UKC

Alpine climbing around Andermatt

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Hi,

planning on climbing in the Salbit for a few days this summer. Any other good alpine climbing near Andermatt that's worth a look? The Galenstock looks well worth doing- any info on this? Keen for both big rock and 'classic' alpine stuff, any grade.

Cheers,

Will


 victorclimber 04 Jul 2014
In reply to Will_Thomas_Harris:

lots of stuff round Andermatt but has been a few years since last there and don't know what the Snow Ice is like now ..Albert Heim Hut good Base
 timmeehhhh 04 Jul 2014
In reply to Will_Thomas_Harris:

there are lots of good alpine sport climbs near the Sidelenhutte. The Galengratverschneidung and Niederman route among others.
As for classic alpine stuff, the Sustenhorn east ridge is one I can really recommend.
 alpinist63 05 Jul 2014
In reply to Will_Thomas_Harris:

Hi
the 'Eisbrecher' (6b) on the Graue Wand, above the Albert Heim Hut is excellent (, better than Hammerbruch on the Salbit for exemple).

nice camping at the car park above Tiefenbach restaurant, where the trail for the hut starts. the hut is only about 40 min from there, so it's best to start from the car. the sun hits the face only at around 9.30
Nolens Volens on the west face of Gross Bielenhorn is also very good, about the same difficulty as Eisbrecher, but more bolts. ( if it's cold, don't start too early, as the hard technical climbing is low on the route)
In the Goeschenen Valley, it's worth to have a look at Gandschijen : Gatsch-Route ( mostly 5c) is very nice (long cracks, no bolts) as well as the classical South pillar
the Galenstock Verschneidung is nice, but make sure to abseil down back this way after the summit as the walk back to the car along the normal route is very long and not interesting
and , of course, Eldorado on the Grimsel pass, only about half an hour drive away from Tiefenbach, with Motörhead, Septumania. etc..
so, lots of great routes to do
If the weather turns bad, Ticino is not far away
 timmeehhhh 05 Jul 2014
In reply to alpinist63:

30m to the right from the Galengrat verschneidung is a luxurious abseil piste equipped with metal platforms and chains.

The start is indicated here with a red dot
http://www.summitpost.org/galengrat-verschneidung-overview/636560/c-636554

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...