UKC

Self belay and lifespan?

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 _sllab_ 01 Jul 2014
Are there any climbers here that prefer or use the self belay system such as practiced by Andy Kirkpatrick? Using a Soloist belay device and aid climbing. Or really any type of self belay wherein the climber feeds out rope as he climbs.

I am not talking top roping with a shunt.

Why do you do it? How many years have you survived so far?

Where do you climb? Have you used this method in any of the usual uk climbing locations?

Or is this only a USA technique.



 jimtitt 01 Jul 2014
In reply to _sllab_:

> Are there any climbers here that prefer or use the self belay system such as practiced by Andy Kirkpatrick? Using a Soloist belay device and aid climbing. Or really any type of self belay wherein the climber feeds out rope as he climbs.

> I am not talking top roping with a shunt.

> Why do you do it? None of your business.How many years have you survived so far? Plenty.

> Where do you climb? Germany, Italy. Other places. Have you used this method in any of the usual uk climbing locations? No.

> Or is this only a USA technique.No.

 dan wisey 01 Jul 2014
In reply to _sllab_:

I have used a gri gri and self belay system once in llandulas caves. It was a bit of a faff but seemed to work ok. it was really hard work ( I did an old aid route in the cave which was mostly a bolt clipping exercise). I would like to try it out on something more vertical next time!
 Rick Graham 01 Jul 2014
In reply to jimtitt:

> Are there any climbers here that prefer or use the self belay system such as practiced by Andy Kirkpatrick? Using a Soloist belay device and aid climbing. Or really any type of self belay wherein the climber feeds out rope as he climbs.

> I am not talking top roping with a shunt.

> Why do you do it? None of your business.How many years have you survived so far? Plenty.

Ditto. 44 years

> Where do you climb? Germany, Italy. Other places. Have you used this method in any of the usual uk climbing locations? No.

UK, Europe, USA, Yes

> Or is this only a USA technique.No.

Ditto.
 John Kelly 01 Jul 2014
In reply to _sllab_:

Ive done it a few times, all in the lakes, just used a clove hitch

Quite long winded - the belay is more difficult as it has to take a upward pull, probably best on routes you expect not to fall off
 Baron Weasel 01 Jul 2014
In reply to _sllab_:

Works fine for aid climbing, apart from being a little more complicated, why should it be more dangerous than being belayed? Chances are you will have less slack in the system [see decking out on rope stretch thread...].

 LucaC 01 Jul 2014
In reply to _sllab_:
Pretty sure this topic question will be prone to self selecting bias.
Post edited at 22:13
 David Coley 01 Jul 2014
In reply to _sllab_:

Yes.
20 years
Why? When I'm on holiday with the family and don't have anyone to climb with.
Only do it on long routes
I use a silent partner or an eddy
USA and Europe, never UK

Don't underestimate the faff, or the shit you will be in if you get even slightly injured.
 Mark Collins 02 Jul 2014
In reply to _sllab_:

> Are there any climbers here that prefer or use the self belay system such as practiced by Andy Kirkpatrick?

I don't in the main, but have gravitated to it through lack of availability of partners.

> Why do you do it? How many years have you survived so far?

Its a different experience and in some ways can be more fulfilling than climbing with a partner, obviously more kudos. The loneliness and faff is rubbish though.

I've survived it for 5 years so far.

> Where do you climb? Have you used this method in any of the usual uk climbing locations?

Anglezarke
Old Man of Stoer (http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3889)
Malham
Kilnsey
Gimmer
South Face, Washington Column, Yosemite

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