Thanks for the kind comments regarding last week’s successes – inevitable come down this week with no significant ticks. Overall, lots of the dogging sessions that felt like an-cap work outs combined with biking on “rest” days have left me feeling battered this morning – cue caffeine overdose!
LTG (End 2014):
- Healthy shoulders & elbows – keep following the physio
- Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime - as much about being a skinny wretch as it is having strong digits it seems
- Do “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
MTG (Summer/Autumn 2014):
- Finalise house purchase and build some home training facilities.
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham.
- True North, Kilnsey.
- Waddage, Tor
- Maintain trad resurgence and try and on-sight an E6?
- Ramp up an-cap and aero-cap aiming for a peak in the autumn; gentle finger-boarding to re-hab ring finger and keep aero-cap ticking over.
- Aim for fighting weight of 74kg and 6.6% BF – Not been on the scales this morning, but suspect I’m a fatty this morning though
STG (The coming week)
- More injury niggles – maintain physio on shoulder & back; re-start finger icing
- Do some aero-cap
- Fit it all in around visiting parents!
Last week:
M - Pantymwyn – multiple attempts at a relatively short 7C/+. Tickled the top 3 times once I’d optimised beta. Felt boxed afterwards.
T - Rest – shoulder physio (snapped my theraband) & stretching
W - Back to Pantymwyn – more goes on the short 7C/+. Tickled the top 6 times! Tried an 8A/+ after and got a full shutdown; barely managed half the moves. Ring finger feeling tweaky.
T - Tor – super hot and greasy – worked all the moves on the Chimes headwall, and Waddage extension. I was boxed on the second tie-in.
F - Rest – shoulder physio, antagonists & stretching
S - Sacked off climbing due to sore shoulders and biblical rain. Took a 3.2L Audi TT out for a test drive
Flat 15miler on road bike including my first KOM on a 1.2km canal path section.
S - Kilnsey – 7a/+ x2 warm-up. Then got on True North; second time up I finally sussed the crux beta (put trailing foot back on after putting heel/toe on the jug) and then did it as a link from Pull Tilt belay to the reinforced jug. Also sorted the long lock-off (redpoint crux) and did a link from reinforced jug through this move to the rail. Pleased with progress, especially given the hot and sweaty conditions. Dogged Urgent Action to re-familiarise myself, and finished off with redpointing Myra Hindley. Long day, ate too much; light snacking works for redpointing, but should’ve had something more substantial for lunch on a dogging day.
Post edited at 11:27