UKC

The other day I went to Harland Edge looking for a bit of quiet mid grabe bouldering and missed all the boulders by walking in a bit further North than I should have.

I did find some nice boulders further west than the ones in the book and spent a few hours making up problems. I'd quite like to log these so does anyone know the names of the boulders / problems?

In reply to duchessofmalfi:
It wasn't rabbit warren was it? A prominent quarried square cut bay and a tasty slab would identify this spot. Harland also has some bits mentioned in the BMC guide that are not in the rockfax guide, described as 'the far end' it merits a paragraph with 5 named problems and Harland's only route, the underwhelming 'who pays the quarryman'. Harland is 5 minutes from my front door and I still haven't got round to doing it yet!

In reply to DerwentDiluted:

Sounds more like Harland Edge far west. The following is my info on the western stuff:


Finally, The Distant Boulder, about 200m further and over half a kilometer of very rough terrain from The Middle Group, looks merely Ok but turns out to be a real gem (the main problems should really have been given numbers). It has delightfully rough rock and a good range of low grade problems. Well worth a visit. It can be more sensibly combined with a visit to Rabbit Warren as the quickest approach is from the west, but again do not take short cuts across the SSI; follow a good path along the wall bounding Bunker’s Hill Wood to the scarp below the cumulus of Hob Hurst’s House and traverse the base of the scarp, on sheep paths, in a SE direction.

15b A Couple of Yards V0 5a possible V1 5b**
The middle of the fabulous right side wall. Head up and left via juggy breaks to a stretch at the top.
V0 5a*.Finishing right is easier
15c Long Arm V1 5b possible V2 5c*
The arete to the left on its right side all the way is reachy.
U9 4c The arete starting on its right and finishing left.
15d Short Weekend V0 5a possible U9 5a
The wall just left of the arete.
U9 4c* The blunt Rib left again on good holds.
V0+5b Pockets right of the undercut section.

To the left the wall is deeply undercut giving scope to some aimless harder problems with potential for even harder sit starts. Easier problems are left again:
V0 5a Pockets immediately on the left edge of the undercut section
U7 4b The feint groove just left.
Invisible Arete V1 5c* The arete from a sitter is great fun (good enough to make the crag author curse for missing it!)
U9 5a The dirty wall left of the left arete to an awkward top.

In reply to duchessofmalfi:

Yes, Harland Edge far west I think. There's some fantastic bouldering up on Matlock Moor, that gets surprisingly little attention. I used to go regularly after the office when working in Matlock. It was always a bit of a heather wack to get to the boulders though.

In reply to DannyC:
Where exactly? Moving into the area shortly and always looking for new venues?

In reply to oldcheese:

Directions are in the post I made above (including from Rabbit Warren) and included in the Froggatt Guide. For anyone visiting, please follow approach descriptions and take care to avoid the area in front of the crag. We only got access with CRoW and don't want to lose it again by people stupidly taking short cuts (across what is in any case a bog)

In reply to Offwidth:
I was asking DannyC about the bouldering he mentioned on Matlock moor. Do you know where it is being all guide book writery and stuff. Saw Lynne recently but no you? Injured?

In reply to oldcheese:

Soz, reading too quickly I missed the MM bit. Im not sure I know what he means unless its Hurker Wood. Good guess btw: recoving from injury.

In reply to oldcheese:

Apologies, my mistake. Meant Beeley (not Matlock) Moor.