UKC

One of the reasons climbing walls are popular is that they give the beginner a chance to hang out in wild positions on big holds. Steeper climbing generally doesn't start till around F6a+ (or HVS?) but there are always exceptions; where are they?

I'll name for starters - Vilanova de Meia in Lleida, Catalunya which has some excellent steep rock around grade V.

In reply to LeeWood:

but I can't believe Vilanova is so unique ??

In reply to Jon Stewart:

In my experience, sea cliffs are often best for this, and even severes can be quite steep, especially if limestone (e.g. Gower or Swanage)

In reply to LeeWood:

Orpierre and Chateauvert (Vallon Sourn), both in Provence, France. Some of the best V's I've ever climbed!

In reply to LeeWood:

Thankyou for these ideas. I haven't noted this category of climb sufficiently in the past, but now that my lad is getting bigger and more capable the subject has re-surfaced.

Now to get more focused, if anyone has suggestions for N Wales & Ariége then that could be of more immediate benefit.

In reply to LeeWood:

Too many to mention individual routes at Mt Arapilies! It's renowned for steep and juggy lower grades.

In reply to LeeWood:
Swanage is your steep juggy friend, try some of these:
S: First Corner, Second Corner (both Subluminal)
HS: The Corner (Slippery Ledge) Wall Street (Cormorant Ledge)
VS: Heidelberg Creature, Silhouette Arete, Airy Legs, Old Faithfull (all Boulder Ruckle) Isis, Wessex Hangover (Cattle Troughs) Zo Zo, Batt Crack, Mistaken Identity (Guillemot Ledge)
HVS: Aventura, Finale Groove, Jo (Boulder Ruckle) Quality Street (Cormorant Ledge)
Birthday Treat F5+ is a little bolted gem at Winspit too.

Overseas there are loads of long steep and relatively easy trad routes on Limestone in the Italian Dolomites and I've not been but Kalymnos seems to have a rep for having plenty of steep juggy stuff in the F5 - F6a range.

In reply to LeeWood:
Ah just spotted the North Wales request.
A few suggestions:
Kinberg (Pinfold, Llangollen, VS)
Oxine (Clogwyn y Wenallt, VS)
Noah's Warning VS, Sabre Cut VS, Cemetery Gates HVS/E1 (all Dinas Cromlech)
Orangutang Overhang F6a+ (Australia, Llanberis Slate)

In reply to The Ivanator:

I'll look for that slate suggestion next time I'm in N Wales. Is the 1st pitch of Sabre Cut steep? All I can remember is that desperate offwidth struggle - I did it a looong time ago.

In reply to damowilk:

Australia's a bit of a long shot but I'll keep it in mind thanks

In reply to LeeWood:
Guess it is more the angle of the climbing than the style I was thinking of with Sabre Cut, it is not really akin to steep indoor routes I suppose.
Oxine http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=2317 should definitely fit the bill though and the Slate route I mentioned is fun (technical groove then jughaul through overhangs), Lavaredo is another to look at http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=1689
Some of the routes at Swanage mentioned above would make a trip worthwhile if you aren't put off by the sometimes dubious rock and topouts.

In reply to LeeWood:

Britomartis http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=4348 is a N Wales classic jugfest. I haven't actually done the route, but I've done the E2 that starts up (actually down) it and found the start to be the crux...

In reply to LeeWood:

Outward Bound, Lowman (Haytor, Dartmoor) - short but fun granite?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=26076

In reply to LeeWood:

Did Sunny Corner (HVS) at Bosherston at the weekend. One of the most outrageously steep and exposed pitches for the grade I've ever done - Bridging up an overhanging groove then traversing a hanging slab then up a wall.