UKC

UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The following training article by Alex Barrows has recently been brought up http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb... It contains information about the four main "energy systems" and how to train each one specifically.

Psyche video of the week - vimeo.com/94769863 - Lake District E6 - Suggestions welcome

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity

Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=590456

Exile - Well done on the 7b progress.
hms - 7b sounds good. Sandstone can be weird can't it?
mbh - Good miles again there.
JimmyKay - Rest & rehab yer finger properly mate. You'll just hurt it again if you just pile on again.
Nick Russell - Ohhh cloggy! You're really hitting the classics this year. Well done on the E4, if you're not falling off you're not trying right? And first 7c, awesome!
Alun - Get the rest in mate, it's more important than it seems.
biscuit - Good effort on Taking the space. Good luck with the running training.
Dandan82 - Don't let the climbing get in the way of some good gardening progress Maybe throw a few plant watering sessions in as well. Some weeding might be good also.
Ally Smith - Excellent week. Well done on the onsights and getting the 8a+. Where are you moving to? Anywhere nice?
IainRUK - Ribs better? Well done on the coaching quali.
Humperdink - Nice week there. Good luck for the 1500m. Must be a hard distance that.
Joughton - Nearly got an 8a while hungover? You should be on an 8c then at least! Did you get it this week?
Sankey - WB. WYSIWYG will come soon I'm sure.
Just Tintin - I'm all good now, thanks Good week there, well done on the V2 and the 6c.
leon - Solid week's climbing again.
Luke Owens - Bit like Dan, you're letting climbing get in the way of the gardening! Focus on the garden, it's the way to go!
PPG (in absentia) - Baboo Baboo done yet?
mattrm - 6a+ onsight, well done. Still tubby tho. Eat less pies!

TBH, you're all letting gardening club down. I expect to see lots more weeding and plant watering next week. ;P

In reply to mattrm:
Yup, 8a done.

Feels like a weight off my shoulders more than anything, so now I can focus on aspects of climbing I care more about. The Peak Limestone Rockfax has it down as the easiest 8a in the Peak which seems fair enough to me because the other two I tried felt beyond me, but a tick is a tick.

My first two sessions were this time last year, where I spent a while trying all the moves but being shut down by a stopper. I then returned three weeks ago and have had a session each week on it since. So overall it went on my fifth session, after maybe four failed redpoint attempts in the past couple of weeks. All it needed was some slightly tweaked foot-beta to give me a little more control on the last hard moves.

Mon - Wed - no climbing at all, being nice a sociable though.
Thurs - Chee Dale with Ally. Warmed up going bolt to bolt on Abberation, reminding myself of the moves, then came down and it went on the first attempt of the day. Also did a tricky-to-onsight 7a+ that Ally had unfinished business on, second go.
Fri - Sun - still no climbing...

So I should probably stop basking in glory and start training again! I'm ridiculously unfit, so I need to do some laps at the wall. Basically the plan is to get fit in two weeks before heading out to Norway, where I will get even fitter onsighting lots of sport and trad, then come home and do some hard trad onsights in Pembroke and Gogarth.

I should also add on that my Dad got his Bob Graham round done, 23.20 - a good week for the Oughtons.

Cheers, Jake

In reply to mattrm:

Thanks for doing fit club (yet, yet, yet) again Matt

Aims:

Rock this year: RP 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar) & lead some E3s, (White Noise, One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)

Next winter start with VI 7

Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow

M: 50min road cycle
T: 3hrs climbing at Castle Rock. led Green Eggs and Ham, (E2 5c) and seconded Reward, (E2 5c.) GE&H went fine, glad I didn't lead Reward as the only thing stopping you hit the floor from the crux move is a half in rock 3, (which my mate tested twice,) and as you get higher, (still 5b ish ground,) you would hit the floor from too far up if you came off.
W: 40min road run, (in Cambridge as away with work - a bit different to 24hrs earlier!)
T: Nothing - home very late
F: Nothing - too tired for usual morning bouldering session
S: Nothing
S: 4hrs climbing on Gimmer. Led Spring Bank, E2 5c. Chuffed with this as it was mighty cold first thing so climbing with cold fingers. Seconded Whit's End Direct. E1 5b. (Had led WED about 12 years ago, SB was a hole in my CV which is now filled.)

Very pleased with the week as although I did less than usual the two climbing sessions were excellent. I have mentally gone from feeling that trad was a bit of a write off this year to feeling not too far from one of the E3s I want to do. How things can change in a week!

Weight: Still 11st 10lb but not away with work for a while so hoping to eat well and get this back down.

In reply to Joughton:

Congratulations to you and your Dad - which is harder, 8a or BGR?

In reply to Exile:

Please, please tell me that 8a is wayyy harder than BGR

Congrats both Oughtons!

My week :

M - 10 miles hilly on road
T - 13.2 miles on Bodmin Moor doing Brown Willy and Rough Tor, getting very lost trying to go the same way back in perfect visibility. Had to stop twice at houses and meekly ask "Where am I?", then return along local scenic dual carriageway. Had meant to do about 9 miles.
W - 30s of running, then gave up.
T - 10.1 miles, coast path around St Agnes Head
F - 6.9 miles coast path around Portreath
S - 10. miles flat @ 7:38
S - 10.6 miles Port Gaverne almost to Trebarwith Strand and back on the coast path. Very hilly.

60+ miles, and almost 9000 ft ascent.

In reply to mattrm:
Thanks for your sterling efforts doing fitclub yet again Matt - appreciated.

Currently I'm trying to do 2 conflicting things - lots of really easy bulk to start training for Kaly in Sept, and power just before heading off to France a week today. Makes for a slightly odd mix.

M cycle commute
T ByG with Nick. Couple of easy warm-ups, then 3 goes in the 7b, 1 lead & 2 TR. I can do all the moves now, but the long reach to the pocket is very hard and working out the extraordinarily exact foot placement I need for it took ages. Need to start hurling myself at some proper redpoint attempts now.
W Cycle commute. TRX (2 upper, 2 core) then 50 pull-ups in 5s on a variety of holds. Inc 2 finger pockets, as thought tat might be useful for the 7b.
T Cycle commute. Husband feeling unwell but he offered to be belay bunny, so did 22 routes. Had huge fun - every 6a & 6a+ in he main area of UCR, back to back, then 4x6b to get a final end of session pump going.
F TCA, doing new V1-V3 set. Did all except 1 which needs the reach of a gibbon (and it's a horiz roof, so just popping for it lands me bum on the ground), 3 I couldn't finish & 1 which looked rather traumatic (horrid volumes) so will try another time. Vast majority were flashes. Tired & happy.
S rest, collecting D1 from uni.
S Had planned to go outside, but D1 pointed out she had done zero climbing for 10 weeks so some bulk indoors was urgently required before France. Went to Redpoint, 12 routes, up to 6c, mainly clean but with some weirdness catching me out.

Not sure when I'll be able to post next week as we fly to France at lunchtime Sunday. I believe we have wifi at the gite. Would like to get a couple of 7s over the 2 weeks we are out there, but as I am chief rope monkey and it is supposed to be a family holiday, I would be being unfair to push/obsess too much. Loads of fantastic beta from AJM so hope we can home in in suitable sectors where there is good stuff across the grades. Have also been warned by others that grading at Tarn may lead to disappointment!

In reply to Joughton:

Nice one Jake!

In reply to mbh:

Isn't a BGR basically insane? I know very little about this Cv exercise lark, but since it involves running constantly for an entire day up and down hills in the dark and so on I'm going to guess it requires a larger masochistic streak than a few indoor sessions and a week or two projecting something sun kissed!

In reply to hms:

Surely if Kaly is (early) September you should be spending all of July and August doing power endurance, not base endurance? Have fun in France!

In reply to Exile:
Ooh that's an interesting question!

I think in terms of long-term preparation they're actually probably quite similar, but in terms of on-the-day effort the BG is just so far out of the league! You could easily put in years if training in a BG and then mentally crumble after 20 hours of hard running, whereas on an 8a you can just have another go. So BG wins!

But my Dad might disagree.

In reply to Joughton:

It is interesting. I think it mostly depends where you come from sports wise. At the moment I'm working a 7b and only running a couple of times a week for an hour each time, so on paper I should be closer to 8a than a BG. However, as I've spent most of my life running on and off, and done some longer events, (probably equivalent of half a BG a couple of times,) I think that for me, even at the moment, a BG would be easier to achieve.

(I've also helped a number of times on BGs so can picture what is involved where as I can't really picture what is involved in an 8a yet.)

In reply to AJM:

Weeell.. you don't have to actually run that fast. Not even 3 miles an hour. Which isn't even running. You just just have to keep it going for nigh on a whole day without giving up before you cave in to the Siren calls of some sun kissed, or just kissed, alternative activity!

In reply to AJM:

I believe for Kaly I am currently supposed to be doing capiliarisation. Hence so many easy routes back to back - didn't get any fatigue or pump until the final 4x6b, just steadily climbed them. Was fun!

Can't remember what I'm supposed to be doing in July/Aug as I haven't printed off Adrian's training plan yet, cos I knew I'd be fudging it until after France.

Interested in all your crack climbing exploits. Something I've never properly tried and really really ought to. When I was at the Orange House there was a lovely couple from Sweden, I think, who had solemely brought their special tough crack climbing gloves out with them, as all their home climbing was granite cracks. I don't think they used them in Costa Blanca at all...

In reply to mattrm:
Cheers Matt. Too much bouldering this week. Need to get on the ropes again next week.

M - Rest
T – Boulder Brookes. 5 new blue circuit problems done.
W – Reading social boulder comp. Some good problems.
T - Rest
F – Bouldering: 60 problems at Climbing Unit up to V4
S – BMC Stanage Festival. Naomi Buys and Pete Whittaker masterclasses. V4 sitstart arete to right of Deliverance will definitely go with dry rock. SO MANY MIDGES! Also amazed at how a perfectly doable VS can be turned into a nightmare if you are told to jam it rather than layback.
S – A little walk to recce High Tor – routes picked (sport and trad) for next Peak trip. Couldn’t sleep for midge bites.


In Gardening Club, dandelions pulled out of flower bed. Christmas Poinsetta still alive.

In reply to Joughton:


Awesome, good work! And well done to your Dad too.

Re: "softest 8a in the Peak", see this comment by Tom Randall back in March:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=580454&v=1#x7696951

In reply to mattrm:

Thanks mattrm


STG (by end of september)
Boulder v6 in font (September)
Train as much as possible over summer


MTG (end of '14)
Climb more trad
Boulder v7
Onsight 7a redpoint 7b

LTG
Lead 8a
Boulder v9

Had a very busy last couple of weeks without much climbing being done although i have started running. This week has been a little better though...

M- work
T- went to burbage west had a play on the nose but was too hot, managed to climb scooter (V4) second go.
W- Went to Birchen Edge got some v4 dyno and a tricky v3 arete other than that, just bumbled.
T- rest
F- Went to rockcity at Hull managed to flash a v4 but my skin was still trashed from the grit!
S-Work
S-Work

Was nice to get out climbing after a couple of weeks of solid work. Off to WWales for a couple of days this week so hopefully will get some more done then

In reply to mattrm:


Thanks for the stats again Matt, entertaining as usual. I'm trying to get out to the classics while the weather's good; I'll only regret it come winter if I don't! A few more this weekend... Sorry I'm letting the gardening club down, step 1 for me would have to be 'get a garden' :p

M - Yoga.
T - Ban-y-Gor with hms. 6b+,6b (and fixed a rope on dodgy section of path) to warm-up. Attempted a 7a+ (upgraded to 7b in 2012 supplement) with a heinous technical move which I couldn't do. Ripped a flapper on finger, retreated. Could have gone better.
W - Cheddar. Thor (HVS) then attempted a 7b, True Colours. It's a really good route, with excellent pocketey rock. Unfortunately it's a (easy trad) pitch up so a pain to get to and also closed all summer now. Worth going back to in the autumn.
T - Rest
F - Rest
S,S - Llanberis tradfest. A good fun event, though not overly organised. Saturday went to the slate, did Comes the Dervish amongst others. Sunday did Lubyanka on Cyrn Las (although I think we're supposed to call it Diffwys Ddu now). Really cool 4-pitch mountain E3, with a very exposed (and not very protected) hand traverse to finish.

Another good weekend! It looks like I'm still letting climbing get in the way of training (and gardening), but it's good fun.

2014 goals
Sport: 8a. Best RP: 7c
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Attempted: 6, clean onsight: 1 (+1 highball/solo GU; +1 solo HP)
Trad: Staffs NIAD
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 220/416km down.
Swimming: Enter some competitions, get some 'benchmark' times. 58.69 100fr*, 26.98 (26.3*) 50 fr, 1:12.34 100 bk, 31.12 50 fly*, 1:09.58 100 IM
*Relay splits

Short-term goals

Get some sport mileage in 7b-7c range.
A few attempts on 7bs this week, didn't really get stuck into anything though.

Plan/train for trips in September: 1 week in Lundy, 2 weeks in North East US.
Rumney guide out of print, going for upwards of $70 on e-bay... mountainproject.com has pretty good coverage though. Reading descriptions there it sounds like a lot of the hard routes have some very bouldery bits in. Maybe my training time would be best spent on strength, with outdoor climbing keeping the endurance ticking over

In reply to Nick Russell:

Good trip to Wales then! Would ByG on Weds work for you? Or different venue if you'd prefer (although I'd quite like to get back on the 7b - which I suspect you'd do pretty easily!)

In reply to mattrm:

New house is in Knutsford – no real local crags, but close to the peak and crucially, close to work so I won’t be losing 2hrs a day to the M56.
Inevitable come down this week after a couple of good ‘uns. I’m accumulating more projects than I’m completing and mentally not quite on the money. Need to work out where I am with the new woman whilst simultaneously catching up on sleep, and doing some proper training! Sore back might need some more physio/massage too.

LTG (End 2014):
- Healthy shoulders & elbows – keep following the physio
- Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime
- Do “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)

MTG (Spring/Summer 2014):
- Buy a house and build some home training facilities; progressing nicely.
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham.
- Get back into trad and on-sight some E5s
- Aero-power training; keep an-cap, finger-boarding and aero-cap ticking over.
- Aim for fighting weight of 74kg and 6.6% BF – 74.0kg and 6.5% BF this morning

STG (The coming week)
- More injury niggles - Keep physio’ing the shoulder/ back/finger
- Sort out the $hit skin issue

Last week:
M - Needed high caffeine dose to get through day at work, but still got out to Dinbren with perma-psyched Luke. Tried a couple of 8a+/b things – couple of potential new projects to investigate.
T - Nowt – it rained so I sacked off intended training and worked late, then sorted out house & car $hit. Slept like log.
W - Pantymwyn – Did GC a couple of times and investigated new route options on the headwall. Home before dark which was different!
T - Cheedale with Jake. The youth crushed it; I just got frustrated by the humid conditions. By the time I figured the key body position I’d split a tip (2nd in 2 weeks). Finished off a 7a+/b I’d failed on before.
F - Rest. Should have done my physio.
S - Kilnsey. 7a warm-up, then 3 goes on Full Tilt. Felt like I was lacking beans; thought I’d fathomed a sequence for bottom bit, but couldn’t do the link. Might need a re-think. Split another tip! Got on Myra Hindley for mileage. Failed to flash. Failed to RP; elbows out and nothing to give by mid-height.
S - Rhoscolyn with Pete. Scratched up my shoulder from not wearing a t-shirt on The Sun, then got sunburnt from not wearing a t-shirt on Warpath. Both excellent routes – to be recommended, but it has to be said – trad makes you weak! (Failed/flailed on Jerry’s roof on the way home, and bruised my ring finger).

In reply to mattrm:

Thanks for doing gardening club Matt, good progress on the fencing and cleared a lot of crap with a big bonfire on Friday night

In less important matters, training is still going well, gym sessions are strong and I had another cheeky boulder this week, plus a bit of real rock action!

M: Chest; Dumbell press, machine press, pec dec
T: Boulder; Indoor, 30-40 problems at v0-v2, couple of steep v3, 300 move circuit
Core; l-hangs, hanging knee raises, front lever
W: Shoulders; barbell raise, arnold press, bent over lat raise, reverse flys, cable front raise, cable lateral raise
T:
F: Garden
S: Portland, Cuttings, 5, 6b, 6b.
S: Garden

Bouldering Tuesday was really good, much less tweaking than the previous visit, although some of the problems had not had their grades updated so I pulled onto a red that was clearly not a v0, but I stupidly persevered to the top through a set of crimpy, 2 finger pockets. I seem to have gotten away with it but I should really have bailed straight away, the problem was around v3/4.
The 300 move circuit felt great, really got my heart rate going and the forearms pumping. It took just shy of 20 minutes which means a little less than 4 seconds per move, does that seem a bit slow to anyone?

My finger was a little sore the next day but nothing too bad, it's still on the mend.

Shoulder session wednesday was really good, left shoulder felt mega stable in all sorts of exercises that I have previously had issues with. It's really getting to the point where I can hardly tell I had surgery, in fact the left shoulder is stronger than the right in some exercises now!

We went to visit our puppy on saturday (taking her home in 2 weeks!) and went on to Portland for the afternoon as it is quite nearby. It was very chilled, just a quick bimble on the rock, I didn't want to push it.
I did watch my mate Si working Sign of the Vulcan with some new beta for grabbing the vulcan pocket, I was desperate to have a go there and then as it looks very do-able now, but I managed to restrain myself. Once the finger is sorted that should be a quick tick though.

So all is good, more of the same, going to see Nina the physio on saturday so I will probably pop to TCA or Redpoint for a gentle bimble unless the weather is particularly good in which case we might head to cheddar.

In reply to mattrm:

Thanks matt!

I think i'm going to take your advice and give fit club a break for a few weeks, get my motivation back up. I'll be back though!

In reply to Joughton:

Strong effort Jake! Bet you're psyched!

In reply to mattrm: Cheers Matt!

Monday: Dinbren on the proj
Better beta sorted for crux. Massive link from between the 1st and 2nd clip to the top. All clipping positions sorted.

Tuesday: Dinbren on the proj
Did some big links on lead, clipping the 3rd bolt feels like the crux now! Greasy conditions with no breeze and lack of skin meant the redpoints will have to wait!

Wednesday:

Thursday: Random day off work went bouldering in the Pass

Worked the moves on Arse Soul (7A) and then did Paul's Bulge (6C) 2nd go and Six Pack (6C). Tried King of Drunks (7A)a few times with no progress. Went up to try Killer Weed (6C+), zero skin left and lack of time meant I did all the moves but didn't link them.

Friday: Rest

Saturday: Rest

Sunday: Back bouldering in the Pass, still felt tired from Thursday. Came frustrating close on Arse Soul, kept falling off after the crux move. Sorted the top move then couldn't do it all because I split 5 tips...Yes 5!

Went over to King of Drunks, can now do top move but didn't have it in me to link the whole thing and skin was screaming.

Went up to Weed Killer and felt greasing off it in a mixture of blood, sweat and agony...

Took ~2.5 hours to get home due to traffic, should of gone sport climbing...

-----------

I'm getting the feeling I'm not eating or sleeping enough, I hardly have any energy when I'm out. I'm not recovering from my sessions at all at the moment. That combined with now annihilated skin is effecting the psyche.

In reply to mattrm:
To update 8a club:

AJM - DONE!!!
mattrm - hahahahahahahahaha.... er suspect it'll be 8a in 10 years if ever....
Joughton - DONE!!!
Tubb93 - Not yet
Nick Russell - Not far (7b+)
alun - I reckon it'll be soon.
ppg - Not far either.
Luke - 7b+ rp, so shouldn't be far off
Biscuit - Bumping around 7c? Soon I'm sure.
Dandan82 - Nearly recovered and probably not far off

So that's 2 out of 10 done. I reckon there's a few more to come soon as well.

In reply to mattrm:


My hardest is 7b+.

The 7c i'm working on will be done soon, then i'll get on an 8a!

In reply to Luke Owens:

Ahh ok. I had taken that list from when I did it a month ago, didn't actually bother to update it properly.

In reply to mattrm:

I'm confident I can get this done this year before the weather turns, as long as my finger is sorted in the next month or so. A few good sessions on Fighting Torque should be all I need...

In reply to mattrm:

7c as of just over a week ago! Not that I've tried anything harder than that yet, I suspect if I found one in the right style I could get it done by the end of the year. Possible candidate in Rumney for September:
http://mountainproject.com/v/predator/105884551
but I suspect I won't have the inclination to spend that much of my time there projecting a single route... (and I have to get a belayer up a 5.11a/6b+ pitch for each session)

In reply to hms:

I think one of the big learning points on this trip is that for punters like myself tape gloves work on cracks just like kneebar pads work on, well, kneebars - they remove (to a large extent) the pain and allow you to focus on finding the good ones rather than the least painful ones.

In reply to mattrm:


Thanks Matt (again). 1500m is tough and painful because you can generate plenty of lactic acid but over quickly when compared to 5K. They're just hard in different ways! On the plus side I did water my neighbours pots whilst he was off on holiday this week so please accept that as my contribution to gardening club.

M: pm - 5M in 30:05
Tu: pm - 2/3M in 16mins + strides
W: pm 1500m race (BMC regional @ Eltham). Made the long trek into London in order to try racing somewhere else for a change. Was pleased to be in the "A" race until I saw it was going to be paced at 2:00 for the first 800m (ie my 800m PB) so it was a case of: note to self, do not follow the pacemaker. Felt pretty good warming up but a bit stiff doing strides before the race. Got out ok but surprised the first lap was 65 as it felt quicker than that. Same for 2nd lap but then it picked up with the 3rd lap a 63 meaning that sub 4 was on. Kicked as hard as possible over the last 300 but it wasn't quite to be. Still, a small PB to finish 9th in 4:00.69 - getting closer to sub 4. Race was won in 3:48 or something equally silly. ~6M total
Th: 7M easy in 47:49 felt a bit broken
F: 5M easy in 32:37 then a massage which was needed.
Sa: Went to a wedding but still managed to sneak out in the morning and get ~75mins done 11/12M
Su: bit of a hangover, 45mins easy, 6/7M

~42M total for the week. Was initially disappointed with Wednesday but can't be too upset with a PB and sub 4 is getting close. Just need not to make it into too big of a barrier now. Its a bit like when red-pointing and you know you "should" be able to do a route but you still have to!

STG/MTG (end of year):
Sub 2 for 800 (2:00.64 so far)
Sub 4 for 1500 (4:00.69 so far)
Sub 15 for 5000 (Tick - 14:53)
Sub 31 for 10K
Run a half-marathon

In reply to mattrm:

AWOL again, sorry... a busy but uneventful few weeks.

This week:
Mon - Boulder. Still wiped out from the weekend, I don't know why as I spent more time dozing in the sun than actually climbing.
Tues - Routes. 10mins on, 10 mins off x 6, 6a-6b+.
Wedns - Social boulder, tired but fun.
Thurs- Weighted pullups.
Fri, Sat, Sun - Non-climbing weekend away.

In reply to mattrm:

STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (1/10), 6b (0/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - HVS (0/10), E1 (0/6), E2 (0/1) 11st 10lbs weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st.

Weight - 12st (but back on the diet properly)

M - Tip runs
T - Gelli sport
W - Rest
T - Rest
F - Setting up for wedding
S - Wedding
S - Tip runs

One climbing session in. Did a couple of 4s and then TRed a 6a and a 6b, due to my mate being convinced if I fell off on the second bolt, I'd hit the deck. So that screwed with my head, hence the top roping. Weight has all gone back on, which is a bit depressing. Could only manage the 11st 10lbs for a few weeks before it all crept back on.

Spent the weekend at a mates wedding, I ended up helping out with setting everything up which was actually good fun. It was in a field, so there was a lot of setting up marquees, lumping tables and chairs around. Then saw lots of old mates from uni, which was odd. Nice but odd.g

Been finally reading the self coached climber, hence the pyramids up top. Should be less depressing than just having 'climb 6c' up there, be nice to see it all fill up.

Finally been able to crank out 5 pull ups on the fingerboard in a row, so these tip runs are obviously working. Reckon I've moved about 2.5 tons of concrete (from a concrete path we had) ove the last few weeks.

In reply to mattrm: I'm late again, but at least within the week! Went to Malham and tried Free and Even Easier, best link I have managed on that. Hope it will all come together soon!

Saturday: Malham - free and... 4 goes

STG: RP 7b

MTG: Cassin Route Piz Badille end July

LTG:

In reply to mattrm:

MTG (June): Classic E2 tick.
LTG(2014): Star Wars & Pleasure Dome.
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

Mon: Weights. Push-ups & Pull-ups.
Tue: Arc(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V3). Repeaters.
Wed: Climbing @ Horseshoe.
Thu: Core. Weights.
Fri: Arc(30 mins). Repeaters.
Sat: Wallowbarrow.
Sun: Nothing.

Thanks mattrm.

Good climbing @ horeshoe on Wednesday. Finished on 6b, next time the plan is to warm-up on 6b and hopefully fall off some 6cs.

First time at Wallowbarrow on Saturday, nice crag & only a short drive from my parents.