UKC

hello,

so I've been to wales climbing 3 times before, all the times have been doing long routes in the pass and also some cragging at tremadog.

I am taking friends this weekend, all of them want to climb on the Sunday at tremadog and so I know where to go and what to do there.

however the Saturday I have one partner only and he doesn't really want to do any 'big' things, i.e. multipitch, which is a bit shit as that's what I really enjoy however I know its a partnership etc so the question is:

What is the slate sport like, is there any lower grade stuff thats worth it?

Single pitch stuff in the pass. are there any particularly good areas we can climb HVS comfortably. I've always wanted a punt at cenotaph corner but I'm unsure of what else is around there....

Any other recommendations as to what to do, I guess we could ditch of the pass and just stay at tremadog...

thanks
Rob

In reply to robal:
dinorwig quarries has loads of stuff, some bolted, some trad, some a mixture of the two. I'd be tempted to try and twist your mates arm into trying something easy, about 2/3 pitches. most of the walk offs in the pass are pretty easy for a confident Severe climber and most routes are no longer than 3 pitches and that's usually because the wander around.

Failing tht, you could take a trip to Holyhead Mountain. some classic routes there at most grades. A bit of a sun trap too.

In reply to robal:

Why does your partner not like Multi Pitch, if it`s because of the walk ins, which perhaps have been their experience in the Lakes or Scotland the pass may prove an antidote.

In reply to higherclimbingwales:

thanks for that, I've not heard of holyhead mountain before, it looks pretty good, I'm guessing that I'm being lazy/stupid but are there any decent sea cliffs about there, thats something we've never done before....

My partner isnt kean on multipitch because of fear really, he's not massively comfortable at high heights, he's alright at millstone but thats because he can top out in 5 mins or less, he doesnt like leading due to the fear of falling, but at the same time is ace at bouldering! its an odd one really!

In reply to robal:


no.

In reply to robal:

The Grochan is the place for single pitch HVS in the Pass. Brant Direct, Kaisergebirge Wall, Karwendel Wall ...

In reply to Jon Stewart:

is Gogarth not any good?

Thanks for the tip on the grochan, I'll take a look!

In reply to robal:

I have come across that. If they ever fancy trying Multi in a more friendly setting with easy walk offs, try the Moelwyns near Tan Y Griasu, but no point pushing anyone to do something they don`t want to do.

In reply to robal:



It`s amazing, but not with your mate I would say.

In reply to SCrossley:

is it an intimidating place?

In reply to robal:

Yes

In reply to robal:


Sorry, it was a silly sarcastic reply. Gogarth is in many ways THE major sea cliff venue of the UK - home to hundreds of adventurous multi-pitch routes up to 100m. Here's an article about it:

http://www.planetfear.com/articles/06_Gogarth_Bay_697.html

It's probably not a great choice though: it's one of the scariest crags around, with even the single pitch routes that don't drop straight into the sea (an area called Upper Tier) being accessed by slightly dodgy scrambles, being on weird, sometimes suspect rock often covered in sea grass (the Gogarth "green pubes"). Gogarth tends to involve spectaular abseils or sea-level traverses at low-tide to get to the routes, and once you're on them, sometimes there is often no other way out. Some of the cliffs are made of disintegrating, crumbly, cheese rather than what most people would call "rock".

Gogarth has some of the most amazing climbing in the UK, but it's a place you need to go well prepared for. That said, there is one cliff that has a popular 2 pitch VS (Lighthouse Arete) on solid rock with a straightforward 60m abseil to get to it - lots of people who aren't up for a full-bodied Gogarth adventure do that route. Although I wouldn't advise it for a boulderer who's scared of heights!

In reply to robal:

Again: the Grochan. I did Brant Direct last year and it was ace.

In reply to Jon Stewart:

ah right ok, well I guess that's not really suitable.

We've been to Portland together before and that was tip top however it sounds like Gogarth is a completely different kettle of fish, and relatively unsuitable.

I guess we'll stick to the pass. I climbed up to crib goch last year, it was a day that I dont think i'll ever forget but I doubt he'd be keen for the massive walk in and then the chossy nature of the climbing.

so maybe the grochan or I'll have a look at moelwyns as suggested!

thanks all its much appreciated.

In reply to robal:
The Cromlech is brilliant, cenotaph is quite hard E1 but cemetery gates is easier and then you've got things like cobweb crack, noahs warning, sabre cut which are short 2 pitch routes.

There is lots on the slate and grochan is a good call.

Surely tremadog is pretty crap for single pitch...

In reply to Si dH:

hi,

yes the single pitch stuff that I've done there is not ace but the group I'm going with are wildly inexperienced (apart from my partner for Saturday) so something easy going and relatively pleasant is the way forward.

Is cemetery gates on the same side as grochan? my geography of the pass is awful, I thought it was up on the right as you go up through the pass but now I'm thinking its on the left.....

In reply to robal:

The Cromlech (same side as Grochan) is a great crag, but it's not massively user-friendly. Getting to Cemetery Gates is quite an awkward scramble, but the route once you get on it is a ladder of jugs in a spectacular position, absolutely brilliant.

Wouldn't be my first choice for people who are "wildly inexperienced".

For really relaxed single-pitch climbing with minimal faff, Holyhead Mountain and the slate quarries would be my choices, although there is stuff in the Pass if you choose wisely.

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Not to mention that the belay on Cemetery Gates is probably the last place that someone who is scared of heights would want to spend any amount of time.

Clogwyn y Tarw in Ogwen might be an option for the OP too - easy access, plenty of one-pitch routes around VS-HVS.

In reply to Jon Stewart:

thanks chaps, the more inexperienced people are not coming on the first day so we should be ok to do something a little more exciting, the second day should be easy going.

cemetery gates sounds ace, I just read that you can do it in one 45m run, how is this or should I split it into two?

it currently looks like the weather might well be crapping out on us too!

In reply to robal:

In that case the Cromlech would be a good place to head on the first day I reckon. There's not much point CG splitting it into 2 pitches, it's one of those daft "traditions" best ignored. Hope the weather stays OK.