/ Quickdraws for sport climbing
Something with a big crab and thick sling. Can't really go wrong. Go to a shop and have a feel.
Might be worth waiting till you get there and visit a Decathalon or the like where you will pick up six Camp sports climbing QD's for about €40.
Just a thought!
You can get 5 for 30 quid in decathlon UK. They're not very nice, but I doubt that's surprising.
I've got a set of DMM Shadow sport draws with the new Alpha Clip gate. Really ergonomical (rope practically falls into the biner), tough enough for heavily working routes, and I think the Shadow is one of the best biners to grip. Highly recommended.
You should either get the cheapest QDs you can find, or good sport QDs.
I have Spectre 2's as trad draws - they're great for that. being cheap, pretty light and typical superb DMM build quality. But for a proper sport climbing QD you want a beefy bolt-end karabiner with a hookless nose, and fat nylon tapes. And if you just want cheap, there are cheaper options although they won't be anywhere near DMM build quality.
One other factor to consider is compatability with a clip stick. The crab gate on some of my older draws can't be held open properly on my Beta Stick.
I have the dmm sport draws can't remember name but I like the wide tapes etc if your going to recycle them into your trad rack the spectres would be great
For purely sport climbing the DMM alpha are brilliant for redpointing. Also the shadows. They are stout plenty of material where the bolt will over time chew the biner. The clean nose make them really easy to clean off steep routes.
Spectres are good but maybe too light weight for redpointing. Would be good for long onsighting where your carrying maybe 10-15 drawers.
Take a look at these deals:
I wouldn't use the term 'build quality' here. All equipment is CE stamped so has been well tested. The differences will be in weight and design subtleties that make them nice to use.
I've got some of the Decathlon Simond draws... they're a good workhorse quickdraw, though you might want something lighter for big routes (DMMs are about 2/3 the weight of the Simonds).
I love the Shadows as well - they're my main do everything krabs for non winter climbing. DMM also sent me one of the Alphas and a couple of the Aeros to try, write up here http://lightfromthenorth.blogspot.fi/2013/10/dmm-shadow-dmm-alpha-and-dmm-aero.html
The Aeros being cheapish are great value for money having the same gate as the more expensive draws. I think any of them would be great to have as a rack for sport climbing.
A keylock nose on both ends is important I reckon.
I was quite impressed by my friend's new Aero rack - nearly as nice as my Alphas but at about £10/draw instead of £17/draw when I bought them...
The nylon isn't quite as wide as the Alphas, but still wide enough to grab, and I quite like the green :P
And what, pray, are "weight and design subtleties that make them nice to use" if they aren't build quality?
My current sport 'draws are DMM Aeros that are about four years old. I have a some similar krabs, about the same age and same amount of use, from Austri Alpin: compared to the DMMs they have suffered far worse wear and the gate action has become rough. Austri Alpin is a reputable company and I don't expect their karabiners to break, but to suggest that the DMM ones aren't better built would be ludicrous.
I've got a bunch of DMM quickdraws with the Thor carabiners. Love them. Quality is top notch, and the extra strength of the Thor biners gives me a bit of extra peace of mind. (even though non-Thor biners are certainly strong enough for pretty much every situation.)
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