UKC

straight-foward/ easy ish finger/hand cracks peaks

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TParker22 16 Jul 2014
would like to know some good routes in the peak for hand/finger jams.
good lines nothing harder than hvs so can get some good solid practice in & try some harder stuff!
 splat2million 16 Jul 2014
In reply to TParker22:

Brown's Crack at Bamford is a really good crack climb, but only at HS.
 jimjimjim 16 Jul 2014
In reply to TParker22:
Millstone. Loads to go at.
 Jon Stewart 16 Jul 2014
In reply to TParker22:
Just thinking about Stangage, we have:

- Surgeon's Saunter for solid VS hand jamming (the Direct at HVS is a toughie and the independent moves aren't cracky IIRC)
- Terrazza Crack for top-end HVS crackiness. Finger/hand/neither stuff, steep.
- Some jamming cracks right of Right Hand Tower, tough-VSish.
- Exodus/Deuteronomy etc. Classic HVS jamming cracks, a convenient spot to get a whole load practice. Some are reasonable, one of them is a nightmare!
- Dalesman (not as much hand jamming as you'd like...so hard!)
- Titanic Direct. Great, varied climbing including a steep hand crack
- Count's Crack. Best VS crack on the edge. The odd fist might be useful too.
- Surprise. This is the hardest jamming crack in the world. Avoid.

We're only getting towards the Plantation here so it would take a while to go on. In general, at HVS and below they tend to be hand cracks rather than fingers, E1 is the standard grade for straight forwards finger cracks with solid jams and good gear. Below that grade thin cracks tend to have other holds and aren't really finger cracks as such.
Post edited at 18:02
 JimboWizbo 16 Jul 2014
In reply to TParker22:

Little innominate at Curbar makes for good hand/fist/offwidth practice, if you stick to jamming.

Also, chequers crack is fingery and has a great hand jamming section at the top.
 Ben07 16 Jul 2014
In reply to TParker22:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=230

eastern grit jamming tick list
 Jon Stewart 16 Jul 2014
In reply to Ben07:


> eastern grit jamming tick list


There are some mighty odd selections on there. Strangest I think are Heaven Crack and Desperation. Use with caution!

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