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Topic - 2nd iteration of climbing (training) wall design.

GwilymR - on 03 Jul 2014
Following on from my previous post and since buying a copy of 'Gimme Kraft' I have updated my design and I think this is what I am going to build.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=242122
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=242123

The green face is at 10 deg, the red face is at 30 and the blue faces are vertical. There is a peg board, a campus board at 15 deg and a 'Sloper Rail' along the roof. I think I will fit lights and speakers to the sloper rail. They will be powered by a 12v car battery and some solar panels on the roof as the shed won't be electrically connected.
The space behind the wall is to be used as storage for our tenant. The Space behind the 30 deg face is to be used to store a canoe and a seakayak.
jkarran - on 03 Jul 2014
In reply to GwilymR:

What's a peg board? And why so many braces behind the 30deg board?
jk
GwilymR - on 03 Jul 2014
In reply to jkarran:
A peg board is a training tool for working your lock off strength.
Mine will be three sheets of ply sandwiched together with a grid of holes drilled through. You insert 2 pegs and pull up, lock off with one arm then move the other arm's peg, lock off with that arm and move the first peg. What makes it interesting is that you have to be quite precise to place the pegs so your lock has to be very stable.

The braces align with the wall uprights and ceiling joists. I also wanted 2 shelves behind it and figured a little overkill was ok as I'm only going to build this once and 2x4 is very cheap.
Post edited at 09:47
galpinos - on 03 Jul 2014
In reply to GwilymR:

Comments:

Your kickboard on the 30 deg looks big.
What's the point of the 10 d board With half o it being a tiny campus board, what's the point?
Will you really use a peg board?

AlanLittle - on 03 Jul 2014
In reply to GwilymR:

> The space behind the wall is to be used as storage for our tenant.

Your tenant will store things there? Or the other interpretation, which s/he might not like very much?
GwilymR - on 03 Jul 2014
In reply to galpinos:

Yes it is big. I didn't want to make the 30 any shallower and I din't want it to extend into the room any further so I made the kickboard big.

The campus board is 4 feet wide so I wouldn't describe it as tiny...
Not really sure what I will use the 10 for but I don't want to make it steeper as I don't want to extend it into the room. It is 8 feet wide so again not that small.

I have no idea but I think it is a good use of the space and 'Gimme Kraft' has a bunch of exercises for it so I thought I would build one. Also it acts as a nice way of tying the walls together and preventing the roof from sagging.
GwilymR - on 03 Jul 2014
In reply to AlanLittle:

I don't follow...
jon on 03 Jul 2014
In reply to GwilymR:

Think he means you'll put your tenant in there!
GwilymR - on 03 Jul 2014
In reply to jon:

Right...

The tenants house has a large garden with an asbestos garage in it that is not included in the rent. We are going to remove the old garage and replace it with the above design. This includes a 12 x 8 foot space accesible via a side door that will be strictly for the tenant.
Hopefully it is now clear that the tenant can only be pleased by the new arangement.
alooker - on 03 Jul 2014
In reply to GwilymR:

Don't worry Alan, some of us got your joke!

Kickboard does look huge, if you need it to be that big for aesthetics then I guess it'll have to do.

Pegboard is an interesting idea, figure out if you'll use it though - have you been on them before?

Campus board being 4ft wide isn't exactly massive. I'd be smashing my hips into the wall next to it if I was campusing the right hand set of rungs.

Where's the mandatory hangboard gonna go...?

Where did you get your hair cut?
GwilymR - on 03 Jul 2014
In reply to alooker:

It's more about optimal use of the space than aesthetics but I think it does have to be the way it is.

I haven't used one before... Perhaps I will build a small one first and have a play before I build the big one in my design.

Yes I thought about that... I think it just means I'll have to campus without swinging from side to side :P

I thought hangboards and fingerboards were just space efficient ways of training? I don't think I need one with all the space I have.

Hair cut is only available to Siemens NX 7.5 users ;)
alooker - on 03 Jul 2014
In reply to GwilymR:

Not really, hangboards are a way of making finger strength the limiting factor of an exercise, it's just a benefit that they don't take up much space.

Have you used a campus board before, then? Did you not do some swinging? 4ft wide is a tiny campus board mate, even more so with 3 rung sizes...
Bulls Crack - on 06 Jul 2014
In reply to GwilymR:

Love the shelving!
In reply to GwilymR:

Just a thought, and I don't know if the hole centres would be too far apart, but could you combine the peg board and the campus board? i.e. have campus rungs and holes. That way you could maybe tweak it to have a slightly wider campus board and not use up extra space for a peg board, as well as create a whole new school of peg to campus rung exercises...
GwilymR - on 07 Jul 2014
In reply to alooker:

Hmm okay. I do have a small fingeboard so I will find a space for it!

I have used a campus board before and I did swing a bit but typically when I was near the end of a set. If I shorten my sets and aim for quality rather than quantity I think I could reduce swinging to almost none.
Metolius, Crusher and Snap campus rungs are all 400mm long. You can fit 3 rung sizes on a 4ft board... I don't intend to campus alongside anyone so I don't see why 4ft is a narrow board. I get that its not ideal having it against the vertical face but I'm sure I'll get used to it.
GwilymR - on 07 Jul 2014
In reply to Bulls Crack:

Thanks!
GwilymR - on 07 Jul 2014
In reply to 65m moderate millington:

A very interesting thought. I don't think combining the two would put the hole centres too far apart. It might be tricky to drill the holes though as they should be horizontal and the campus board will be overhaning... I'm sure its possible though... perhaps with some sacrificial pieces...
Also If I do that I'll have to think of something else to put where the pegboard is now!
ads.ukclimbing.com
jkarran - on 07 Jul 2014
In reply to GwilymR:

re. kickboard height

> It's more about optimal use of the space than aesthetics but I think it does have to be the way it is.

Having a tall kickboard means your climbing surface is effectively somewhat less than 30deg until you're relatively high, I had a 2ft kickboard on my wall, it gives you some flexibility in setting the problem angle by controlling foot hold height but it does mean falls from the steeper part of the board are bigger which may or may not be ok depending on your padding.

jk

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