UKC

Froggatt pinnacle.Trad bastion?

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 paul mitchell 04 Jul 2014
Should the abseil bolt be removed from Froggatt pinnacle?The VS 5a descent next to the gully was first ascended in 1912; 102 years ago.No bolt there then.
 rocksol 04 Jul 2014
In reply to paul mitchell:

Cannot recall anyone falling off the back of the pinnacle. If you can climb any of the routes other than this one you should be able to reverse down. Of course it should be removed !
 The Pylon King 04 Jul 2014
In reply to paul mitchell:

When was it placed?
 MNA123 04 Jul 2014
In reply to paul mitchell:
Leave it bloody well alone, it's been there donkeys years as far as I know. And yes I am a local and yes I have used the bolt to ab off the pinnacle numerous times and I have also downclimbed (which i found to be rather unpleasant). If it gets removed i'll just go and place another one.
Post edited at 18:14
 jimjimjim 04 Jul 2014
In reply to paul mitchell:

I'm on my way with my battery angle grinder! Will someone help me down?
 Chris the Tall 04 Jul 2014
In reply to paul mitchell:

What would removing the bolt acheive ?
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 04 Jul 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:
It was placed in the mid-1980s. Before that it was normal to ab from a small thread/hole on the north side of the summit, a short way below the top. I'm guessing if the bolt hadn't been there, the thread would have worn through long ago,

Chris
Post edited at 20:27
 Jon Stewart 04 Jul 2014
In reply to paul mitchell:

What would be the point?

If you're going to place a bolt at a trad venue, you need a good justification. Similarly, if you're going to remove fixed gear at one, there has to be a reason and agreement, otherwise it's precisely equivalent vandalism.
 Rick Graham 04 Jul 2014
In reply to Chris Craggs:

> It was placed in the mid-1980s. Before that it was normal to ab from a small thread/hole on the north side of the summit, a short way below the top. I'm guessing if the bolt hadn't been there, the thread would have worn through long ago,

> Chris

Is the "bolt" set in lead in the old thread hole?

So no drilled hole which is why it was accepted in the 80's.
 Rick Graham 04 Jul 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:
>Similarly, if you're going to remove fixed gear at one, there has to be a reason and agreement,

I think Paul is trying to start the debate and agreement.

My 2P. Fix a spare rope to the base of the crag and ab off the far side if you do not like the downclimb.
No fixed gear required, just a bit of ingenuity.
Post edited at 21:09
 Jon Stewart 04 Jul 2014
In reply to Rick Graham:

> I think Paul is trying to start the debate and agreement.

He hasn't suggested a rationale, nor has anyone.

> My 2P. Fix a spare rope to the base of the crag and ab off the far side if you do not like the downclimb.

A good solution, if there hadn't been a bolt there for the last 30 years.
 Mick Ward 04 Jul 2014
In reply to Chris Craggs:

> It was placed in the mid-1980s. Before that it was normal to ab...

You just soloed down, didn't you? A little bit awkward but no big deal (unless my memory's playing tricks on me again!) It's a long time since I've been there.

Mick
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 04 Jul 2014
In reply to Mick Ward:

No, it is in a drilled hole. There is a story behind it that I have retold in the new Eastern Grit (nothing to do with me btw!!).

The climb-down involves reversing a tricky VS 5a, not really that easy,


Chris
In reply to paul mitchell:

The other way off the Pinnacle is via 'Cooke's Leap' which is 'challenging'
In reply to Chris Craggs:

I only did Valkyrie once, in May 1977, and the second half of my logbook description (I won't quote the first half because it's quite big-headed, saying how easy I found it) says: ' Descend (eventually!) when we find curious thread for abseil. My first full-bloodied grit HVS lead.'
 john arran 05 Jul 2014
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Was "full-bloodied" a typo or deliberate? Either way I like it.
In reply to john arran:

Ah ... I hadn't spotted that. That's just how I spelt it in the log book
In reply to john arran:

... and now Google has come to my rescue and shows that it's the correct spelling!
 john arran 05 Jul 2014
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

You must have a very odd Google. I'd get that looked at!
In reply to john arran:

Ah! I see what you mean. It might perhaps have been appropriate had I been bloodied by the climb, but I had very little trouble with it.
 stp 06 Jul 2014
In reply to paul mitchell:

What condition is it in? If its potentially unsafe and could cause an accident then replace it or back it up with another one.
 Rick Graham 06 Jul 2014
In reply to stp:

> What condition is it in? If its potentially unsafe and could cause an accident then replace it or back it up with another one.

What condition is it in? If its potentially unsafe and could cause an accident then remove it or back it up with another one.
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