/ Best E1 in the world?

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Phil Kelly - on 19 Jul 2014
Hi

Tricky one this because there are so many of them, but which trad E1 rises to the top of the pile - anywhere in the world, single or multi-pitch?

Any thoughts?

Phil
MFB - on 19 Jul 2014
In reply to Phil Kelly:

definitely gimmer string or man of straw
The Pylon King on 19 Jul 2014
In reply to Phil Kelly:

I thought the British grading system was only used in Britain?
Rick Graham on 19 Jul 2014
In reply to Phil Kelly:

The Nose on El Cap.

I described it as E1 and A1 at the time.

(The Salathe got E2 and A2)
Sam Beaton on 19 Jul 2014
In reply to Phil Kelly:

Diedros Magicos, Puig Campagna, Costa Blanca is always my answer to this question!
richparry - on 19 Jul 2014
In reply to Phil Kelly:

Serenity crack/sons of yesterday in yosemite. Think that was about E1
Phil Kelly - on 19 Jul 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:

> I thought the British grading system was only used in Britain?

Good point, well made, but I'm sure you can figure out the parities with other grading systems.
Phil Kelly - on 19 Jul 2014
In reply to MFB:

> definitely gimmer string or man of straw

Are we on for Gimmer String next Friday then? I was setting my sights a lot lower TBH!
Blue Straggler - on 19 Jul 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:
> I thought the British grading system was only used in Britain?

Aren't you classing Malta as Britain? (that's an earnest question, not a point-scorer...the trad climbs there are graded on the UK system)

I have a sneaking feeling that somewhere else in the world might use the UK system but it's not coming to mind right now.
Post edited at 22:22
Phil Kelly - on 19 Jul 2014
In reply to Blue Straggler:

Malta is go
> Are you classing Malta as Britain?

I wasn't. Should I? The weather's better isn't it?
Blue Straggler - on 19 Jul 2014
In reply to Phil Kelly:

You quoted me just as I was changing "Are" to "Aren't" :-)
MFB - on 19 Jul 2014
In reply to Phil Kelly:

gimmer string - your lead or aiding - yes lower
mr mills - on 19 Jul 2014
In reply to richparry:

Ditto but, I thought it was E2
The Pylon King on 19 Jul 2014
In reply to Phil Kelly:

> Good point, well made, but I'm sure you can figure out the parities with other grading systems.

Does any other country use our grading?
Karl Bromelow on 19 Jul 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:

> I thought the British grading system was only used in Britain?

Ireland uses the same system. I know of a handful of routes here in Victoria, Australia that still have the UK grades despite the general replacement with the dry and uninspiring Ewbank system.
aln - on 19 Jul 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:

> Does any other country use our grading?

Only if we shout at them loud enough
In reply to Phil Kelly:

I think Sirplum and Cemetary Gates would get into the top 10 !
Kemics - on 19 Jul 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:

Morocco uses British grading...established by ex pats (brown et all) and has become the norm
In reply to Kemics:

Surely the UK published guidebooks to Morocco use UK grades but no one else? Aren't all the massive sport climbs in Todra gorge (IIRC) given French grades for example?
Greenbanks - on 20 Jul 2014
In reply to Phil Kelly:

I like the idea of a 'personal best', as opposed to 'the best in the world'. This allows for all kinds of subjectivity and individual preference. For instance, higher up the thread 'Man of Straw' is named - my view is that its not even the best E1 in the Ghyll - an accolade that would go to Chimney Variant...and even then,that route would probably not get into a top 100 of World E1s...

But, from the posters perspective, it is well worth considering. Fair do's
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Andy Nisbet - on 20 Jul 2014
In reply to Phil Kelly:

West ridge of the Salbitchen
Clint86 - on 20 Jul 2014
In reply to Phil Kelly:

The Arrow, on a sunny day with a nice swell running, done at your limit.
MFB - on 20 Jul 2014
In reply to Greenbanks:

my experience does not allow me to contribute sensibly to the 'best E1 in the world'
(i reckon it will be an elite group who can truly comment on the OP)
but i was bored and like the routes i mentioned
incidentally i haven't done 'chimney variant' intend to remedy on your recommend

Greenbanks - on 20 Jul 2014
In reply to MFB:

I wasn't having a dig at all - simply reinforcing what you've said (that's my position too - the last E1 I've done is always up there near the best!). And believe me, I am not in a position to argue about the grade really - just that I know WG well, and have done Man of Straw - which I personally found rather underwhelming
Frank the Husky - on 20 Jul 2014
In reply to Phil Kelly: Ha'penny Arete, Deeply Vale
Mike Lewis - on 20 Jul 2014
In reply to Andy Nisbet:

Maybe - except he said E1, not ED1...

I'd recommend Vestpillaren (maybe E2), Luna Nascente (with the usual aid on the first 2 pitches), and the Yellow Spur at Eldorado. Crest Jewel, too, if you like slabs.
MFB - on 20 Jul 2014
In reply to Greenbanks:

think we're actually agreeing and if i can persuade my leader to drag me up CV (too much for me currently) i will form a view.
May start a 'best of WG' thread for fans of quality routes - your included
Man of straw has always been right at my limit. The guide says something like ok unless 'confidence in your feet evaporate' mine did and so it left an impression
cheers john
Karl Wooffindin - on 20 Jul 2014
In reply to Mike Lewis:

Am with you on Luna Nascente, what an amazing line.
Andy Nisbet - on 20 Jul 2014
In reply to Mike Lewis:

> Maybe - except he said E1, not ED1...

I'm allowed to give it a British grade. It is E1.
admackie - on 20 Jul 2014
In reply to Phil Kelly:

so far i think firesword on dragon buttress in morocco but still plenty around the world to look at
Adam Lincoln - on 20 Jul 2014
In reply to Phil Kelly:

Kachoong is pretty good. Araps, probably about E1....
Kemics - on 20 Jul 2014
In reply to TobyA:

> Surely the UK published guidebooks to Morocco use UK grades but no one else? Aren't all the massive sport climbs in Todra gorge (IIRC) given French grades for example?

I think sport routes are graded French style but all the trad stuff gets a British grade

Though as for the best route, it might be Kantti in Finland :) I think it gets something silly like 6a+ but seeing as there's 4 bolts in 50 meters I'd happily take a trad grade!
Jim Nevill - on 20 Jul 2014
In reply to Phil Kelly:

Has to be TPS surely? :) (I will be in hiding for a couple of weeks!)
Jon Stewart - on 20 Jul 2014
In reply to Phil Kelly:

You could make a pretty amazing E1 mixing pitches of Madier and Visite on the Aiguille Dibona. IIRC the combination I did was about HVS, but I think it would have been possible to make it E1. About 14 or so pitches of wonderful granite including a cool tunnel, lots of lovely slabs, some amazing laybacking up huge flakes, leading to an incredible summit. Unbeatable day.
the power - on 20 Jul 2014
In reply to admackie:

> so far i think firesword on dragon buttress in morocco but still plenty around the world to look at

Yeah but thats E2 .......hahaha
In reply to Kemics:

Yeah, but what grade? :) I've never led it (and have never led anything that hard in the UK either), too scary for me, but TobyFK who knows his stuff thought E2 5b or maybe even E3 5b/c. Isn't it a bit intense for E1?

The crack routes on the mainface at Olhava I reckon hold their own with any other single pitch E1s anywhere.

For the best E1 anywhere I think Sydpilaren of Stetind should get a look in. Possibly better than Vestpilaren across the water?
Bulls Crack - on 20 Jul 2014
In reply to Phil Kelly:

Coronation Street or Cenotaph Corner (no other climb has the heritage value!)
alasdair19 on 21 Jul 2014
In reply to Bulls Crack:

I thought coronation the best e1 in England about 6 years ago and don't think I'd change opinion now.

There's a truly brilliant e1 of left in the woods in squamish 8 pitch's maybe, torn between that and stoners highway in yosemite for best NA. Serenity crack is 10d sadly...

S ridge of bec d'oiseau above the envers is brilliant and unbolted. Best rock climbing I've done in cham maybe. The dibona link from j sounds great though with bonus v pointy summit and no big boots to carry...
abseil on 21 Jul 2014
In reply to Bulls Crack:

> Coronation Street or Cenotaph Corner....

Completely agree [for the UK]. Very hard to decide between these two [if only Coronation Street had a high-class lower section - it'd be easier to choose].
GrahamD - on 21 Jul 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:

> I thought the British grading system was only used in Britain?

It's used in Ireland as well
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Enty - on 21 Jul 2014
In reply to richparry:

> Serenity crack/sons of yesterday in yosemite. Think that was about E1

Crux section more like E3?

E
scott quinn - on 21 Jul 2014
In reply to Bulls Crack:

central buttress on scafell certainly has heritage!
Mark Bannan - on 21 Jul 2014
In reply to Phil Kelly:
The Needle, Shelter Stone Crag.

Surprised no one's mentioned this yet.
Post edited at 09:23
Richy boy on 21 Jul 2014
In reply to Phil Kelly:

Old Man of Hoy would rank pretty high. Surely?
stroppygob - on 21 Jul 2014
In reply to Phil Kelly:

"Shelered wall" @ Sheeps Tor.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=32689
Kemics - on 21 Jul 2014
In reply to TobyA:

> Yeah, but what grade? :) I've never led it (and have never led anything that hard in the UK either), too scary for me, but TobyFK who knows his stuff thought E2 5b or maybe even E3 5b/c. Isn't it a bit intense for E1?

> The crack routes on the mainface at Olhava I reckon hold their own with any other single pitch E1s anywhere.

> For the best E1 anywhere I think Sydpilaren of Stetind should get a look in. Possibly better than Vestpilaren across the water?

I'd say e2 seems fair, certainly one of the loneliest leads! I agree about the main faces too, couldn't help think any of them would be 3 star mega classics if they were anywhere in the uk.


In reply to Kemics:

They're just the perfect length aren't they? At about 45 mtrs you've got no excuse not to do them in a pitch, but they just keep going and going - generally with bomber regular gear so no excuses to wimp out! Seconded a friend on Ruotsalainen Reitti (the one that includes the long traverse left) a month ago and remember what a great climb it is despite having done it a few times previously.
old skool on 21 Jul 2014
In reply:

Regular Route, Fairview Dome

Kemics - on 21 Jul 2014
In reply to TobyA:

The one I remember best is Salama. I love how it has three really defined sections, one fingers sized, then hand and finally offwidth. Each section is split up by a delicate traverse. The lake is so eery too with it's jet black and completely still water...and yes at 45 meter it feels like forever!

Damn i might have to go back! :)

you should totally write up a ukc destination article. I'd say it's worth an international visit. Route approach by rowing boat, bbq, camping and infinite wild (amazingly tasting) blueberries for breakfast. Not to mention the climbing. We only did a quick stop off but I have some amazing memories of those few days.
John Alcock - on 21 Jul 2014
In reply to Kemics:

Epinephrine, Red Rocks is pretty memorable (includes 500 feet of squeeze chimneys)
Casual Route ,the Diamond
I agree about Diedros Magicos- it's great.
La Demande, Verdon

But hard to beat Rock Idol, Wishful Thinking, The Arrow etc
g1m147 on 21 Jul 2014
In reply to Phil Kelly:

Risky business at red rocks vets my vote. 5.10 c probably E1.5
old skool on 21 Jul 2014
In reply:

Or Central Pillar of Frenzy

Can't think of any in the UK that would make the top ten

Mike Lates - on 21 Jul 2014
In reply to Bulls Crack:

Not done Coronation St & will put it on the list but my nomination would be Grey Panther for pure consistent standard right through. Cenotaph Corner is classic but varies too much.
Gordon Stainforth - on 21 Jul 2014
In reply to Mike Lates:

Yup, Cenotaph is just too uneven. It's very near the top of many lists, but it's still flawed.
1poundSOCKS - on 21 Jul 2014
In reply to Phil Kelly:

I haven't done many at E1, but Lucky Strike stands out (even irrespective of grade).
davebr - on 21 Jul 2014
In reply to Phil Kelly:

Single pitch - Devil's Dihedral, Frog Buttress, Australia
Morgan Woods - on 21 Jul 2014
In reply to Adam Lincoln:

> Kachoong is pretty good. Araps, probably about E1....

As it gets 21 ie 6b+/6c i think it would creep into E2 territory but yes there are plenty of world class trad routes at Araps.

Eurydice (18) is a classic of the grade and would weigh in at E1ish, 2 long sustained pitches straight up the Bard Buttress is as good as it gets there:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=63391

humptydumpty - on 22 Jul 2014
In reply to Morgan Woods:

> As it gets 21 ie 6b+/6c i think it would creep into E2 territory but yes there are plenty of world class trad routes at Araps.

21 is more like top-end E2, isn't it? I'd expect 18 or 19 to be E1.
Deri Jones - on 22 Jul 2014
In reply to Morgan Woods:

Kachoong at E1 would be a bit harsh.
NE Buttress of upper Cathedral (Yosemite)and Torro (I know it gets E2, but it felt right at E1) on Carn Dearg would be my best, with Minus One Buttress Direct and the old Man of Hoy as reserves. They're the four at that sort of grade that stick in my mind.
GridNorth - on 22 Jul 2014
In reply to alasdair19:

Stoners Highway is one of the best routes I've climbed. Ever. But it's considerably harder than E1 especially with the direct start.
Morgan Woods - on 22 Jul 2014
In reply to humptydumpty:

> 21 is more like top-end E2, isn't it? I'd expect 18 or 19 to be E1.

Isn't that what I said?
humptydumpty - on 22 Jul 2014
In reply to Morgan Woods:

Yeah I guess you meant creep *down* into E2, sorry. I read it as "top-end E1, creeping into E2".
Morgan Woods - on 22 Jul 2014
In reply to humptydumpty:

Gotcha....always tough translating to/from E grades.
Al Evans on 22 Jul 2014
In reply to John Alcock:

I'd go for La Demande too.
Michael Gordon - on 22 Jul 2014
In reply to Deri Jones:

Torro is a fair call, it doesn't have the full mountain experience and big cliff feel of something like The Needle though.
Dave Garnett - on 22 Jul 2014
In reply to Phil Kelly:

There are few in the Cape that must be contenders.

How about Touch and Go or Roulette on Table Mountain? Amazing exposure and fantastic grippy holds.

Little Dutch Boy at Paarl is an great line through some very photogenic features (although I haven't done it since it was rebolted but I doubt it feels like a sport route).

Energy Crisis at the Wolfberg Cracks is a real adventure above a massive drop and would probably not be much harder than E1 if you had some big cams for the first pitch.


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