/ bolts chopped at wilton

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efrance24234 - on 05 Jul 2014
Looks like someones chopped the bolts above white slabs blunt.
switch - on 05 Jul 2014
In reply to efrance24234:

Nick did say he was going to remove them. Have they gone from above Supercrack too? Takes courage to admit a mistake - good work. Time to move on.
efrance24234 - on 05 Jul 2014
In reply to switch:

No. The ones above super crack are still there. I think they should stay there too as the top is unstable and they replace the tree that was used to lower off from.
astley007 - on 06 Jul 2014
In reply to switch:
Was in Wilton Today, to remove the bolts from WSB, somebody beat me too it
Can I have my hangers back please?
Was good to see it being shunted today, will help to keep it clean and hopefully it will start to get led
Left the bolts in Supercrack, this belay is now being also used for Sobeit now a fantastic E2 which has been well cleaned, and Rememberance Corner VS.
Pity the rest of Grey wall doesnt look anywhere near as clean.
Was good to see several other parties climbing there as well.
Wombat chimney had a reasonable clean today as did Max (the start of this seems hard now 6a?)
Just needs more climbers there, and spending a little time cleaning routes..just a shame that it wont happen.
Cheers
Nick B

cheek to the rock - on 06 Jul 2014
In reply to astley007:

My mate tried sobeit today and there is a big chunk missing at the top bit where the chimney bit is. Matching rock at the bottom.
astley007 - on 06 Jul 2014
In reply to cheek to the rock:

one hard 5c move there!! small footholds and a poor lock rewards you with a good jug and cam placement, no harder than the more technical 5c move on the lower wall..just needs a little more "thuggery?"
Hope he enjoyed it...and how clean it was compared to other routes?
Cheers
Nick B
cheek to the rock - on 06 Jul 2014
In reply to astley007:

I didn't get on it. Cliff couldn't finish it because of that chunk missing.He said it might need re-grading. I dont think I would of got past the second break:)
Mick Ward - on 06 Jul 2014
In reply to astley007:

> Just needs more climbers there, and spending a little time cleaning routes..just a shame that it wont happen.

It would be great if it did. The guys at Pex lovingly clean the place each year before the scallies trash it yet again. And, no disrespect to Pex, but Wilton, what a crag! And no scallies that I've seen.

You've got me hungering to go back. Last time, after a mere 30 years absence, somebody did Wambat Chimney and some old bugger huffed, "It was only E1 when I did it!" I utterly failed to resist the, "Well it was only HVS when I did it..." riposte. If looks could have killed!

Ah, the fun you can have in Lancs...

Mick
cheek to the rock - on 06 Jul 2014
In reply to astley007:

Im going to clean blackout friday, as im doing it.Plan on anchoring the mrs to one of the boulders at the bottom.
astley007 - on 06 Jul 2014
In reply to Mick Ward: Hi Mick,
Some local scallies around today, selfies (whatever they are?) on top of the prow, they did walk the long way round!! and families picking bilberries..it a great place,,great views, and the climbing outside of the prow..fantastic with a little cleaning.
When you "up norf" next? will put you up, and give you a hard be fair time in the quarries.
Will even teach you how to place a bolt belay!! (tongue in cheek!!)
Cheers and take care
Nick B
ps didnt fell HVS today..must have been high gravity day!!

astley007 - on 06 Jul 2014
In reply to cheek to the rock:

Hi There
Fantastic, another quality Wilton VS, wish there were more climbers in the area like you.
Let me know whats the route like, one pitch rather than two? does it need a belay to split it?
Any quality pics would also be great
Cheers
Nick B
GeoffM - on 06 Jul 2014
In reply to efrance24234:

Can't understand why anyone would want to clean max, White slabs ect. They are done many times a year. It's equal to cleaning Dawn or Ann

Cleaning the allotment end would be more fruitful than tampering with trade routes
cheek to the rock - on 06 Jul 2014
In reply to astley007:

I will be doing it in one.Im expecting it to be a drag,but i cant see the Mrs wanting any part of climbing up to that ledge.Ive got to rig a ground anchor then one at about head height so i can hang the belay at waist height.Im not sure how that's gonna work out yet.
efrance24234 - on 07 Jul 2014
In reply to cheek to the rock:

Did blackout the other day. Its doesnt need cleaning really.. mabe the top out but even thats alright
cheek to the rock - on 07 Jul 2014
In reply to efrance24234:

The traverse looks like someone's got a grow on ;)
dave mann - on 07 Jul 2014
In reply to efrance24234:

I cleaned Cheat it was looking well filthy but its pristine now.
efrance24234 - on 08 Jul 2014
In reply to dave mann:

Might clean dawn next time im there.
Jordan on 08 Jul 2014
In reply to efrance24234:

I've heard the pit and the pendulum, E6 6c, has had a clean.
Phil Kelly - on 08 Jul 2014
In reply to dave mann:
> (In reply to efrance24234)
>
> I cleaned Cheat it was looking well filthy but its pristine now.

+Like
Paul Crusher R - on 08 Jul 2014
In reply to Jordan:

I've heard this has got your name on it..! :)

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=591860&lgn=19247
Marcus Buckley - on 08 Jul 2014
In reply to astley007:

Have also been to Wilton in the past week, didn't chop the bolts so can't return your hangers. Had a look at WSB from the path and you can call me chicken if you like, but speaking as someone who has spent time in A & E due to falling rock, I wouldn't even belay under someone planning to top out on that route. The block hanging over the top of the crag looks like an express train to the afterlife!

Jordan on 08 Jul 2014
In reply to Paul R:

Looks good Paul, well done getting that done, I've never climbed on that wall. Willing to give it a go. Loose Top out with a rope exasperating the problem does not sound good though..

"Have also been to Wilton in the past week, didn't chop the bolts so can't return your hangers. Had a look at WSB from the path and you can call me chicken if you like, but speaking as someone who has spent time in A & E due to falling rock, I wouldn't even belay under someone planning to top out on that route. The block hanging over the top of the crag looks like an express train to the afterlife!"
Think that's a fair point!
GeoffM - on 08 Jul 2014
In reply to Marcus Buckley:

You can always climb round it to the right.
Both routes climb between the blocks. I have never had a problem with it and it gets climbed over many times and probably looks worse than it is

That's not to say it could go someday but I have seen much worse at other places

GeoffM - on 08 Jul 2014
In reply to Jordan:

It needed it if has, hardish start and the move right at the top needs commitment.
Not sure if the peg has been replaced.
ads.ukclimbing.com
dave mann - on 09 Jul 2014
In reply to Marcus Buckley:

If you feel that the block adds danger to it then I say welcome to climbing. what about the undercut flake on masterspy have you seen how that is keyed in? The block that forms sobeit and remembrance corner is worrying too, but hey ho thats climbing for you if you dont like it choose another route that suites you.

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