smoking in particular. Maybe they simply think smokers smell disgusting and it makes them nauseous to be anywhere near them.
>
> [...]
>
> Maybe many of them can laugh about lots of other stuff, but just don't find anything funny about smoking in particular. Maybe they simply think smokers smell disgusting and it makes them nauseous to be anywhere near them.
Isn't smoking great? Not only it tastes good, it's pleasurable, and helps immortalise great moments, but it also serves as a natural repellent for people like that to stay well the hell away from you. I'll have 20 Bensons please waiter!!!
In reply to Goucho:
This (not taken by me) is my favourite hill photograph of any outing I've been on - it's of my Skye pal Chris Tyler on the day in 2004 when we climbed the In Pinn. A real Condor Moment (even though Chris was having a fag rather than a pipe):
https://www.flickr.com/photos/warbeck/25421085/in/set-578984
This (not taken by me) is my favourite hill photograph of any outing I've been on - it's of my Skye pal Chris Tyler on the day in 2004 when we climbed the In Pinn. A real Condor Moment (even though Chris was having a fag rather than a pipe):
https://www.flickr.com/photos/warbeck/25421085/in/set-578984
In reply to Mr Lopez:
I'll have 20 Bensons please waiter!!!
EWWH! Benny Hedgehogs. Only the committed smoker can get threw a whole box of those beasts. Always felt like a petrochemical works emptying its tanks in my mouth.
D
I'll have 20 Bensons please waiter!!!
EWWH! Benny Hedgehogs. Only the committed smoker can get threw a whole box of those beasts. Always felt like a petrochemical works emptying its tanks in my mouth.
D
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