UKC

Bastille - High Tor

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 Ally Smith 01 Jul 2014
I'm keen to get on Bastille at High Tor, but unlike the popular E5's to its left, i've never seen anyone attempt it, nor have i ever seen chalk on it.

So, what i'm asking for is:
- Does it stay clean, or am I in for a sketchy dusty lead?
- Are you going to take a desmond if you fluff the crux?
- Anyone know how reliable the peg is?
- Hard for E6?

Ta
In reply to Ally Smith:

> - Does it stay clean, or am I in for a sketchy dusty lead?

I think it stays clean.

> - Are you going to take a desmond if you fluff the crux?

The crux has a bolt right next to you, so no. However the run-out above the crux is quite spicy. Only 5c climbing but insecure and sustained. Then there is a rest, then there is the hard upper wall which has three bolts.

> - Anyone know how reliable the peg is?

No idea if it is solid but I doubt you will test it if you get that far.

> - Hard for E6?

Well, speaking as the person who upgraded it to E6 I probably can't comment, however I have heard few complaints about its E6 status. Probably not a hard one though.

Alan
OP Ally Smith 01 Jul 2014
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

Thanks Alan - i'll keep my eyes peeled on the weather forecast for an overcast day and get on it
 john arran 01 Jul 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:

I climbed it 30 years ago when the bolts hadn't been in that long and found it about right at hardish E5. I was on it again maybe 10 years ago and backed off the crux not wanting to risk a decent fall onto what looked to me like a pretty old and rusting bolt. Certainly E6 now. My guess is that the bolt would probably be ok, and others have told me they thought it fine, but trusting uncertain fixed gear isn't a game I enjoy playing.
 jon 01 Jul 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:

Replace the bolt?
 dominic lee 01 Jul 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:

The lower bolts look to be in good shape for the initial cruxy wall. There are wire placements on the right side of the groove before the peg, though these are hard to place. Or at least they were 30 odd years ago...I presume the ancient small eyed bolts on the upper wall have been also replaced. No problems with these routes being clean..Enjoy.
 Wft 01 Jul 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:

Don't know if you're bothered Ally but there's footage of it on one of Alistair Lee's films (Onsight 2?), some southern gent having a tough time and taking a good lob off the top.

Looks amazing, good luck!
In reply to Ally Smith:

The bolts were replaced a few years back and - I believe - raised in height ever so slightly to avoid the deck-out potential Alan mentioned.

I belayed Dan McManus on it last year and he didn't make it look easy, therefore suggesting (because he's a wad) that it isn't a path...
 petegunn 01 Jul 2014
In reply to GuyVG:

Think he may also take one at the start and takes a bit of a tumble down the slope past his belayer!?
OP Ally Smith 01 Jul 2014
In reply to petegunn:

Thanks guys; sounds like a screwgate on the pre-crux bolt and not using the skinny 8mm ropes will be the way forward!

However, having been burnt off by Dan previously, hearing that he had a hard time on it isn't so encouraging.
 nathanlee 02 Jul 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:

Chalked after today wasnt me either..
 Goucho 02 Jul 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:

I found it very hard, but the gear seemed good enough at the time - though that was about 20 odd years ago.

One of the best routes on the crag.

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