UKC

Just looking for another little crag for evenings

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1616

never paid this one any thought until now, just concerned it will be either extremely dirty or not worth the effort any thoughts?

In reply to scott quinn:

Given its aspect, and the fact no-one has logged any ascents on here since 1990, it might be in need of some major cleaning.

In reply to scott quinn:

I climbed there once in the mid 1980s. The routes felt quite hard for their grades. I seem to remember the routes looking quite dirty even then which was only a year or two after the first ascents.

In reply to scott quinn:

I don't think it'll get any evening sun, if that matters to you.

In reply to Bob:


Pretty much my experience of the place too!

In reply to scott quinn:

did needle couple of years ago on very wet day - had to wade thigh deep across field to get Oak Howe cottage - i really enjoyed it -severe

In reply to John Kelly:

I do believe that was possibly Colin Kirkus`s last climb.

In reply to scott quinn:

Climbed there in the 90's. Couldn't get through a holly tree on an e1 but did follow a friend up a dirty E3.....haven't been back!

In reply to SCrossley:

I'm guessing not first ascent by kirkus?

my 1950 guide doesn't mention first ascentionist, 2013 guide just says ascended pre 1909??? - no mention of by who

In reply to scott quinn:

Given that its in the recent Langdale guide, maybe it was checked and cleaned up a bit for that?

In reply to Bob:

I noticed a few ascents were by J Daly & K Phizaclea - usually under graded in my opinion, those two have had me swearing a couple of times!

Don't really mind cleaning routes, but if they are nothing special I wont bother. Might go give it a look one evening on my own rather than drag a friend up with ropes / rack etc.

Did that the other day in the duddon (Foss How) I don't think my climbing partner has forgiven me yet..

Thanks for the in-sight!

In reply to scott quinn:

Well John Daly is a pretty tall chap and Keith is well, good!

Didn't think there was much at Foss Howe beyond my May the Foss be with You (picture #5 here - http://bobwightman.co.uk/climb/slideshow.php?s=lakes_extreme ) and an E5 of Al Phizacklea's

In reply to Bob:

Slightly related. Side Pike has some great little routes, visited a few times in recent years. Unfortunately the most recent visit showed much more moss than before. However, in these conditions it doesn't really affect the climbing and is easily removed - please keep the routes in use.
DC

In reply to John Kelly:

No not first ascent. I think he was stopping at the Robertson Lamb, climbed the needle, went off to war and was killed.

In reply to Bob:

John Daly blamed Keith when a friend of mine told him he should consider us mortals when grading routes! Either way they are both extremely strong climbers.

Yeah there are only 3 routes may the foss e4 6b & rough diamond e5 6b, they are the two I went up for mainly the e4 crack & a punt on the e5 they were absolutely filthy! there is another e3 line there but its very poor.

Really nice little wall though planning on going back and giving them a decent scrub.

In reply to Dave Cumberland:

Interesting I was going to climb on sidepike on Sunday but went to Lower Falcon instead - Will make sure I pay that one a visit!

In reply to John Kelly:


Severe - that's quite a grade for crossing a field.

In reply to scott quinn:

Morning Crag. Good routes.

In reply to The Pylon King:


They didn't even clean or check a 2-star VDiff on a relatively popular crag so I doubt they had time to bother with Oak Howe

In reply to scott quinn:

I don't know if Al had cleaned up MTFBWY prior to our visit but I led it on-sight and it was clean (enough) then.

In reply to Simon Caldwell:
It is a rather big job to check all the routes!

The FRCC seem to have neglected to mention & or include some crags in the new Langdale guide, things like Blea crag which ok...this may have plans be included in a different area.

-But-

Crinkle gill? a few 1 & 2 star routes missed out due to its vegetated state? seems a shame to not include it for completeness & history.

Sure I counted 5 crags missing cant remember now.

In reply to Bob:

No idea Bob he may have done, I noticed the three routes which you Al & another who I've forgot where put up with at least a weeks difference MTFBWY being the last. Could be wrong!

I was getting a face full of dirt & moss whilst trying to claw my way up digging out cracks etc. Wouldn't take long to clean at all - so steep!

In reply to scott quinn:

I thought MTFBWY was the first by some time (need to check in the guide) Is the E5 called Rough Diamond or something similar?

In reply to Bob:
Yeh rough diamond, I might be muddling them up. I've not got the guide on me I'm relying on my poor memory. It would make more sense to be the first (MTFBWY) its the most obvious line!


Did you & Al ever look at the headwall on thrang close?

In reply to scott quinn:

Doesn't ring any bells with me. Al may have done, he investigated most of the minor crags in Dunnerdale. The only crag I had any significant input in to developing was Far Hill Crag above Seathwaite Tarn.

In reply to Bob:
Might ask Al or just have a look, its quite a large crag with one recorded route - Gurt Thrang - "perfect for the insane" loose rock not much gear. Sounds delightful! In the close is a big slightly overhanging headwall which looks to be featured enough to climb at a reasonable grade.

Seems daft it hasn't been done, usually a reason...

Keep trying to get up to far hill the rock looks amazing!

In reply to scott quinn:


I know. I've managed to do everything within my grade on the Yorkshire crags I've written up, around 100 routes, but the walk-ins are ever so slightly longer in the Lakes!

If restricted in time and resources though I'd have thought that at least the starred routes (excluding trade routes) would have been looked at.

In reply to Rog Wilko:
the field was definately severe, once walked from sticklebarn to campsite, involed a swim across a field and would merit VS (killed my camera to boot)

In reply to SCrossley:


you've inspired me - i'll give 'lets go climbing a go'

In reply to Simon Caldwell:


shoddy