/ Another assisted locking device (Camp Matik)
Any thoughts? Looks like this year we will have quite few interesting belay devices.
It sounds like it actually allows limited rope slip. When you look at this, the alpine-up, what the DMM grip turns out to be, we could be seeing the start of the end of non-assisted devices - when someone makes a device that you belay like an ATC, works with double ropes, and autolocks with limited rope slip to manage the impact, and is light, why would you not use it?
I think in 15 years time if you turn up at a wall with an ATC you'll be looked at in amazement and told you're gonna die.
What I thought this morning was that there are very few assisted locking devices with double rope slots (for use with twin or half ropes). All I can recall are Mammut Smart Alpine and CT Alpine Up.
So I guess ATC won't be forgotten for a while...
Certainly looks nice. Wonder if we'll see them in UK shops. I'd be interested to try one out or see a proper review.
Also the Edelrid Mega/Micro Jul, which is similar weight and bulk to an ATC, with guide plate function too.
Had a play at the show and its a pretty decent quality piece of kit - all metal and pretty slick. Bit pricey but then how many of these devices do you ever buy in a lifetime? I reckon it should do well and give the grigri a run for its money. That is if people manage to look past the camp label...
i wonder why wild country never made a double rope SRC? To me it seems like the fore father to a lot of these devices.
I though it was heavy and a bit rough, didnīt make me want to throw my Grigri in the bin for sure! Weīll wait and see if the lower impact force is advertising jargon for it slips a lot like a few other previous devices of this type.
Well the ATC has been going strong for the past decades (particularly in itīs XP guise) and I doubt that will change, a lot of climbers donīt want a device that locks up and is light, easy to use and versatile.
Iīm testing all of the modern generation at the moment and weak performance with thin ropes is a notable feature for most of them, at the end of the day if your priority is stopping big falls then the ATC XP is still the beast of choice. If single-pitch cragging is your thing then the sort-of assisted braking devices are o.k. but so is most everything anyway.
Isn't it similar to Mammut Alpine Smart?
How much are these going to be?
Anyone have an idea how much the DMM grip will likely cost?
I think the best solution is to not use stupidly skinny ropes that wear out in ten seconds flat and make using a normal device a pain/dangerous!
That's the main one I was thinking but from what I've seen, the way a lot of them rotate on the krab to pinch the rope looks the same. Interested to see the grip in action though.
Something I notice is how easy it is to pull rope through the Mammut Smart/Alpine Smart, due the distance between the karabiner and the edge the rope runs over to lock if that makes sense. The CT Be-Up looks like it has a similar idea and based on just looking at it on Dennis photo, looks like the best interpretation of the idea so far.
"It sounds like it actually allows limited rope slip. When you look at this, the alpine-up, what the DMM grip turns out to be, we could be seeing the start of the end of non-assisted devices - when someone makes a device that you belay like an ATC, works with double ropes, and autolocks with limited rope slip to manage the impact, and is light, why would you not use it?"
That sounds like an Edeldrid Mega Jul to me!
Never tried one. They seem to be a bit marmite - some people love them, some people (at least reading UKC threads) hate them!
But it's Ģ100 there! That's a grigri, and a guide plate and some change for a pint. Or a Alpine up with krab and enough money for a meal out. I know where my money wouldn't go.
Frappe that expensive. i only watched the videos, i didn't read anything.
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