/ NEW ARTICLE: The Five Best E2 Routes in the UK?

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UKC Articles - on 02 Jul 2014
JG on Commander Energy (E2 5c), Roaches Lower Tier, 4 kbDuncan Campbell picks his top E2 climbs. From the crumbly Mousetrap to the epic Prophecy of Drowning...

But wait... why hasn't he included Left Wall?

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=6382

jon on 02 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC Articles:

> But wait... why hasn't he included Left Wall?

Never mind that. This is far more worrying:

> The Weaver - Forget Vector, which although classic is nowhere near as good as it's more direct neighbour.
Bob on 02 Jul 2014
In reply to jon:
I know, the punctuation. Why don't writers consider the number of kittens that will die?
Post edited at 14:43
M0nkey - on 02 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC Articles:

Must have been written by someone who has never climbed at Fairhead, arguably the home of ALL the best E2s in the UK.
TRip - on 02 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC Articles:

What about Shrike, Jelly Roll or Troach Dunc?
Bob on 02 Jul 2014
In reply to M0nkey:

What about the E2s on the Eastern Ramparts on Beinn Eighe? Angel Face and the like?

Just remembered - where's Shibboleth? EEEEEK!!!!
danm - on 02 Jul 2014
In reply to M0nkey:

Hurricane, Mizen Star, Equinox, blah blah blah.

I'd also have to go for:

The Strand, Central Pillar on Esk, Astra on Pavey.

Plus, Fiver Finger Exercise and Fernhill if you must have some gritstone.

Good fun this!
Diggler - on 02 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC Articles:

Darius ??
Bulls Crack - on 02 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC Articles:

4 of them are good choices but Commander Energy? Darius if you want a Peak one
Dave Foster - on 02 Jul 2014
In reply to Bulls Crack:

Regent St for me in the Peak.
Mick Ward - on 02 Jul 2014
In reply to jon:

At least The Weaver's an awful lot better than Machete Wall.

Mick
Robert Durran - on 02 Jul 2014
In reply to Bob:
> What about the E2s on the Eastern Ramparts on Beinn Eighe? Angel Face and the like?

> Just remembered - where's Shibboleth? EEEEEK!!!!

You could make a case for four of the best five best E2's in the UK all being on Scottish mountain crags (Shibboleth, Torro, Steeple, Angel Face). The fact that all are omitted means the list is pretty laughable. Though if the idea was to include one token Scottish route, then Prophecy is a good choice. And putting Chimes of Freedom (albeit a fine route) alongside Prophecy is a mockery.

I might have included White Slab despite it being in Wales (it's that good!).
Post edited at 17:48
remus - on 02 Jul 2014
In reply to Mick Ward:

Not to mention the fact that machete wall is E1.
Ron Kenyon - on 02 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC Articles:

Impossible task to name the best FIVE - so many fantastic E2's - best HUNDRED would be a better and a more useful list.
tom84 - on 02 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC Articles:

commander energy? you've got to be joking me. is it even in the top 10 e2s at the roaches?
Bob on 02 Jul 2014
In reply to Robert Durran:

Hmm, I did Saxon in July 1983 and Steeple in August 1983 either side of a trip to Chamonix and I thought Saxon much the better route.

In general I'd agree with you, Scotland has masses of excellent routes at all grades, little in the Peak comes close to matching them.
johncoxmysteriously - on 02 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC Articles:

That's actually a pretty good list, assuming you don't count Fair Head, of course.

Although RD's Shibboleth, Torro, Steeple, Angel Face and Prophecy does have a certain ring of truth to it, if you should happen to find all of them roughly dry.

jcm
Robert Durran - on 02 Jul 2014
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

> Although RD's Shibboleth, Torro, Steeple, Angel Face and Prophecy does have a certain ring of truth to it, if you should happen to find all of them roughly dry.

I imagine they were all dry yesterday.
Robert Durran - on 02 Jul 2014
In reply to Bob:

> Hmm, I did Saxon in July 1983 and Steeple in August 1983 either side of a trip to Chamonix and I thought Saxon much the better route.

In which case it must be phenomenally brilliant. I admit, to my shame, that I've never climbed on Scafell :-(.
Heike - on 02 Jul 2014
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
I have found all of them dry when I did them and vastly better than a single Gritstone pitch, but hey that's just me!! ;-)
Post edited at 19:45
Michael Gordon - on 02 Jul 2014
In reply to Robert Durran:

Torro loses points for being a soft touch. Definitely a great E1 though!
jon on 02 Jul 2014
In reply to Heike:

> vastly better than a single Gritstone pitch, but hey that's just me!! ;-)

No it's not just you!

Si dH - on 02 Jul 2014
In reply to jon:

Weaver is miles better than Vector.

However I also think Darius is better than Delicatessen in the best of the rest bit.

Commander Energy is a good route, and it's got a picture of me in wonderful orange all over the front page of ukc. But really? :)
TRip - on 02 Jul 2014
In reply to Robert Durran:

> I might have included White Slab despite it being in Wales (it's that good!).

Eh? It is the worst of the good E2s on Cloggy.

Jelly Roll and especially Shrike blow the socks off it! Troach and Silhouette are both superior too.
Robert Durran - on 02 Jul 2014
In reply to TRip:

> Jelly Roll and especially Shrike blow the socks off it! Troach and Silhouette are both superior too.

I thought it was magnificent, holding its own with the big mountain crag routes in Scotland. Not done Jelly Roll, but the others you mention really just seemed like quality short routes in a mountain setting and nothing like as memorable.

jim jones on 03 Jul 2014
In reply to TRip:

> Jelly Roll and especially Shrike blow the socks off it! Troach and Silhouette are both superior too.

And all superior by miles to Commander Energy. Commander Energy is a good route but amongst the best five E2's in the UK? C'mon!
Bob on 03 Jul 2014
In reply to jim jones:

The title of the article should be:

"The Five Best E2 Routes in the UK that I have done and which will generate postings on UKC"
simes303 - on 03 Jul 2014
In reply to tom84:

> commander energy? you've got to be joking me. is it even in the top 10 e2s at the roaches?

That's exactly what I thought too.
ChrisBrooke - on 03 Jul 2014
In reply to Bob:

> The title of the article should be:

> "The Five Best E2 Routes in the UK that I have done and which will generate postings on UKC"

Which kind of *is* the point of these articles. Gets us all talking.
Owen W-G - on 03 Jul 2014
In reply to ChrisBrooke:

For the definite list, UK top 200 here
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=764
ads.ukclimbing.com
ChrisBrooke - on 03 Jul 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

Only done a handful of those, but Left Wall, Quietus, Erb and Suspense would be in my top 10. I'm a bit Peak-centric though.
mattrm - on 03 Jul 2014
In reply to Bob:

> The title of the article should be:

> "The Five Best E2 Routes in the UK that I have done and which will generate postings on UKC"

Exactly. What gave it away? The previous two articles (HVS and E1) which were equally as provocative maybe? I'm awaiting the best 5 VSes and best 5 E3s articles any day now.
cem on 03 Jul 2014
In reply to Bulls Crack:

My sentiments entirely. I thought Commander Energy was a good route but my immediate reaction was that it was very insignificant when compared with Darius.
ashtond6 - on 03 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC Articles:

oh god what a list...

commander energy, must be a joke

scoop wall
elder crack
vector
wuthering

..are all better than half that list
The Ivanator - on 03 Jul 2014
Nick Russell on 03 Jul 2014
In reply to mattrm:

> Exactly. What gave it away?

The opening paragraphs also give some clues:

> below is a selection that I think deserve your attention – they might not be the best, but [...] these routes present a journey for me, and hold personal touches. [...] This list might be rather more special to me, but they’re still classics for anyone to try.
tom84 - on 03 Jul 2014
In reply to ChrisBrooke:

> Only done a handful of those, but Left Wall, Quietus, Erb and Suspense would be in my top 10. I'm a bit Peak-centric though.

There's tons of good grit routes, and suspense is probably *my* fave e2 on grit because it's got a bit of everything. These lists will always favour grit routes because of the mass of climbers and routes of a reasonable quality in a small area. I recently had the fortune to climb (albeit only a few) routes on torridon sandstone and thought it was similar to grit, but better, longer and more interesting climbing! If you like grit then head north and check the area out.
ChrisBrooke - on 03 Jul 2014
In reply to tom84:

Sounds good. Trouble with getting to Torridon from Bury St Edmunds is that I could be in the Alps a fair bit quicker :)
Jon Stewart - on 04 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC Articles:

Hmmmm. Obviously, Commander Energy is the stand-out weird choice, as it's barely 2*. For grit, I'd have either Elegy or Five Finger Exercise.

Why does everyone go on about Darius? It's a long pitch and really hard, but I can't think of anything much to say about it other than it's on horrible loose polished rock by a busy A road.

I think Silver Shadow is way better than Chimes, which is really easy except for a couple of awkward moves through the roof.

And Mousetrap. I don't think that novelty choss routes have a place in a UK's best list. If one of the categories that had to be covered was choss, I'd have Mercury Direct instead.
Nick Russell on 04 Jul 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

> For grit, I'd have either Elegy or Five Finger Exercise.
Elegy would be an excellent choice!

> If one of the categories that had to be covered was choss, I'd have Mercury Direct instead.
I'm surprised by this. I remember a worrying loose block at the top of the offwidth section, and the roof right at the top being a bit unstable, but very sound apart from that! I definitely wouldn't put it in the choss category.
Jon Stewart - on 04 Jul 2014
In reply to Nick Russell:

> I'm surprised by this. I remember a worrying loose block at the top of the offwidth section, and the roof right at the top being a bit unstable, but very sound apart from that! I definitely wouldn't put it in the choss category.

I wasn't expecting a choss route at all, but the rock on the 2nd pitch is identical to South Stack cheese. On the section climbing the corner, the slab is all snappy, sandy crap - though thankfully the corner itself where the gear is is fine (although permadamp of course). A foothold broke on me on that first section, at which point the thought of traversing across the choss with no gear was terrifying. Thankfully the further you get from the corner the more solid it becomes and it all turns out fine...


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