UKC

The Grim Jim finish (Cromlech) + other recommendations

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 charley 08 Jul 2014
I'm heading back to North Wales next week and looking for some route suggestions, mainly around Llanberis for a (pretty solid-ish) HVS leader and maybe some routes to push my grade a bit. Climbed Brant Direct & Spectre last time which were brilliant.

Also climbed Cemetery Gates and had a quick look at the direct finish. From the part I could see, it looked okay and attemptable. My thinking is that if I can't get up it I can just go back to the ledge and finish up CG without turning it into a major epic.

Has anyone here climbed Grim Jim? Not looking for beta really just wondering if it's a route to attempt if you're pushing your grade or if I should try something else. Don't mind taking a whipper as long as there's some solid gear to stop myself or my belayer getting into trouble.

Also hoping to get onto Cenotaph Corner & Ivy Sepulchre and weirdly even Left Wall is tempting me although think that'll have to wait for another trip until I can build up some strength and stamina as noticed last time my fitness is letting me down on these long pitches.

Oh and the crack on the start of SS Special looked really appealing just not sure about the top half so going to have a closer look at that.

Any other recommendations or must do routes (including low grade classics)?



 Cake 08 Jul 2014
In reply to charley:

Noah's Warning, VS, at The Cromlech was very good. I'd have thought a great warm up for the Corner.
 John2 08 Jul 2014
In reply to charley:

I think the Grim Jim finish is better than the normal one. It's not a great deal harder, and it's well protected. You can also string it together with the first pitch, and avoid the belay.
OP charley 08 Jul 2014
In reply to charley:

Thanks guys, will take a look at Noah's Warning. As you say could be a good warm-up. Thanks for the info on Grim Jim too, think I'll give it a go if I'm feeling good on the day - It looked like a more natural finish to CG so would be nice to try...
 Tom Last 08 Jul 2014
In reply to charley:

I've climbed Grim Jim by mistake, thinking it was the regular finish. We were pushing HVS at the time, my mate peeled of the last move, ripped several pieces of gear and landed back next to me at the spike belay. I was pulled clean off of the spike belay and we were both left hanging off a small wire somewhere above.
Terrifying, and newby errors all round really (this was some years ago). We finished it and I remember it being quite a good pitch.
 Mick Ward 08 Jul 2014
In reply to charley:

Noah's Warning (I think there's a good direct finish)and Cobweb Crack are nice. I can remember seconding SS Special but can't remember anything else about it. Embarrassing! Wasn't there supposed to be a move on the top wall akin to, 'stepping out of an aircraft'? (Paul Williams guide, I think.) Paul did have a way with these lurid descriptions, bless him.

Mick
 Jonny2vests 08 Jul 2014
In reply to charley:

SS Special is fantastic, don't remember anything dodgy about the top.
 Albachoss 08 Jul 2014
In reply to charley:

I did Grim Jim thinking it was the normal finish too in one 45m pitch, I highly recommend it! The climbing was beautiful, more technical, wildly exposed and safe. Do it!
 Morgan Woods 08 Jul 2014
In reply to charley:


> Also climbed Cemetery Gates and had a quick look at the direct finish. From the part I could see, it looked okay and attemptable. My thinking is that if I can't get up it I can just go back to the ledge and finish up CG without turning it into a major epic.

I've done it as a single pitch (needs 60m ropes) and it seems quite logical, so I'm not sure why more people don't do it. It gets 5b but i think it's a bit easier than the 5b pitch below of CG. Plenty of pro and the option to skip right if you want.
OP charley 08 Jul 2014
Thanks, sounds like I definitely need to give it a go. I did CG in one on 50's and "just" had enough to clip the belay. Really loved it so looking forward to trying the direct finish now...
 GPN 09 Jul 2014
In reply to Morgan Woods:

> I've done it as a single pitch (needs 60m ropes)

I can confirm that 50m ropes reach the belay just fine!

 mr mills 09 Jul 2014
In reply to charley:

I did it on Sunday, the Grim Jim finish is straightforward with good gear, just be mindful that your belayer wont be able to see you...if you are pushing the grade then belaying at the stance might be a good option !

Hangover is really good as is Slape Direct with bomber gear by the crux.
 steveboote 09 Jul 2014
In reply to Mick Ward:

hi Mick how u doin, u might get a shock if u go back on this now!....that 'stepping out of airplane' quite straightforward...it's the bits below!
 Morgan Woods 09 Jul 2014
In reply to GPN:

Ah. Good to know.
 Jonny2vests 09 Jul 2014
In reply to steveboote:

> hi Mick how u doin, u might get a shock if u go back on this now!....that 'stepping out of airplane' quite straightforward...it's the bits below!

Did something happen to it?
 Mick Ward 09 Jul 2014
In reply to steveboote:

Hi Steve, good to hear from you. I guess it's all training for Pex!

Mick
 Albachoss 09 Jul 2014
In reply to charley:

50m ropes will indeed suffice but your second may need to start climbing the initial choss so you can have an anchor!
OP charley 09 Jul 2014
In reply to mr mills:

I think the Hangover (or it actually may of been Slape Direct) is one of the routes that caught my eye last time I was there. I'm was really surprised at how many E grade routes jumped out at me. Usually don't take much notice of them in the Peak but find them really inspiring in the Pass.
 Ciderslider 10 Jul 2014
In reply to charley:

Hey Charley, just man up and get on with it mate Weather permitting could you drag Ian up CG. He has the mat and bags

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...