UKC

UKC Fit Club Week 383

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 Ally Smith 20 Jul 2014
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The following training article by Alex Barrows is the bible for training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...

Psyche video of the week - youtube.com/watch?v=0J44X1G71vU& think you try hard when climbing? Think again!

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity

Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=592388

mrchewy – Good lot of trad last week – how’s Pembroke?
JimmyKay – 4 weeks off and finger looking good – crushing again soon in Tres Ponts?
Tyler – Mixed bag in the dollies – did you get out this week?
Exile – more E2’s this week?
hms – 7a+ on-sight – mad props!
biscuit – good to hear the psyche has returned – did you fit in some productive training this week?
grubes – Sounds like the strength is still there, just the fitness that’s missing? How about trying New Mystique for less steep Kilnsey sport?
Dandan82 – Gotten out this week? Finger feeling better?
Humperdink – Another good week of running volume – did you get the hoped for 800m time?
mattrm – found a 6c project to try?
Just Tintin – Enjoy the Euro road trip. Maintain some gentle stretching of your wrists to get some flexibility back
Ally Smith – had a good week and is hopeful of more of the same
Nick Russell – DWS is a fun pursuit. Progress on Valley of the Blind?
IainRUK – I’m jealous of you having NYC as a background to run in; even if it’s running for the bus!
leon – if you need to drop off halfway through the session, it isn’t ARC’ing – the intensity is too high
stevemarkperry – no stats – double report this week?

Holiday season AWOL:
Curious Yellow
Tubb93
Alun
Ali
PPG – missing you pull-up psyche!
Goonie

Anyone I missed?
 Si Cox 20 Jul 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:

Thanks for the stats, Ally. Well done for a good week your end.

I've been away for quite a while; apologies for letting the side down.

Back at the beinning of May I popped a tendon in my left hand, so had an enforced lay-off. I managed to injure my Achilles tendon too, which didn't help.

What with trips away and an upcoming house move to Derby, I've not been up to much. However, in the last week I've managed two trail runs, and am trying to get back into training.

Climbing, I think, will have to wait to Derby, but I hear there are a number of walls and obviously good access to the Peak District, so things are looking up.

The tendon has healed well too, so just need to ease back into climbing.
 Nick Russell 20 Jul 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:
> Nick Russell – DWS is a fun pursuit. Progress on Valley of the Blind?

Yeah, smashed it! It's cool to see my name in the "Top Ascents" page again, even if it's just scraping into one column. Well done on getting in all 3 again last week. I'll post now, since I'm setting off to Staffordshire in a couple of hours... update on that next week!

M - Rest
T - Cheddar, Valley of the Blind. Should have got it on the first RP, but concentration lapsed after the crux. Then a silly foot slip and lack of commitment on the crux, skin was starting to look bad so I guess it's just as well I got it next try.
8km easy run and core in the evening
W - Swimming (1.6km). Second half of session was relay takeover practice.
T - Shorn Cliff with Emily. Some good, easy routes but eaten alive by insects.
F - Cheddar. Went a bit further afield to Nameless Bay. Flashed "Bikini Amber", 7a+ and ticked "Gubia", 7b+ second go. Both low in the grade, but I'll take the ticks!
S - TCA, core
S - Rest.

I think I've been on good form this week. Valley of the Blind didn't actually feel that hard, flashed 7a+ (plenty of beta from belaying Alex putting the clips in) and 7b+ second go. It seems a bit absurd, given that I fell above the second clip, but I wasn't too far from the onsight (flash? It was well chalked) on that one. I'd got through the difficult technical section and fell on a powerful move up into an undercut. A little bit more commitment and I could have done it. The climbing above that was much easier.

2014 goals
Sport: 8a. Best RP: 7c (2 of these now)
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Attempted: 8, clean onsight: 1 (+3 others I feel I've 'succeeded' on, one way or another)
Trad: Staffs NIAD. Attempting this tomorrow, Monday 21/07 - wish me luck!
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 247/416km down.
Swimming: Enter some competitions, get some 'benchmark' times. 58.69 100fr*, 26.98 (26.3*) 50 fr, 1:12.34 100 bk, 31.12 50 fly*, 1:09.58 100 IM
*Relay splits


Short-term goals
  • Get some sport mileage in 7b-7c range, maybe find a 7c+ or 8a that I like.
    Another 7b+ and 7c this week
  • Plan/train for trips in September: 1 week in Lundy, 2 weeks in North East US.
    Keeping up the sport mileage and bouldering. Cracks practice tomorrow :p
  •  Luke Owens 20 Jul 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    You missed me pal, I was about to do my update and you snaked me. I'll have to do a double update now!
     biscuit 20 Jul 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    Cheers Ally.

    A much more productive week and i feel like i'm moving in the right direction again. Just taking your foot off the gas for a short while quickly leads to doing nothing for ages. Don't want it to happen again.

    2 good sessions this week. Both bouldering.

    Big session 1st with lots of volume repeating all the problems up to the V4's on the rhs. Then started on the new set on the steep side. Brilliant problems but a lot of the grades seem out. Alex Fry is stronger than he thinks. Really good though, technical but strong at the same time. Lots of heels, toes, dynos etc. Anyway i got stuck at V4 so picked one to work. Didn't get it done. Got it next session and the general consensus is that it's prbably a soft V6/ hard V5 so not too bad. My elbows were hurting though, not good.

    Did 3 sets of foot on campussing after each boulder session too.

    Did some route setting as well. That's hard work ! Last week James Garden set 12 routes and then a full on training session and then 2 coaching sessions. So i'm counting it as a training session even though i only did 6 routes.

    Been on a pseudo paleo diet thing during the week. Not the full on version but one that suits me. No grains, dairy, rice, potatoes but loads of fruit and veg with a decent amount of meat. It's taken a bit of organising but i feel good off it and dropped 2% body fat in a week. Fell off the waggon big style this weekend though with a night out and posh meal followed by a bacon butty breakfast today.

    Next week i'm going to get a routes session in, 2 boulder sessions, a ride to work and back and keep on with the paleo thing. Hope to get back to Kilnsey first week of August so i'm going to train hard until then.
     hms 20 Jul 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    Thanks for the write-up, Ally. Yes it was quite a productive trip:

    M Boffi, several really long routes and then a 7a onsight. Should have given the 7a+ P2 a go, but I was so surprised to be at the P1 chains it didn't occur to me till afterwards!
    T Tarn. Getting hotter, so tried to get somewhere in the shade. 6a+, 6b+, 6c, 7a. The 7a needed 2 goes as first go I missed a crimp (which I suspect tall people don't need, so little chalk on it)
    W rest
    T Tarn. Got another 7a, again 2nd go cos I got wrong handed and couldn't see the crux pocket till too late. By my 2nd attempt the route was also in shade, and went easily.
    F travel home
    S rest. Well, mainly washing a massive stack of clothes and buying food, so not v restful!
    S TCA to try the next set of accumulator comp problems. Got on quite well, and a couple more might go with practise. 50 pull-ups in 5s when I got home.

    Now need to start training for Kaly in late Sept. May bimble a bit this week rather than really push though!
     mrchewy 20 Jul 2014
    In reply to biscuit:



    > Brilliant problems but a lot of the grades seem out. Alex Fry is stronger than he thinks.

    Welcome to my world. The only V4s I've managed have not been his and most visitors to Pinnacle moan it's tough grade-wise as he's the main/only setter normally. Always big, strong moves to top out.

     Exile 20 Jul 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    Thanks for doing fit club again Ally

    Aims:

    Rock this year: RP 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar) & lead some E3s, (White Noise, One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)

    Next winter start with VI 7

    Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow

    M: Rest
    T: Climbing at Black Crag again. Led Needle Arete, (E3 6a) with a bit of wobbling. Have led it before, (about two years ago?) but had to rest on the peg last time. Glad to get it this time. Also led The First Touch (E1 5b) which was very good.
    W: Rest
    T: 1 hr fell run
    F: 50min on 6b+ traverse - ok maintenance session
    S: Nothing
    S: 1hr intervals on 7a traverse

    Weight: 11st 9lb

    Glad to keep the momentum up re routes - hopefully be able to put myself on a good E3 shortly - just hope the tickly throat I picked up on Friday comes to nothing...
     mattrm 20 Jul 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    Thanks Ally.

    STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - HVS (0/10), E1 (0/6), E2 (0/1) 11st 10lbs weight
    Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st.

    Weight - 12st

    M - Rest
    T - Rest
    W - Rest
    T - Climbing
    F - Rest
    S - Digging in the garden
    S - More digging in the garden

    Bagged the 6b+ on Thursday. Tried to get a 6a+ after the 6b+ but couldn't manage the crux move as it was a bit reachy. Spent the weekend in the garden as the forecast was poor. So a good week I guess. Got a lot of work done in the garden.

    Shoulder is a bit wonky and finger is pretty sore. So want to try and get a decent rest in. Doubt that will happen. But we'll see.

    As for the 6c, I'll try the one down at Witches Point, Hanging by a thread. I'll also probably start on the 7a down at Navigation as well.
     Tubb93 20 Jul 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    STG (by end of september)
    Boulder v6 in font (September)
    Train for font


    MTG (end of '14)
    Climb more trad
    Boulder v7
    Onsight 7a redpoint 7b

    LTG
    Lead 8a
    Boulder v9

    Really struggling for any kind of consistent training recently however this week I have been able to climb a couple of times. And this week am off to the grit for a couple of days. And my schedule is a little lighter now so should hopefully get a consistent training regime. (Fingers crossed)
     biscuit 20 Jul 2014
    In reply to mrchewy:

    > Welcome to my world. The only V4s I've managed have not been his and most visitors to Pinnacle moan it's tough grade-wise as he's the main/only setter normally. Always big, strong moves to top out.

    I'm not moaning. The problems are brilliant. People have complained about them ( that they're harder than the grade stated ) but really who cares. They're wicked problems and that's what counts. Lots of technical moves with power in there too, he's a nice bloke as well. Just take the grades with a pinch of salt

    His routes however......boulder problem on top of boulder problem for 23 metres. Hard !
     biscuit 20 Jul 2014
    In reply to hms:

    Just seen your profile pic. Rasca y Pica is a strong route. Powerful, technical and pumpy at the end. Good tick for a first 7b+. Cauche ( Yugoslavia ) was my local crag in Spain.

    Great trip too btw.
     Tyler 20 Jul 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    M: Sat in tent listening to rain
    T: Flew home, managed less than an hour at the Outhouse, the intention was to blow away the cobwebs and see if two weeks off had fixed my elbow. Elbow felt wrecked afterwards.
    W: worked late, went for a run up Bull Hill to, see if I could mange it on my dinner break, 28 mins up and 51 minutes overall.
    T: Went to Kilnesy, great fun day out, demoed a load of my party pices to ER and the Fox, I think they were impressed. Well they were speechless each time I lowered off! I actually failed to get up anything but left the crag battered which was the main aim. Elbw felt wrecked afterwards.
    F: Drove to Llaymynech forgot Gri Gri, went to Lake Vyrnwy instead and had cream tea.
    S: Porth Ysgo, first visit, wet. Left.
    S: Walked Trufan and Bristly ridge. Went to the Outhouse afterwards intending to do 10x double laps of the yellow - managed 1 double in about 6 attempts before skin, psyche and elbow all gave up on me.

    Still not sure where I'm going, I can climb but my elbow is knackered so I'm not going to get up anything that really motivates me. Maybe switch to trad but I'm not sure that'll help, I'm obviously no alpinist and my hill running sucks.
     Tyler 20 Jul 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:
    I know a fair few on here are from the Bristol area, are many/any of you going to the Bristol BMC festival next weekend?
    Post edited at 23:51
     Luke Owens 21 Jul 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:
    Cheers for the stats Ally.

    Been on a non-climbing holiday In Greece so I'll do a double update.

    After getting back on the project yesterday I'm really torn between actually doing more quick ticks/onsighting and carrying on sieging stuff. I'm on session number 6 now (albeit short sessions), I'm wondering what would be better for my climbing...

    W/C 7th July
    M: Repeaters

    6 Sets of 6 Reps (2mins rest between sets):

    All 6 sets open hand - 30mm edge - 6 x 7sec on/3sec rest

    Couldn't mix it up with use of half crimp, grip kept failing? Possibly due to zero warm up.

    T: Repeaters

    6 Sets of 6 Reps (2mins rest between sets):

    All 6 sets open hand - 30mm edge - 6 x 7sec on/3sec rest

    Couldn't mix it up with use of half crimp still, grip kept failing but not as much as yesterday.

    W: Flying to Greece

    T: Holiday

    F: Holiday

    S: Holiday

    S: Found some DWS

    W/C 14th July
    M: Went back and did some barefoot (ouch!) DWS above the Med. Really easy stuff F4 - F5+ but good fun. Got pumped on some jugs!

    T: Holiday

    W: Holiday

    T: Flying back home

    F: Rest

    S: Gardening Club

    S: Very short evening session at Dinbren back on the project. Really bad warm up on the proj, everything felt a bit weird due to not climbing properly for a couple of weeks.

    Didn't keep warm after warming up, freezing in shorts. Had a really crap redpoint attempt in the dark.
    Post edited at 08:39
     Luke Owens 21 Jul 2014
    To the masses of FitClub:

    I've got Wednesday off work for my Birthday and I'm heading out climbing all day.

    I'm thinking of heading to Malham or Kilnsey as I've never been to either, I'm concious that it's still going to be hot then. Which crag will be the best bet? I'm looking for routes 6c - 7b to get on too, any recommendations?

    Cheers
     Tyler 21 Jul 2014
    In reply to Luke Owens:

    If its sunny stay away from Malham, it gets and intensifies any sun going! Also the styleiat Malham takes a bit more getting used to than at Kilnsey (although the small crimps of Malham might suit a Dinbren aficionado in time). Unfortunately the two warm ups at Kilnsey (Directissima and open road) are both a bit wiggy so either warm up by stick clipping something or just don't get put off.

    Alternative Optional Extra
    WSYIWIG
    Hardy Annual
    Smooth Torquer

    In some ways Trollers Gill might give you a better day out but the crag itself is not as iconic as Kilnsey
     Pagan 21 Jul 2014
    In reply to Luke Owens:

    It's warm and humid up here at the moment so Malham's definitely best avoided. The wind looks like it's going to swing back to an easterly from Tuesday so Kilnsey should be pretty good.

    To add to Tyler's list I thought Ground Effect was the best 7b I've done at Kilnsey, brilliant climbing up the groove. At the same grade Sticky Wicket is also decent and I quite enjoyed Quiet Flight at 7a+. If you can stretch to 7b+ then Frankie is awesome and might suit you if you're used to techy vert stuff - the first bolt is very high but if you don't have a long stick you can climb the bottom of Balas and traverse easily across to clip it.
     hms 21 Jul 2014
    In reply to Tyler:

    er, no. I'm famously anti-social and consider a crag a bit crowded if there is anyone else there, so the thought of a heaving Avon Gorge fills me with dread! That's just me though - really hope it's a great weekend for everyone who likes that sort of thing, as I think a lot of effort has gone into the preparation.
     hms 21 Jul 2014
    In reply to biscuit:

    It's a great route isn't it! I was there on a coaching course with Silvi, with a goal of cracking 7b. The 7b she suggested was to the left of the upper tier - Tommahawk maybe? Steep and slippery tufas with a few really brutal long power moves which I didn't get on with at all and found utterly sapping to work. So she then suggested Rasca y Pica as a better bet. Loved it.

    Are you the person that AJM mentioned who was based at the Olive Branch btw? I was there in Feb but think you'd come back to the UK by then.
     Dandan 21 Jul 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    Thanks Ali, not got outside this week due to the arrival of Mavis, our border terrier puppy. I'm no longer sure I'll ever be able to get anything productive done ever again, she is somewhat distracting

    M: Chest; dumbell press, machine press, pec deck
    T: Climb; indoor boulder v0-v6, 300 move aerocap
    W: Shoulder; barbell raise, arnold press, bent over lat raise, machine lat raise, cable raise with rope, cable lateral raise
    T: Core; crunches, l hangs, front levers
    F: PUPPY!
    S: PUPPY!
    S: PUPPY! (do you see a pattern emerging here?)

    Gym sessions were nice and solid, nothing exciting but good form, good weights and no nasty twinges.
    Climb on Tuesday was great, as usual started with every v0-v1 in the room, then some harder stuff on the steep wall, got sucked in and ended up working a hard v6. It was big, awkward pinches rather than crimps so quite gentle on the finger (relatively), but the finger felt great anyway, its practically fixed now, i'm seriously considering getting on Vulcan next time we get outside, it would be a nice tick to get back into things.

    Things are positive currently, just a little frustrating that i have very little opportunity to get outside, but it will come eventually, pretty soon Mavis will be able to go out for walks after her jabs so she can come to the crag with us.
    OP Ally Smith 21 Jul 2014
    In reply to Tyler:

    > I know a fair few on here are from the Bristol area, are many/any of you going to the Bristol BMC festival next weekend?

    Get me! I got a personal invite from Martin Crocker, but alas the combination of friends stag do and visiting parents have put paid any plans to getting down to brizzle this weekend
    OP Ally Smith 21 Jul 2014
    In reply to Tyler:

    Re. Elbow.

    School boy error going BIG after a rest; better to ease yourself back into it.

    Trad is my default activity for sore elbows/finger strains; you need to get the intensity right though - for me anything up to about 6b+ (E4?) is okay on lime and mtn rock; sport/trad grade correlations breakdown on grit/slate for me though.
    OP Ally Smith 21 Jul 2014
    In reply to Luke Owens:

    Kilnsey will be out of the sun from about 1130 onwards. If there's a breeze the crag will be in good nick conditions wise. I can point out some routes that aren't in the guide i lent you that would make suitable OS targets, and maybe some stuff that Danielle would find alright?

    Malham will be a sauna/sun trap until at least 5pm. Fine for evening cragging, but you likely to get roasted on a day trip.

    OP Ally Smith 21 Jul 2014
    In reply to Tyler:

    Adding to Tyler's list:

    > Alternative Optional Extra
    - good juggy climbing with slightly more intense start and finish - my current favourite warm-up as it isn't polished. Use/ignore the rests out right to control the pump/boost the grade

    > WSYIWIG
    - good techy vert - 7b? Would probably suit you Luke.

    > Hardy Annual
    - B*tch of a move at the top of the starting groove and another tricky bit at the top

    > Smooth Torquer
    - short and burly, not what you go to Kilnsey for.

    New Mystique would probably be the best warm-up for you? http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=32827
    Ignore the extension which is a bit loose

    The Directissima is a classic Kilnsey right of passage, but is polished!
    OP Ally Smith 21 Jul 2014

    Thanks for the kind comments regarding last week’s successes – inevitable come down this week with no significant ticks. Overall, lots of the dogging sessions that felt like an-cap work outs combined with biking on “rest” days have left me feeling battered this morning – cue caffeine overdose!

    LTG (End 2014):
    - Healthy shoulders & elbows – keep following the physio
    - Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime - as much about being a skinny wretch as it is having strong digits it seems
    - Do “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum
    - Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)

    MTG (Summer/Autumn 2014):
    - Finalise house purchase and build some home training facilities.
    - Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham.
    - True North, Kilnsey.
    - Waddage, Tor
    - Maintain trad resurgence and try and on-sight an E6?
    - Ramp up an-cap and aero-cap aiming for a peak in the autumn; gentle finger-boarding to re-hab ring finger and keep aero-cap ticking over.
    - Aim for fighting weight of 74kg and 6.6% BF – Not been on the scales this morning, but suspect I’m a fatty this morning though

    STG (The coming week)
    - More injury niggles – maintain physio on shoulder & back; re-start finger icing
    - Do some aero-cap
    - Fit it all in around visiting parents!

    Last week:
    M - Pantymwyn – multiple attempts at a relatively short 7C/+. Tickled the top 3 times once I’d optimised beta. Felt boxed afterwards.
    T - Rest – shoulder physio (snapped my theraband) & stretching
    W - Back to Pantymwyn – more goes on the short 7C/+. Tickled the top 6 times! Tried an 8A/+ after and got a full shutdown; barely managed half the moves. Ring finger feeling tweaky.
    T - Tor – super hot and greasy – worked all the moves on the Chimes headwall, and Waddage extension. I was boxed on the second tie-in.
    F - Rest – shoulder physio, antagonists & stretching
    S - Sacked off climbing due to sore shoulders and biblical rain. Took a 3.2L Audi TT out for a test drive Flat 15miler on road bike including my first KOM on a 1.2km canal path section.
    S - Kilnsey – 7a/+ x2 warm-up. Then got on True North; second time up I finally sussed the crux beta (put trailing foot back on after putting heel/toe on the jug) and then did it as a link from Pull Tilt belay to the reinforced jug. Also sorted the long lock-off (redpoint crux) and did a link from reinforced jug through this move to the rail. Pleased with progress, especially given the hot and sweaty conditions. Dogged Urgent Action to re-familiarise myself, and finished off with redpointing Myra Hindley. Long day, ate too much; light snacking works for redpointing, but should’ve had something more substantial for lunch on a dogging day.
    Post edited at 11:27
     Banned User 77 21 Jul 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    Thanks for putting this together again.. decent week.. 90+ for the first time in a good few months after 80+ last week..

    I blogged about getting over my ITB issues recently http://iainsrunning.blogspot.com

    m: 12.1 miles, 9 miles on the road then gave in and went in the gym as thunderstorms got too scary
    t: am: steady 5 miler. pm: 8.5 miles with6 x 800m reps, very very humid
    w; 16 miles on the road 7:10 pace, very warm.
    t: 4.8 miles at lunch slow. 10.3 miles in evening, really suffered with chaffing..
    f: am: 7.5 miles road and trail slow. pm: 5.6 miles road 7:40 pace
    s: 10.3 miles Newport news state park, VA, nice trails. 7:50 pace
    s: lunch: 5.36 miles VA, 7:30 pace. pm: 5.25 miles 7:45 pace after 6 hour drive back

    Need to add more quality now, keep at 90. I have a marathon in 3 weeks but only need to run sub 3 to qualify for Boston which will also function as a quality training run for Chicago.
     AJM 21 Jul 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    Is it accidental that the Brandler Hasse has gone from your list?

    Sounds like many projects are being picked up!
    OP Ally Smith 21 Jul 2014
    In reply to AJM:

    B-H has been put on temporary hold - it'll have to be a Summer '15 objective.

    La Geurre Sainte at christmas is the current BHAG
     AJM 21 Jul 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    Ah well. Have to see you when we get home I guess...!
    OP Ally Smith 21 Jul 2014
    In reply to AJM:

    YYFY! House exchange lined up for tomorrow morning.

    I'll soon be posting in UKC Gardening Club weekly updates!
     JayK 21 Jul 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    There will certainly be no crushing!

    Went down the climbing academy this afternoon to find that after 4 weeks I have become fat and weak. My finger isn't fully healed. Well I'm not really sure actually. It doesn't hurt at all, but it's not right. Just going to continue to take it easy while in Spain and for another month in august. Hopefully the slow build up will strengthen the finger.

    What a complete and utter arse.
     grubes 22 Jul 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    well done ally
     grubes 22 Jul 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:
    > grubes – Sounds like the strength is still there, just the fitness that’s missing? How about trying New Mystique for less steep Kilnsey sport?

    Yea Think I just need to get back into it last week wont help.

    Goal:
    Back up to 7a
    7a in chorro
    lose weight
    get core strenght and body tension back

    M-Th: Nothing
    F: Fly to cologne. Drank far too much and managed split end of my toe open badly at around 3.30am went back to the hostel
    S: woke up at 6.30 could not sleep.
    went for a three hour stroll around the city.
    pm went water skiing managed two runs before toe stopped play.
    night ate massive steak and drank too much while exhausted.
    got to hotel around 2am
    S: woke up at 7 read till 9 went for another 3hour stroll around cologne
    Ate sausage and flew home.

    Lots of walking this weekend nothing overly hard just more recovery. did a bit of swimming and water skiing but my toe stopped me early sadly.

    Hopefully get some trad in tonight if I get out of work at a reasonable time.
     grubes 22 Jul 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    My garden is more of an allotment which is currently being quite successful

    Already eaten a couple of courgettes and beans.
    Also got a years supply of garlic and my squash is flowering so will have some soon.
     Luke Owens 22 Jul 2014
    In reply to Tyler, Pagan and Ally:

    Cheers guys, some people seem to think WYSIWYG is 7b+? Quite a tall order for me in a session but if it really suites my style it might be worth it.

    I've heard Ground Effect just has a hard start then it's not too bad? Useful beta anyone?

    Looks like we'll be heading to Kilnsey in the morning then heading over to Malham towards the evening. If anyone's out i'll be the one with orange pants and stupid hair!
     Tyler 22 Jul 2014
    In reply to Luke Owens:

    > Cheers guys, some people seem to think WYSIWYG is 7b+? Quite a tall order for me in a session but if it really suites my style it might be worth it.

    I'd say it's easier than Ground Effect and Sticky Wicket

    > I've heard Ground Effect just has a hard start then it's not too bad? Useful beta anyone?

    I thought this was hard when I went on it again last week, its also tricky going for the fourth bolt and if warm feels desperate/insecure. If you only have one day I'd swap this for Quiet Flight then, if you find you've still got time, you can get a quick tck of Conglomarete (7a, better than it looks and goes to the same belay as QF so you can stick the clips in for a flash go).

    > Looks like we'll be heading to Kilnsey in the morning then heading over to Malham towards the evening.

    You're doing this the wrong way around! Are you after beta for Malham as well?
     Luke Owens 22 Jul 2014
    In reply to Tyler:

    Cheers for the beta Tyler! I'll check out the routes you've mentioned! I'll probably give WYSIWYG a go seems as it's shorter too.

    Going off what Ally said, I thought it was better to spend the majority of the day at Kilnsey then Malham in the evening rather than most of the day at Malham, due to the sun being out?
     Pagan 22 Jul 2014
    In reply to Luke Owens:

    I wouldn't bother with Malham at all unless it cools down a bit. Even in the evening it's still been warm at Kilnsey, you'd probably need skin grafts on your fingers after a trip to Malham at the moment.

    Ground Effect has a hard/powerful start then a sit down rest then a sequency groove with a slightly scary clip (the fourth) - easiest to get the jugs above it before you try and clip - then about 50' of rambling to finish.
     J B Oughton 22 Jul 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith: Absolutely no training to report this week!

    Been at a festival in Spain so not even the slightest bit of exercise apart from jumping around a lot... the combination of that and malnutrition and dehydration has led to some decent weight loss though! Will start again tomorrow.
     Humperdink 23 Jul 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    > Humperdink – Another good week of running volume – did you get the hoped for 800m time?

    Thanks for doing this weeks Ally, as for the time - see below:

    M: 35mins steady 5M
    Tu: 16min easy + strides 2/3M
    W: 800m @ Watford. Ended up in a race with 3 of my clubmates which was interesting. Felt ok but not great and sadly never really got into the race ended up a bit stuck at the back and unable to move up. Finished in 11th in a time of 2:00.69 - so no sub 2 and not even a consolation PB as I missed my PB by 0.05 sec! 6M total
    Th: 40mins steady 5/6M
    F: 35mins easy 5M
    Sa: 15mins easy + strides 2/3M
    Su: Vets Inter-area challenge @ Solihull. In very humid/ hot conditions I was down to do both 1500m and 3000m. Ran the 15 first just to win so sat in until 300m to go when I kicked hard, got a gap and was able to ease up in the last 50m. 1st in 4:14ish. The 3000m I went from the gun and someone came with me which got me slightly worried. Managed to drop him after 4 laps and ran the rest solo to win in 8:51. Time was never going to be quick in those conditions but felt strong after the 1500 so reasonably happy with that. ~12M total with all the warming up and down.

    ~38M total for the week so pretty low mileage but some good racing in there, just a shame about the 800m time. Not sure if I'll have another crack at it this season as now need to start building strength for 5/10K and a return to the road in the autumn.

    STG:
    sub 2 for 800m (2:00.65)
    sub 4 for 1500m (3:59.38 tick)
    sub 15 for 5000m (14:53.6 tick)
    MTG:
    sub 31min for 10K
    run a half marathon
     leon 25 Jul 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    LTG(2014): Pleasure Dome.
    VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

    Mon: Arc(30 mins). Repeaters.
    Tue: Chee Dale.
    Wed: Arc(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V3). Repeaters.
    Thu: Horseshoe.
    Fri: Weights & Core.
    Sat: Arc(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V3). Repeaters.
    Sun: Push-ups& Pull-ups.

    Cheers for putting the post up Ally. Good week of training. The Arc session felt like Arc (no rests) and was able to increase intensity as well. Feeling stronger on the 4x4, thinking of upping to 5x5. Progress is slower on the fingerboard.

    I was rubbish @ Chee Dale. Tried a 6c & a 7a. On both routes I kept getting the sequence completely wrong, not spotting good footholds & spending too long sympathising with the pain my forearms were feeling.

    Horseshoe a bit better, first 6b+ onsight of the year. Although I really would have liked to have been solid @ 6b+ on-sighting by now.

    Two weeks of holiday now with the second week in Pembroke (first time on the south coast). I don't really think I'm climbing too well so I'll just aim to get experience in Pembroke & maybe it'll suddenly all come together.
     biscuit 25 Jul 2014
    In reply to hms:

    Soumds like Tomohawk. Horses for courses. I got Tomohawk 2nd go but never got Rasca y Pica. Too sustained after the powerful start. Silvi makes it look easy.

    I'm not the Andy who was at the OB. I used to work for Silvi and lived 5 mins from Cauche ( Yugoslavia).

    I miss Silvi, but not the dogs
     mbh 26 Jul 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:
    Been on my travels this week, on way to the Dolomites for some Via Ferrata with my wife.

    As well as 4 VFs, did 5 5-6 mile runs, first two flat ones, in Heidelberg, before watching the WC final in a bar with 100s of very happy Germans, then Munich followed by 3 hilly there and back ones from Corvara up towards the Gardena pass, about 1500 ft each.
    Post edited at 20:17

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