UKC

So I've posted various threads about my wish to one day do this iconic route - never thought I'd be good enough - but saturday I got straight on it on lead (first route of the day - no warm up as I was so nervous ) and got it on lead clean first go !!!
So happy, for me it's a life tick and my climbing will never be the same

In reply to Ciderslider:
Like

In reply to Ciderslider:
Brilliant, I have been climbing a lot longer than you and I am still holding myself back from this one! Well done. I think your approach to it will have helped you, whether it was planned or not. A lot of my strongest leads have been "first of the day, no warm up, not really the plan but just needed to get on with it"
(also a lot of may failures fall under this category too )

In reply to Ciderslider:

Good effort, I love to hear of a life route going down. What's next?

In reply to Phill Mitch:

Really not sure - I'm gonna do Cemetery Gates as soon as it's a classic (and e1) and also much easier than FBD - oh and sloth - but after that not sure - would like to log some more hvs and a few e1's

In reply to Ciderslider:



Consider Suicide Wall at Cratcliffe. I dogged P1 and "only" seconded P2 but I still class it as the best route I've been on in overall terms of overall everything. If you really MTFU it could be simpler as a single pitch. I'll say no more given that I have not led it cleanly.

In reply to Ciderslider:

Nice one. That's a big one on my wish-list too and I will do it one day, but I'm only climbing HS for now...
In the meantime it will continue to literally stand over me every time I'm at Stanage!

In reply to Ciderslider:

YES!!!! Good effort mate,

In reply to deacondeacon:

Nice :-D

It really is one of those climbs - I first did it in '95, did in a number of times in the following years including solo... but even today it sticks in my head as one of the real stand out routes.

If I was to get on it tomorrow I think I would be nervous starting up the ramp...

Cheers
LD

In reply to Ciderslider:

Good effort!
Others you might like...
Saxon HVS at Kenijack Cornwall
Valkyrie (both of them) Roaches & Froggett
The Peapod HVS Curbar

In reply to Ciderslider:

Well done, I'd really like to get on it too at some point.

In reply to Ciderslider:

Nice one - my mate and I spoke to you at the top (and you were looking proper chuffed)!

In reply to jetstream:

Thanks m8 I was ! still can't believe I've done it

In reply to Ciderslider:
Well done Mark.

In reply to Lurking Dave:

Yep, I found it really intimidating and waited until I was pretty solid at E2 before getting on it.
To get it clean when your hardest onsight is HVS is something you should be well proud of.

In reply to Ciderslider:

Well done, intimidating route but great. I had a similar outing on Saturday, climbing Chequers Crack.

In reply to Fatclimber:

Cheers Steve

In reply to Ciderslider:

Was a pleasure holding your ropes mate! Was a brilliant lead - especially for a cheesy cider drinking, choss climbing southerner

In reply to Ciderslider:

Hi Mark,

Have just seen this - brilliant!!! I knew you had it in you. Grit routes can be so intimidating; it can be really hard leaving the ground. But you did... and you fought the good fight... and it worked. Fantastic.

If you're feeling good (and it sounds as though you are), go for The Gates. Not wonderfully protected at first but relatively easy climbing. Then pretty bomber gear all the way. The hardest part is probably reading the rock so you hit the jugs to best advantage. And resting. And resisting the impulse to place too much gear. But all that Swanage experience will stand you in good stead. And you'll remember the hanging belay forever.

Well done, mate. Well done. I've not been as pleased as this since opening Pete's email and learning he'd done the FA of Lifeforce. Well done.

Mick

In reply to Ciderslider:

Well done. It is indeed an intimidating must-do classic. Also superb - the Tippler is similar for its intimidating roof and technical move to get through it. It is "hard at the grade" giving it added cred as well.

But whoever said Suicide Wall has made a good call and it could feel E1 in a oner.

In reply to Ciderslider:

Good effort!

In reply to Ciderslider:

Good on you. There's nothing like nailing a route that you've had on your list for a long time. Here's to lots more.

In reply to Ciderslider:

Very well done. Did you sneak in the lie-down rest?

In reply to Ciderslider:

Congrats, it's defo among the top 5 HVS's in the Peak

In reply to Owen W-G:


Solid E1.

In reply to charley:

Thanks, Charley boy - now we just need to man up and get some really hard grit routes done mate

In reply to Ciderslider:

Skip Cemetery Gates and go straight for Left Wall!

It was on my to do list, but getting weaker and weaker out here.

In reply to Ciderslider:

What's the next big goal?

I'd suggest Five Finger Exercise, The Rasp, Regent Street as ones to aim for.

In reply to The Ivanator:

Cheers Ivan - I think Swanage is making me strong

In reply to Offwidth:

No, but the bloke who did it after me did - really funny to watch I did jam my left upper arm in for a mini rest before the final pull up.

In reply to jezb1:

Hey Jez where are you mate ??? I only want to get to E1 then I'll be more than happy

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Hi Jon, don't think I've really got one yet - as I never thought I'd be good enough to do FBD. I only really want to climb a few E1's if ever get good enough, and maybe get solid at leading HVS.

In reply to Ciderslider:


Just go for the many E1s that are easier than FBD!

In reply to Coel Hellier:


I would be grateful if you could list some (pref Peak as I'm up there in a couple of weeks) and would just really love to be able to claim an E1

In reply to Ciderslider:

Hi mate, you've asked me for some similar style recommendations by PM but I thought it'd be best to put them in the thread.

This is a list of similar style E1's that a climber onsighting FBD shouldn't have too much trouble with (or at least be able to have a good go at).

Stanage Popular
5.9 finish
The Tippler
Goodbye Toulouse
Exit Stage Left
The Link

Stanage Plantation
The Two Charlies

Stanage High Neb
Jeepers Creepers
Kellys Overhang

All good routes, all at Stanage and all at a similar difficulty to FBD. They all have the added advantage that you're probably not going to end up in the Northern General if it all goes wrong

I'd recommend Goodbye Toulouse, it's basically the same route as FBD but gets the right grade

In reply to Ciderslider:

Sticking to Stanage: easier than FBD:

Millsom's Minion
Morrison's Redoubt
Namenlos (if you have the right guide listing it as E1, and yes you are allowed the obvious cams)
Gullible's Travels (you need small cams)
Mississippi Variant Direct (one hard move off a ledge, easier if tall).
The Link (one intimidating steep bit, but easier than FBD).
Death and Night and Blood (slightly bold at the top, doddle if tall).

Easier than FBD but somewhat bold:

Kirkus's Corner
Easter Rib
Saliva

OK if you have decent stamina, perhaps similar to FBD:

Left Unconquerable

Lots more at other crags!

In reply to Ciderslider:


Working in Kurdistan, lots of potential lines here but lots of stuff that goes bang too...

In reply to Ciderslider:

I'd say about 60% of the Stanage Popular E1s are easier than FBD:

- Easter Rib
- Kirkus Corner
- Morrison's Redoubt
- Saliva

all complete paths for the grade.

- Mississippi Variant Direct
- Acheron
- Gullible's Travels

a bit more technical, solid E1

- The Tippler
- Desperation
- Dark Continent

High in the grade, harder than FBD.

In reply to Coel Hellier:


I think my favourites for high quality, indisputable E1 ticks would be:

Moyer's Buttress
Hawkwing
Safety Net
Wrong Hand Route (quite hard!)

In reply to deacondeacon:

Thanks mate - hopefully back up in a couple of weeks so might try to lose my E grade cherry

In reply to Coel Hellier:

Cheers mate

In reply to jezb1:

Stay safe mate and watch where you put those bloody great feet of yours
when u back ??

In reply to deacondeacon:


This is what's so odd about FBD getting HVS, the routes on both sides are easier yet graded E1...

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Cheers Jon - I know it's a bit pathetic - but I just want an E1

In reply to Ciderslider:

Go out and do all the easy ones on the trot - a great ego boost!

Then the next day, go to Hen Cloud and try the HVSs...

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Must admit I seconded Kirkus's just after FBD and thought it was much easier - although might feel a bit bold on the easier top section on lead

In reply to Ciderslider:

2 week break end of July so off to the alps then back out again...

Did you get your CC membership sorted?

In reply to jezb1:




No mate, I checked the small print and both proposer and seconder have to be in for two years - gonna try to get to Wales soon to do Cemetery gates

In reply to Ciderslider:

Flying Buttress is E1 in the definitive, the previous definitive, in VG in 69% of UKC votes and the original Rockfax. As a genuine onsight it's mid-grade E1 IMHO. If you dont get the E1 tick with those stats you need to be leading really tough ones to be sure so maybe the likes of Tower Chimney, The Mangler, The Unprintable etc are next for you.

In reply to Offwidth:

agree with the above, theres probably 20 threads where I've chimed in on the same subject. happy to say it again.

In reply to Offwidth:


I haven't done it, and won't do it, but that has to one of the country's biggest sandbags. The logbooks show a staggering proportion of dnf's etc, mostly from E4 leaders!

In reply to Offwidth:


Totally agree.

[To Mark] Could you please just give yourself the tick and enjoy The Gates as your second Extreme? And then - horrors - join the establishment??

Mick (the eternal rebel)

In reply to Mick Ward:


FBD is E1 but Cemetry Gates is closer to VS!

In reply to Ciderslider:

well done. i've still not summoned up the courage to get on that one.

In reply to Coel Hellier:

i agree with all those routes except gullible's travels. took me ages to work out how to do it.

In reply to Jon Stewart:

I seconded The Unprintable when it was given HVS. (T'was only when working on Peak Rock that I learned why it was thus entitled.) My leader - who shall remain nameless - was (and I'm being kind) a technical dunce... who was brilliant at awkward/offwidth stuff. I had a theory that this fazes the rest of us but he had an advantage in not being fazed - because he hadn't any technique anyway. (OK, it's just a theory.)

But The Unprintable seemed OK - honest. And it was our warm-up on a very long Stanage day. At the end, umpteen routes later, we ended up back where we started and my 'mate' (please note the parenthesis) looked up at The Dangler and leered. "I'm a bit knackered," I demurred. Sensing blood in the water, he couldn't resist going for, "We should really do it..."

It might be kinder to fast forward. My oh so hustling 'mate' ended up swinging in space (seconding). "You f*cking b*stard!" he yelled. The biter bit. Stuff you shouldn't do. Hustle people.

Mick

In reply to Jon Stewart:

We must respectfully agree to disagree. How many VS soloists would be happy soloing The Gates?

Mick

In reply to Mick Ward:


I dunno, but if I was local I think the temptation might become irresistible.

In reply to Mick Ward:

Ok Mick, think I just need to stop worrying about E1 and just carry on enjoying my recent spell of luck before it runs out. Regardless of grade I still can't believe I just got on it and did it straight off without any major problem ( its flying buttress direct FFS)
It almost just seems like some other Ciderslider from a parallel universe did it - FBD flashed - surely that can't be right. I think that I'm gonna have to do it again ( but this time a bit slower so I can savour it).
Maybe then it will actually sink in !

In reply to Ciderslider:

Mark, I'd strongly suggest that you don't do it again, at least for a year or two. When you do grit routes well, you're almost always massively psyched and in the right body position. You go back and, in your mind, your top effort becomes the base line - not the top effort (if this makes sense). You can have a real mare - even if you're actually climbing better.

You were psyched, you did the deed, it wasn't luck, you've just hit form. Get on other routes. Yes, of course, form can come and go but it's not as though you're not capable of these routes. You are capable of them - and, in truth, have been for probably a year or two now. You just didn't really trust yourself - which is entirely understandable with iconic grade breakthroughs. But now you are beginning to trust yourself.

For the time being, just stick to relatively safe stuff at HVS/E1 and you'll be fine. You'll have the occasional off-day; we all do. If you have one, don't let it bother you. It's the overall improvement trend which matters. Just get on the next route. There's more great routes out there than any of us will ever do.

Mick

In reply to Mick Ward:

I'm going to try and lure him away from Stanage on one of the days he's next up and take him to Curbar...

In reply to Jon Stewart:

I agree its a sandbag for most but not that big. Dnfs from E4 leaders just show bad days or skill gaps.

In reply to charley:

It was amazing when I decided to check the remaining VS lines and HVS lines I'd not yet done in the draft Curbar script how many of my regular partners dematerialised . Liam, who helped me most, shot up 3 E grades soon after we had done.

In reply to Ciderslider:

Nice one, that route is on my list too - I've been unceremoniously spat off once already.

Other best routes that I've been on in the HVS getting on for E1 bracket:

Bachelor's left hand - Hen Cloud
Suicide Wall - Cratcliffe (good call from someone above and spectacular in one pitch)
The Link - Stanage Popular

In reply to charley:

No Charley never, I love Stanage ! and I've heard tell that the routes at Curbar are dead 'ard ! oh, ok then ..... any good pubs nearby.. that's more important than the dangerous scary climbing stuff ...... ummm beer

What we gonna do at Curbar then yoof ????

In reply to leon:

I was like that mate, the hardest thing is just getting brave enough to get on it .... as long as you get that cam in the lip it's safe as houses

In reply to Jimbo C:

How was the link ????

In reply to Mick Ward:

Agreed. Routes often feel harder second time round, probably because you're expecting to find them easier.

In reply to Mick Ward:


Good advice Mick.

I'd done FBD many times, including soloing it about half a dozen times. One lazy summer afternoon, I thought I'd just finish off with a nice solo stroll up my party piece - fell off the lip and broke my ankle.

With hindsight, I was lucky

In reply to Goucho:

bloody hell !!! - i'll leave it then

In reply to Goucho:

Shit, you were lucky! A mate of mine, Adrian Cooper, fell off it soloing, also on a lazy summer afternoon. (He reckoned he was groggy from hayfever). I went over to solo it and saw a big pool of blood below. I think he hit his head. He recovered, although he later died of cancer. He was a great guy. I miss him.

You get so blase about routine solos. I used to do all the VS/HVS cracks at Ilkley endless times in the 70s. One day, 40 feet up, I realised I'd taken both hands out of a jamming crack at the same time. They went back in again at the speed of light!

Soloed that silly slab at Frogatt whose name escapes me now (the is it HVS or E1) once a year for nearly 25 years. Last time, it didn't feel right. Reversed. Back up again. Still didn't feel right. The little voice inside (which is never wrong) said, "Walk away." For once I listened.

Gotta keep listening to that little voice inside which we all have. I'd been ignoring it of late until last Sunday when, 30 seconds after getting off the ab rope, there was a huge crash and several life disposing blocks landed just where I'd been. The little voice said, "See, I f*cking told you so. Go home. Now." I went home.

Gotta keep listening to that little voice. It keeps us alive.

Mick

In reply to Mick Ward:

Yes, that little voice can sometimes be a life saver.

In reply to Ciderslider:

Well done mate. I remember the thread when you were talking about it. Glad to see you've finally got it done. Now crack on and tick all the other classic grit E1s while you're at it.

In reply to Mick Ward:

Mick listen to the little voice "Buy Mark a beer "

In reply to mattrm:

Thanks, I'll have to grow a pair first - E1 sounds a bit scary

In reply to Ciderslider:

Mark, it's physically scary if you can hurt yourself. It's psychologically scary if you're facing uncertainty (e.g. "Can I climb E1?") Don't confuse the two. Yes, they can overlap but in essence they're different.

Many years ago Colin Mortlock made a really important distinction between something like apparent risk and true risk. The former might be facing a horrendous lob into space; the latter clambering around on easy angled polished rock, with crap gear and big ledges to hit below. Often feels less committing but actually far more potentially dangerous. (I'm probably bastardising Mortlock's work; if so, my apologies.)

A lot of Swanage VSs are probably more dangerous than most E1s on grit, e.g those little wall routes we did at Subluminal with rubbish gear or the big stuff with loose holds, etc.

Right now, stick to well protected stuff at HVS/E1. Don't commit without bomber gear. Trust your ability. And you'll be OK. And I'll even buy you beer.

Mick

In reply to Mick Ward:

Thanks Mick, good advice as always - that was kind of the plan i've got. I will hopefully get to meet up with you soon - and I'll buy you a beer (or three)

In reply to Ciderslider:


The Link is a great route, it's in my top 5 grit routes so far. It has more than 1 crux with good rests in between. The steep part is rather steep but on good holds and it's well protected.

My second reckons it's easier then FBD.

In reply to Ciderslider:

Well done, its one on my list 'to do before I die/stop' I climb stuff thats supposed to be harder than that but its so intimidating (well i think so! )

excellent effort!

In reply to Jimbo C:


Great route and far easier than FBD. Amazing that it hadn't been climbed before 1974...

In reply to Ciderslider:


Good route, crap name

In reply to Michael Gordon:


It does what it says on the tin, linking the start and finish of Congo Corner with 3m of new climbing,


Chris

In reply to robal:

Cheers m8, I think looking at what you've done you'd cruise it - the hardest part is actually getting on the route.

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Cheers Jon, I am back up to Derbyshire in a couple of weeks and hope to do the link/congo corner - also thinking about long tall sally