UKC

NEWS: Golden Shadow, 8B+, by Ashima Shiraishi

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 UKC News 11 Jul 2014
Ashima Shiraishi on Golden Shadow, 8B+, Rocklands, SA, 5 kbAshima Shiraishi has repeated Fred Nicole's Golden Shadow, ~8B+, in Rocklands, South Africa.
This means 13-year old Ashima is the second woman, after Tomoko Ogawa, to climb this grade, and of course the youngest.



Ashima Shiraishi is sponsored by:

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69036
 Dennis999 11 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC News:

Amazing. She's also the second youngest person to ever climb the grade, after Mirko Caballero
 long 11 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC News:
But how much does she weigh??
Post edited at 18:11
 Ian Dunn 11 Jul 2014
In reply to long:
Does it matter how much she weighs? What is her reach? Try and give credit where credit is due rather being cynical and negative.
Post edited at 20:45
 henwardian 11 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC News:

Incredible, really amazing effort. Still, I can probably catch up with her when the boys, booze and drugs teenage rebellion kicks in

(Though she is not a "woman", she is a girl so maybe "second female" would be a better way to put it).
 ozcro 13 Jul 2014
In reply to Ian Dunn:

Well put ian
> Does it matter how much she weighs? What is her reach? Try and give credit where credit is due rather being cynical and negative.

 Jonny2vests 14 Jul 2014
In reply to Ian Dunn:

> Does it matter how much she weighs? What is her reach? Try and give credit where credit is due rather being cynical and negative.

It doesn't matter, but maybe it's interesting.
 winhill 14 Jul 2014
In reply to Jonny2vests:
> In reply to Ian Dunn:

> Does it matter how much she weighs? What is her reach? Try and give credit where credit is due rather being cynical and negative.

> It doesn't matter, but maybe it's interesting.

I think the point is that people often use strength to weight ratio to try to explain (and dismiss) why kids do well (certainly happens to my kids a lot) when in fact it's a tiny component.

Reach is a lot more interesting, I often wonder how these kids are getting up adult problems, do they hunt out short guy friendly stuff?

Most of the short person techniques they've used before, you'd think, become less and less useful over 7A?
Post edited at 10:47
 stp 14 Jul 2014
In reply to winhill:

> I often wonder how these kids are getting up adult problems, do they hunt out short guy friendly stuff?

Well presumably they don't get up everything. If a problem has only one long reach way of doing it they probably won't even try it in the first place. And a news report or video about someone who couldn't reach some holds wouldn't make an interesting story.
 1poundSOCKS 14 Jul 2014
In reply to stp:

On the Real Rock tour film about her, she managed a roof problem by using tiny intermediate holds that adults wouldn't normally use. Small hands probably help.
 Jonny2vests 15 Jul 2014
In reply to winhill:
> I think the point is that people often use strength to weight ratio to try to explain (and dismiss) why kids do well (certainly happens to my kids a lot) when in fact it's a tiny component.

I doubt that actually.

> Reach is a lot more interesting, I often wonder how these kids are getting up adult problems

Amongst other things, they use their strength to weight ratio. And a shed load of talent of course. And the ability to not get poisoned by lactic acid.
Post edited at 07:37

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