UKC

I have read several climbing biographies that use the term 'reliable second' or something similar. This describes the role of the person who often follows the intrepid leader in their exploits on the rock. I think this fairly accurately sums up a significant part of my climbing activity during my most prolific period during the late 70's. I did lead lots of climbs but my hardest ascents were always seconding. One of the guys I climbed with summed it up quite well - 'I know you won't push to lead but
you will always get up a climb - including cleaning the gear and that is something I can rely on'. I am not unhappy with this role. The joy of solving rock problems in good style without risk has always felt good so being on the sharp end isn't the big draw for me. I think we can all play the climbing game in different ways.
Is this still relevant today?
Any thoughts?

In reply to keith-ratcliffe:

There's something for everyone in the hills; horses for courses

In reply to keith-ratcliffe:

Pretty much the view of my wife.

Since a rather interesting accident where the rockface she was (lead) climbing on parted company with the remainder of the crag with her on it she's not been keen on leading, but she's a bl**dy good lead belayer and can get a buried cam out of the most inaccessible places

She's happy with this, enjoys climbing, but doesn't feel any necessity to lead.

I like someone who can get up anything I can climb, and get the gear out

Works for both of us!

In reply to keith-ratcliffe:

I've done a lot of seconding and have always thought of myself as reliable, but conscience dictates that I should own up to once refusing to follow my leader up a route at Burbage because of the midgefest that day.
I did wait till he had called 'safe' before de-roping and running away shouting ' Sorry Bill, you'll have to ab down and get the gear out'.

In reply to Ann S:


That is entirely reasonable. Although I think vacating earlier might make the leader think twice before setting off up grit routes on warm, still evenings.

In reply to keith-ratcliffe:

I have a history of getting in more of a pickle seconding routes than leading them.
Not sure if it's a lack of focus when not on the sharp end, or if they were just coincidentally tough routes at their grades.
Either way I've made a much bigger bollocks up of routes when seconding than any others.
:-/

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Thank you Jon. It reminds me of a true story I read from the States where the belayer on the ground was attacked by a swarm of hornets, took his leader off belay when he was half way up the pitch and promptly took cover by jumping into the nearby lake.

In reply to keith-ratcliffe:


It's totally relevant today. Nothing wrong with preferring it or doing it exclusively. And there'll always be a demand for good seconds after all! They're half the team.

In reply to abseil:

A lot of top climbers have attributed a fair amount of their success down to having great seconds - Chris Gibb with Ron Fawcett, Chris King with Pat Littlejohn, Jill Lawrence with Pete Livesey, Paul Williams and Al Evans with a number of notables, just to name a few.

In reply to Dispater:
I always used to climb better on the lead.

After doing some BMC master classes I now focus myself by really concentrating on these new skills. Its amazing how slow deliberate climbing can be very satisfying. I also find I will now lead the second pitch/later climbs better for it.

In reply to Dispater:


I can definitely relate to this. Everything feels harder on the back end for me. Even routes I've lead before have felt a lot harder when I've seconded them at a later date. I'm sure it's purely psychological.

In reply to Rylstone_Cowboy:



I agree and the hardest part is removing well embedded gear when a) it's been placed in the only available hand hold, or b) the leader has tugged so hard to make certain it's well seated that removal even with a nut key is an epic in it's own right. Many's the time I've arrived at the belay stance utterly exhausted and with bleeding knuckles, to be asked by the leader "what took you so long?".

I much prefer leading.

In reply to Dispater:


For me, it's a lack of focus. Often when I second a route I find myself thinking that I'm glad I'm not leading it, and wouldn't it be scary on the sharp end. On lead I'm utterly absorbed by the intricacies of climbing, managing the pump and ensuring that I'm safe, and consequently climb a lot better.

I can see why some people are happy to just second and don't feel any need to lead but I couldn't imagine ever feeling like that myself. Yeah, it's good to do stuff that's harder than I would usually climb and to have a break on multipitches but I'd almost always rather be leading. I just get so much more satisfaction out of it and I think I'd have gotten bored of climbing if I just followed my partner up stuff!

In reply to climbingpixie:

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We call this top rope fear, in my case always due to paying absolutely no attention to what i'm doing

I enjoy being second when its a bit above my grade, so long as their isn't a poorly protected traverse .