/ Information on climbing round the Grimsel Pass, Switzerland.
Heading off for a weeks trip first week of August and considering the Grimsel Pass area in Switzerland (Flying in to Bergamo so looking at other options too, possibly Val Di Mello). Definitely on the list is Motorhead at Eldorado Crag, but beyond that not really sure what else to aim for so any suggestions (no proper alpine stuff as will only have rock gear with us no axes or crampons etc.) greatfully received.....
Also any good bivi/wild camping spots in the area, and following on from that is wild camping accepted or could we end up getting a rude awakening by the Swiss boys in blue?
Curious about this myself. Fabulous place
Ssptumania also v good at Eldorado.
Officially quite a few places have no-camping signs. But I've slept a few times on the Gerstenegg entrance parkin' lot. Just don't sleep late and don't set up the tents early in the evening. So basically tent only up from sundown till sunrise or so. Even saw a few cops early in the morning hours and waved to them from my bivisack.
I think you may wanna do a second route on Eldorado, either Septumania, Schweiz Plaisir or Metal Hurlant. Further good climbing can be found with Sagittarius (well bolted, west facing slabs opposite to the Grimsel Hospiz), then Fair Hands Line or Mummery at Handegg. You can also do a route at Mittagflue, depending on your level either Abadia or Heidi mir wei Di.
Moreover, Furkapass is very close. You can head for the Hanibal tower where the routes are about 5 pitches, so you can do two in a day. Then Galengrat is a nice and easy classic. Good climbing also at Gross Bielenhorn, the Niedermann is a fantastic classic. Other options are the Remy brothers routes Nolens Volens, Curiosity and Fandango. Chli Bielenhorn also has a few good routes, including RoRu, Sacremotion and the easier Perrenoud. A trip to Graue Wand is very worthwhile, try the classic Niedermann, or Eisbrecher if you want to be more challenged.
Another idea is a short trip to Nufenenpass. At Poncione di Cassino Baggio there are several nice routes (Picadilly di Bedretto, Herbstwind, Dr grüen Nils), and Poncione di Ruino has some steep crack climbing.
If you are discrete, you can bivy/wild camp on all of Grimsel, Furka and Nufenen.
There are camping spots near the Grimsel Hospiz but as others have said if you are discrete then you should be okay. Take your tent down during the day and dont poop everywhere. The rosti in the Hospiz is lovely!
There used to be a great bivi boulder just off the path before you reached the Motorhead/Septumania area when walking in from the dam. I'm sure it was officially banned but we never had any trouble there or camping under Handegg.
I've been thinking about trying Fair hands line for a while - can anyone who's done it suggest how bold is it? And roughly what sort of Uk grade would it get?
It feels a bit bold on the crux sections - the rib near the start and the slab near the top - they are bolted, but the bolts are a bit spaced. I thought E1 5b the 1st time I did it and E2 5c the 2nd!
I remember the slab at the top (the 'copper plate' or however it translates) being exciting because it started to rain but overall it wasn't too scary.
Mind you, I'm probably comparing it to with Marche ou Creve, which I thought was utterly terrifying!
E2 5b I thought, but I seem to remember only 2 bolts on the whole route. Next to it on the R is an excellent 6b+, E3 5c in sterling. I forgot my trainers so the step descent was a nightmare!
Gletscherweiss at Eldorado is also very good at 6b, with a wild pitch near the top with one bolt halfway up a full on 35m steep slab. However I would recommend Mello. The Kundalini/Luna Nascente link up is simply superb, likewise Oceano Irrazionale.
Soon get round to Salbit area great rock routes and we spent about 3 months camped up the Goschenertal Valley ..West Ridge Salbit Classic ,as is the South Ridge ..
It's been a long time since I was last there, but.....
If the cable car station up by the hospice is still unlocked in the summer there are loads of first rate bivi spots inside. Look over the railings and around the corners as you go down the stairs and there are big, flat, internal concrete roofs that are bone dry and draught free. Spent a very pleasant week in residence there once. The light at the top of the stairs was also permanently on and so that landing made a perfect cooking spot
I'm sure it's still there, Dave. Take a bit of moving, that one!
Thanks guys, thats what I though, think I need to get a bit more milage in first!
here is a link to a blog post about Fair Hands line in the Grimsel pass. I climbed it 4 weeks ago it was super!
> I'm sure it's still there, Dave. Take a bit of moving, that one!
Ah, but it used to be neat and tidy and was even nicely furnished with shelves (reputedly originally by the Remy brothers). I wonder whether it's still in use and maintained to the expected high Swiss standards.
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