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Topic - Pettifers Wall on bolts again?

buzby78 - on 03 Jul 2014

Well not quite...I did a really nice link up this evening that takes in all the best bits of Pettifers (clean bottom groove and overlap) but clipping bolts on neighbouring routes, albeit with a little bit of swing potential at the moment!

This route starts up Slow strain, climbs into Buzooka clipping high the 5th bolt, traverse right into the groove of Pettifers, crank out over the overlap (rather large swing potential here although a strategically placed bolt will help reduce this...) and into Kamikaze, finishing up this.

Pettifers can now be experienced by sport and trad climbers, how good is that!
Post edited at 21:51
Robert Durran - on 03 Jul 2014
In reply to buzby78:

> Pettifer's can now be experienced by sport and trad climbers.

Well, obviously you have not really experienced Pettifer's because the experience centres around really not wanting to fluff the move rightwards out of the groove and then the upper crux on small gear.

Incidentally the bolts which could be clipped on the right from Pettifer's after the move rightwards still need to be moved out of reach.

And any additional bolt should obviously not be clippable from Pettifer's.
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buzby78 - on 04 Jul 2014
In reply to Robert Durran:

> Well, obviously you have not really experienced Pettifer's because the experience centres around really not wanting to fluff the move rightwards out of the groove and then the upper crux on small gear.

I know, was still quite fun though...


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