UKC

Loose block, Cauldron Crack, Glen Clova

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 Mark Bannan 18 Jul 2014
Yesterday, while enjoying a superb day's climbing at Glen Clova with my mate Mike, I moved a frighteningly large loose block (thankfully while seconding) on Cauldron Crack at Glen Clova. The block in question is just above the roof and is about 1m tall and 30 cm wide. It could easily weigh several hundred kilos and it feels as if it is about to go sooner rather than later. I have no desire to try and lead this route now and maybe other people could benefit from this information.

However, I would heartily recommend many other superb routes at Glen Clova - Flake Route, Alder, Wandered, Red Wall (I didn't lead this, but great route!) are all superb!

M
 jon 18 Jul 2014
In reply to Mark Bannan:

Any reason you didn't remove it as you were seconding?
OP Mark Bannan 18 Jul 2014
In reply to jon:

I just got shit-scared! I thought it could injure me if it fell.
 jon 18 Jul 2014
In reply to Mark Bannan:

Fair enough.
 MrRiley 19 Jul 2014
In reply to Mark Bannan:

Massive punt this... Did you climb Proud Corner? I lost a black diamond Camelot 0.3 behind a block at the base of the crux upper wall last weekend. You didn't happen to retrieve it by any chance?
 Vigier 20 Jul 2014
In reply to Mark Bannan:

Reminds me of the time I pulled the "tooth" from Witch's Tooth (1988) - although I was leading it at the time!

It was E1 then; I notice that it is now considered nails for the grade - the missing tooth is probably the reason!

OP Mark Bannan 29 Jul 2014
In reply to MrRiley:

No - sorry!
 CMcBain 29 Jul 2014
In reply to jtpj777:

It's funny - the guidebook mentions that the loss of the tooth made the route easier. Personally I thought it was nails for E1, the 5c pitch of Zigzag Double Direct is probably easier.

Is the loose block the big thank god jug just before pulling round the roof (it's never looked that well attached?) or is it something else? If my memory serves me, there's also a slightly dubious long block just above the peg after you pull onto the wee headwall?

Was actually at Clova today on The Doonie and High Crag (it's a shame more people don't head up there as Centipod would be worth a few stars if some traffic got rid of the lichen)

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