/ Rebel Pro GTX - for Summer Alpine/Scottish Winter

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John Newbiggin - on 18 Jul 2014
Hi all.

I've been trying on a few different Scarpa mountain boots before I'll be buying some in the coming months. So far I've found the Rebel Pro and the Rebel Ultras to be the best fitting as well as comfiest due to weight. However, would these be warm enough for a summer Mont Blanc ascent? I'm sure they'd do ok in the UK winter too, but some confirmation would be good. I'm concerned they'd not be quite as warm as the Mont Blancs or certainly not the Phantom Guides, particularly when stationary.

I'm leaning towards the Pro due to price/weight, but I've also noticed the new Mont Blanc Pro GTX might be worth a try, and also feature sock-fit like the Rebel Pro/Ultras. Can any one offer their ideas?
coldwill - on 18 Jul 2014
In reply to John Newbiggin:

Hmm, the R Ultra were the coldest winter boot I've ever used. Ok if you keep moving but I would have to employ some trickery it I were to stand around belaying. The tongue was a pain as well. The tongue on the R pro looks better but not perfect with the same warmth. I would say the MB Pro is probably your best bet but I've never used them or try these:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=6411
But it's all about the fit.
marzi - on 18 Jul 2014
In reply to John Newbiggin:

these will not warm enough for Scottish winter, unless you have some primaloft socks and even then your pushing it, total summer boot I'm afraid.
edinburgh_man on 18 Jul 2014
In reply to marzi:

Plenty of people have used the Rebel Ultra's for Scottish Winter this year, incuding Guy Rob, Greg Boswell etc. Maybe they just move quickly.
John Newbiggin - on 18 Jul 2014
In reply to edinburgh_man:

Maybe, It's hard to tell warmth levels from the Scarpa website, so I was hoping for first hand opinions from use. Primaloft socks wouldn't be a bad idea really, but ideally the boot itself should be warm enough I suppose.
edinburgh_man on 18 Jul 2014
In reply to John Newbiggin:

Why not just go for a Phantom / Phantom Ultra if you are concerned about warmth and want something you can also use for summer alpine?
John Newbiggin - on 18 Jul 2014
In reply to John Newbiggin:

yeah, may have to give them a try, but was trying to go for lighter/cheaper, haha :) Hopefully the new mont blancs will be a good shot too
Brian Pollock - on 19 Jul 2014
In reply to John Newbiggin:

I used the Rebel Ultras for Scottish winter last season. Found them plenty warm with the heaviest weight smartwool socks. Held up better than my mates Nepals on a long, wet and windy walk in / out at Liathach. I'm sure heavier boots will be warmer but that's the trade off you make for comfort, precision etc.

Couldn't be happier with mine and would recommend. Wouldn't get the pro due to lack of gaiter personally.
Mr. K - on 19 Jul 2014
In reply to John Newbiggin:

Currently on a ferry, heading down to Chamonix for a month and I have a new pair of Scarpa Rebel Pros in the car. I invested in them because my feet boil in my Phantom Guides in the Summer! I'll report back once I know if they're warm enough for the summit of Mont Blanc. =o)
John Newbiggin - on 19 Jul 2014
In reply to John Newbiggin:

Cheers guys! I'm def leaning toward them for weight at fit. I figure primaloft socks or dressing slightly warmer would help.
coldwill - on 19 Jul 2014
In reply to John Newbiggin:

Further to my last I should add I always get cold feet, it's just the Rebels felt particularly bad. They were the best fitting boot though, except for an ankle issue I have which is why I sold them. I think we are talking fractions of difference here. I would rate them the same or fractionally colder than the Trango Evo Lights, of which I've had three pairs. So they will work but you might suffer. I suspect a lot of the wads you see with these lead all the pitches and are seconded by Primaloft covered, big boot wearing belay wads. That and they didn't stumble out of the Clachaig Inn at 2am and start the day with a hangover. I could be wrong of course.
John Newbiggin - on 24 Jul 2014
In reply to coldwill:
Fair point! Think an insulated gaiter would help a lot in winter? I'd be hesitant to get super-warm boots also due to wanting them for summer alpine, I guess I'll be making compromises either way really.
Post edited at 12:12
coldwill - on 24 Jul 2014
In reply to John Newbiggin:

Also worth considering that Trango Ext Evo are the best value winter boot easily at the moment if they fit. I always use those sticky shake up warm tea bag toe warmer things. Put them on when I put my crampons on and find they make a real difference.

These;
http://www.amazon.com/HotHands-Toe-Warmers-40-pairs/dp/B0007ZF4PE
coldwill - on 24 Jul 2014
In reply to John Newbiggin:

To be clear I mean the Trango Ext Evo Lt in the posts above.
ads.ukclimbing.com
Street - on 24 Jul 2014
In reply to coldwill:

I used my Trango Extremes over in the Alps this year and they were great. My feet were toasty warm for two weeks and I wasn't complaining about how heavy and uncomfortable they were like the guys with Nepals were doing.

The only time my toes got cold was when we went up Mont Blanc at the end of the holiday but they soon warmed up when the sun was up properly!

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