Expedition & Alpine forum


View latest messages in My Forums
Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.

Topic - Norway, Eidetinden and Klubbrutta information

gilliesp on 14 Jul 2014
Does anyone have any knowledge of the following?

The start point for the 12 pitch severe called Klubbruta on Eidetinden.

The Kuglhornet and it's easier routes eg a ridge at severe.

An English written guidebook on the hills around Stetind. I've heard of one called something like 'The Magic Mountains' but not sure.

We have got some basic info via blogs and UKC but all lack some detail or other.
In reply to gilliesp:

I think all the info you need is in here:

http://www.topptur.nu/books.asp?pid=3&language=2


Chris

gilliesp on 14 Jul 2014
In reply to Chris Craggs:

I have just this minute run off your Rockfax Mini Guide - Lofoten Classics. Amazing!!!

I will see if I can locate the book today as we leave next Monday. Maybe someone on here will have one for sale?

Thanks
In reply to gilliesp:

> I have just this minute run off your Rockfax Mini Guide - Lofoten Classics. Amazing!!!

The miniguide is very dated now - you can by the full guidebook at the Climbing Cafe/shop in Henningsvaer. It is currently unavailable in the UK: http://www.rockfax.com/climbing-guides/books/lofoten-rock-2008/

> I will see if I can locate the book today as we leave next Monday. Maybe someone on here will have one for sale?

I have one but as I'm out of the UK at the mo that isn't a lot of use!


Chris
gilliesp on 14 Jul 2014
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Our four man party actually has two full guidebooks so I am not really sure I know why I printed the mini guide anyway....

I am currently checking where I can get the cheapest copy delivered on time. But thanks for the thought.
In reply to gilliesp:

It's all in the book, but Klubbruta is easy to find, just start at the bottom and go to the top! We didn't even know what the route was called or how hard it was when we did it http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=55259 just follow your nose!
gilliesp on 16 Jul 2014
In reply to TobyA:

We now almost have the book - it's in the post.

Do you know of a decent OS type map(s) of the area or did you get by without one?

Thanks.
HeMa on 16 Jul 2014
In reply to gilliesp:
> Do you know of a decent OS type map(s) of the area or did you get by without one?

Norways landsurvey does some fine maps, but then again you can do just fine without one.
gilliesp on 16 Jul 2014
In reply to HeMa:

I get twitchy when I don't have a map of an area I am entering into but I guess the guidebook will explain all. Thankyou.

Supplementary question:
We were wondering if bugs (midges/mossies/clegs) are a problem around Stetind and Lofotens? I think, from past memory, there is info on this on UKC so will search.
HeMa on 16 Jul 2014
In reply to gilliesp:

I'm almost certain that the topo has snaps from the map for the approach.

as for them flying nasties... yes, they can be a problem.

mossies are generally nice, midges are not. but generally you'll only have midges in calm winds and after rain. clegs can be a nuisance, but not in the scale of mossies/midges.
gilliesp on 16 Jul 2014
In reply to HeMa:

I will take all my armoury to repel them...just in case they become a problem. I gather Lofotens are usually untroubled by flying nasties.....
HeMa on 16 Jul 2014
In reply to gilliesp:

Nope, some problems there as well... if no wind and after rain.

DIY Thermacells seem to work really well though.
gilliesp on 16 Jul 2014
In reply to HeMa:

Thanks again. Had never heard of these devices.
HeMa on 16 Jul 2014
Oo on 16 Jul 2014
In reply to gilliesp:

You can view the full OS style mapping data for Norway through here: http://norgeskart.no/

Maps are about 200 NOK (20) each for a copy printed on waterproof plastic.
In reply to Oo:

And you can often print enough off from norgeskart to be useful. A map isn't too important for Eidetind because there are so few ways off it. Take a photo of the descent face first before parking lower down to walk in to the ridge.

BTW Kugelhornet East Ridge is meant to be about VS, but we thought much easier. Lovely day out http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=200112
ads.ukclimbing.com
gilliesp on 17 Jul 2014
In reply to TobyA:

We now have the book and it is indeed, as suggested, a treasury of information. We have already adjusted our aims based on its content.

Thanks again to all of you.

Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.

My Forums