/ Quickdraws for sport climbing

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PhilWS on 20 Jul 2014
Going to France without my usual climbing partner so need to purchase some QD's for a bit of light sport climbing. There are some good deals out there on DMM Spectre 2's but just wondered if there were any other thoughts out there that people would like to share.
Jackwd - on 20 Jul 2014
In reply to PhilWS:

Something with a big crab and thick sling. Can't really go wrong. Go to a shop and have a feel.
MaranaF - on 20 Jul 2014
In reply to PhilWS:

Might be worth waiting till you get there and visit a Decathalon or the like where you will pick up six Camp sports climbing QD's for about 40.

Just a thought!
humptydumpty - on 20 Jul 2014
In reply to PhilWS:

You can get 5 for 30 quid in decathlon UK. They're not very nice, but I doubt that's surprising.
purplemonkeyelephant - on 20 Jul 2014
In reply to PhilWS:

I've got a set of DMM Shadow sport draws with the new Alpha Clip gate. Really ergonomical (rope practically falls into the biner), tough enough for heavily working routes, and I think the Shadow is one of the best biners to grip. Highly recommended.

https://scontent-a-ams.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/t31.0-8/1077499_10153110023365584_772966766_o.jpg
AlanLittle - on 21 Jul 2014
In reply to PhilWS:

You should either get the cheapest QDs you can find, or good sport QDs.

I have Spectre 2's as trad draws - they're great for that. being cheap, pretty light and typical superb DMM build quality. But for a proper sport climbing QD you want a beefy bolt-end karabiner with a hookless nose, and fat nylon tapes. And if you just want cheap, there are cheaper options although they won't be anywhere near DMM build quality.
Fraser on 21 Jul 2014
In reply to PhilWS:

One other factor to consider is compatability with a clip stick. The crab gate on some of my older draws can't be held open properly on my Beta Stick.
alasdair19 on 21 Jul 2014
In reply to PhilWS:

I have the dmm sport draws can't remember name but I like the wide tapes etc if your going to recycle them into your trad rack the spectres would be great
Ian Broome - on 21 Jul 2014
In reply to PhilWS:

For purely sport climbing the DMM alpha are brilliant for redpointing. Also the shadows. They are stout plenty of material where the bolt will over time chew the biner. The clean nose make them really easy to clean off steep routes.

Spectres are good but maybe too light weight for redpointing. Would be good for long onsighting where your carrying maybe 10-15 drawers.

PPP - on 21 Jul 2014
Mike Stretford - on 21 Jul 2014
In reply to AlanLittle:

> And if you just want cheap, there are cheaper options although they won't be anywhere near DMM build quality.

I wouldn't use the term 'build quality' here. All equipment is CE stamped so has been well tested. The differences will be in weight and design subtleties that make them nice to use.

I've got some of the Decathlon Simond draws... they're a good workhorse quickdraw, though you might want something lighter for big routes (DMMs are about 2/3 the weight of the Simonds).
In reply to Ian Broome:

I love the Shadows as well - they're my main do everything krabs for non winter climbing. DMM also sent me one of the Alphas and a couple of the Aeros to try, write up here http://lightfromthenorth.blogspot.fi/2013/10/dmm-shadow-dmm-alpha-and-dmm-aero.html

The Aeros being cheapish are great value for money having the same gate as the more expensive draws. I think any of them would be great to have as a rack for sport climbing.

A keylock nose on both ends is important I reckon.
andrewmcleod - on 21 Jul 2014
In reply to TobyA:

> The Aeros being cheapish are great value for money having the same gate as the more expensive draws. I think any of them would be great to have as a rack for sport climbing.

I was quite impressed by my friend's new Aero rack - nearly as nice as my Alphas but at about 10/draw instead of 17/draw when I bought them...

The nylon isn't quite as wide as the Alphas, but still wide enough to grab, and I quite like the green :P
AlanLittle - on 21 Jul 2014
In reply to Mike Stretford:

> I wouldn't use the term 'build quality' here. All equipment is CE stamped so has been well tested. The differences will be in weight and design subtleties that make them nice to use.

And what, pray, are "weight and design subtleties that make them nice to use" if they aren't build quality?

My current sport 'draws are DMM Aeros that are about four years old. I have a some similar krabs, about the same age and same amount of use, from Austri Alpin: compared to the DMMs they have suffered far worse wear and the gate action has become rough. Austri Alpin is a reputable company and I don't expect their karabiners to break, but to suggest that the DMM ones aren't better built would be ludicrous.
Kai - on 21 Jul 2014
In reply to PhilWS:

I've got a bunch of DMM quickdraws with the Thor carabiners. Love them. Quality is top notch, and the extra strength of the Thor biners gives me a bit of extra peace of mind. (even though non-Thor biners are certainly strong enough for pretty much every situation.)
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PhilWS on 21 Jul 2014
Many thanks for the suggestions - think I will spend a bit more time looking. Guess I was drawn to to the Spectres as my experience of outdoor climbing so far has been mainly trad....


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