/ Another assisted locking device (Camp Matik)

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PPP - on 14 Jul 2014
Here we go, another belay device this year:
http://i.imgur.com/Cfu5y4V.jpg

Any thoughts? Looks like this year we will have quite few interesting belay devices.
climbwhenready - on 14 Jul 2014
In reply to PPP:

It sounds like it actually allows limited rope slip. When you look at this, the alpine-up, what the DMM grip turns out to be, we could be seeing the start of the end of non-assisted devices - when someone makes a device that you belay like an ATC, works with double ropes, and autolocks with limited rope slip to manage the impact, and is light, why would you not use it?

I think in 15 years time if you turn up at a wall with an ATC you'll be looked at in amazement and told you're gonna die.
PPP - on 14 Jul 2014
In reply to climbwhenready:

What I thought this morning was that there are very few assisted locking devices with double rope slots (for use with twin or half ropes). All I can recall are Mammut Smart Alpine and CT Alpine Up.

So I guess ATC won't be forgotten for a while...
mattrm - on 14 Jul 2014
In reply to PPP:

Certainly looks nice. Wonder if we'll see them in UK shops. I'd be interested to try one out or see a proper review.
atthedropofahat on 14 Jul 2014
In reply to PPP:

Also the Edelrid Mega/Micro Jul, which is similar weight and bulk to an ATC, with guide plate function too.
mike kann - on 14 Jul 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Had a play at the show and its a pretty decent quality piece of kit - all metal and pretty slick. Bit pricey but then how many of these devices do you ever buy in a lifetime? I reckon it should do well and give the grigri a run for its money. That is if people manage to look past the camp label...
Keiran.A - on 14 Jul 2014
In reply to PPP:

i wonder why wild country never made a double rope SRC? To me it seems like the fore father to a lot of these devices.
jimtitt - on 14 Jul 2014
In reply to mike kann:

> Had a play at the show and its a pretty decent quality piece of kit - all metal and pretty slick. Bit pricey but then how many of these devices do you ever buy in a lifetime? I reckon it should do well and give the grigri a run for its money. That is if people manage to look past the camp label...

I though it was heavy and a bit rough, didnīt make me want to throw my Grigri in the bin for sure! Weīll wait and see if the lower impact force is advertising jargon for it slips a lot like a few other previous devices of this type.
jimtitt - on 14 Jul 2014
In reply to climbwhenready:

> It sounds like it actually allows limited rope slip. When you look at this, the alpine-up, what the DMM grip turns out to be, we could be seeing the start of the end of non-assisted devices - when someone makes a device that you belay like an ATC, works with double ropes, and autolocks with limited rope slip to manage the impact, and is light, why would you not use it?

> I think in 15 years time if you turn up at a wall with an ATC you'll be looked at in amazement and told you're gonna die.

Well the ATC has been going strong for the past decades (particularly in itīs XP guise) and I doubt that will change, a lot of climbers donīt want a device that locks up and is light, easy to use and versatile.
Iīm testing all of the modern generation at the moment and weak performance with thin ropes is a notable feature for most of them, at the end of the day if your priority is stopping big falls then the ATC XP is still the beast of choice. If single-pitch cragging is your thing then the sort-of assisted braking devices are o.k. but so is most everything anyway.
PPP - on 14 Jul 2014
In reply to Keiran.A:

Isn't it similar to Mammut Alpine Smart?
DiscoBoy on 14 Jul 2014
In reply to mike kann:

How much are these going to be?

Anyone have an idea how much the DMM grip will likely cost?
Toerag - on 15 Jul 2014
In reply to PPP:

I think the best solution is to not use stupidly skinny ropes that wear out in ten seconds flat and make using a normal device a pain/dangerous!
Keiran.A - on 16 Jul 2014
In reply to PPP:
> Isn't it similar to Mammut Alpine Smart?

That's the main one I was thinking but from what I've seen, the way a lot of them rotate on the krab to pinch the rope looks the same. Interested to see the grip in action though.
AlH - on 16 Jul 2014
More pics and more devices here: http://www.dennisvanhoek.nl/?p=1929
coldwill - on 16 Jul 2014
In reply to AlH:

Something I notice is how easy it is to pull rope through the Mammut Smart/Alpine Smart, due the distance between the karabiner and the edge the rope runs over to lock if that makes sense. The CT Be-Up looks like it has a similar idea and based on just looking at it on Dennis’ photo, looks like the best interpretation of the idea so far.
BenedictIEP on 16 Jul 2014
In reply to climbwhenready:
"It sounds like it actually allows limited rope slip. When you look at this, the alpine-up, what the DMM grip turns out to be, we could be seeing the start of the end of non-assisted devices - when someone makes a device that you belay like an ATC, works with double ropes, and autolocks with limited rope slip to manage the impact, and is light, why would you not use it?"

That sounds like an Edeldrid Mega Jul to me!
climbwhenready - on 16 Jul 2014
In reply to BenedictIEP:

Never tried one. They seem to be a bit marmite - some people love them, some people (at least reading UKC threads) hate them!
Keiran.A - on 18 Jul 2014
fire_munki on 18 Jul 2014
In reply to Keiran.A:

But it's Ģ100 there! That's a grigri, and a guide plate and some change for a pint. Or a Alpine up with krab and enough money for a meal out. I know where my money wouldn't go.
ads.ukclimbing.com
Keiran.A - on 18 Jul 2014
In reply to fire_munki:

Frappe that expensive. i only watched the videos, i didn't read anything.

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