UKC

Just watched a video on ukc of Jordan buys repeating a route called Charlie don't surf goes at e8 6c he lead it with preplaced gear how come this is just not given a bolted grade surely if its a trad route it should be lead ground up. What's the hardest onsight grade to date surely that should be the hardest grade I think it's e8 but I could be wrong for me that's the hardest grade to date.

In reply to neil0968:

Unless birketts on-sight of fear of failure has been beaten it is currently e8 6c.

Lots of routes are graded with with pre placed runners in mind, depends how the first ascent was done.

Jordans ascent may have been ground-up pulling the ropes after falls or rests? haven't watched it yet.

In reply to neil0968:

Hi Neil. I suspect you must be trolling, but... He didn't lead it with pre-placed gear. It's hard to tell what exactly the in-situ piece is that he clipped, but as the route is described in the logbooks as a direct start to Driveby and this apparently has a peg on it, it seems fair to assume that this is what he clipped. Obviously this is permanent gear. It looked to me like he placed everything else on lead

Anyway, and more importantly, I think that a lot of commenting on well known climbers on UKC is unwarranted. Your post is far from vitriolic (as some are) but to me it still reads as a bit negative towards his ascent (Jordso, like everyone else in the world, is allowed to headpoint if he so wishes). I don't know Jordan, but I'm sure that he just sees himself as a normal climber who likes to go out climbing in his spare time, and were there a video of you or anyone else doing things differently to how he enjoys, I strongly doubt that he would criticise your choice to do so.

Obviously anyone who has climbed for ten minutes should appreciate that there is a bit difference in difficulty between different styles of ascent, but that doesn't mean people can't spend their time as they please.

In reply to Andy Reeve:

Not trolling just think don't really understand climbing grades he's ascent was a fantastic effort would never be able to get up a route like that on top rope even. I think there was two preplaced pieces. But who cares I think it's my poor English I think the point or question I was trying to ask came out the wrong way. I don't even know what some of your words mean in your reply

In reply to neil0968:

Glad yo're not trolling, so in that case tell me which parts you don't understand and I'll try to make them clearer.

Where do you think there were 2 pre-placed pieces?

In reply to Andy Reeve:

What is wrong with commenting on what other climbers do?

In reply to The Pylon King:


We're only allowed to say "well done, wow sponsored by black diamond? Better buy some quickdraws!"

In reply to Andy Reeve:

Neils post is not "far from vitriolic", it simply is not. I think asking a few questions about style is far from wrong and can prompt reasoned discussion. You could also ask whether a grade should be different,knowing what gear to place as he obviously does with the cam higher up. This isn't critical, its asking a question. Ethics at the top end filter down and only by asking about them do we have a discussion and possibly change attitudes i.e chipping/bolts. I've never met JB, but have met other top end bods and all have been happy to chat and been very open to my (maybe naïve) questions.
Chris

In reply to cwarby:

I totally agree.

In reply to cwarby:

Do you know what Vitriolic means?

In reply to 3 Names:

Yes - bitter criticism. Your point???

In reply to neil0968:

He didn't lead it with pre-placed gear. What you on about? Are you watching a different video?

In reply to neil0968:

Neil,

If you look again he clips a cluster of gear at the start of the video clip that he has undoubtedly spent a bit of time constructing. I guess watching him placing that gear on easy ground wasn't too interesting.
On the meat of the route he clips into a peg that has a sling hanging down from it and ten places a cam near the top. That's it as far as I can see.

So the peg is already in place with some tat on it but everything else is placed on the lead I think.

But you have started an entertaining fight anyway

In reply to andyathome:

When I watched it I guessed it was a tri-cam or something (probably due to the sling). So it turns out to be a peg, but even if it was pre-placed gear, to suggest that a sport grade would be more appropriate is just silly!

In reply to neil0968:

Psst, it's called punctuation. You should try some, it's great.

In reply to Fraser:

Fraser' That is just. A bit bitchy; as it doesnt really relate to the original question at all and the puncheration of the OP' didnt really affect the meanin of the kwestion. A lot of these question's are quite transparent even if they are essentially illiterate.

Did you really struggle to understand the question being asked? Really?

Hey - I'm a reall gramar,; spelin andpuncheration cop mysen sometimes. But. Im not shoor its called for heer.

In reply to cwarby:


Your post only seems to make sense if you think it means the opposite

In reply to neil0968:

Can you please use some punctuation additional to the lone full stop you put there?

In reply to andyathome:

I posted my quip about punctuation before seeing that Fraser had beaten me to it.

Whilst the "meaning of the question" may still be clear, it is my opinion that posts in the style of this OP simply make the OP come across as (and this is not directed toward this particular OP, but more a general comment) lazy, uncaring and witless, and it affects the quality of responses massively.

In reply to Blue Straggler: no can do my English is crap.

In reply to neil0968:

On the larger issue about whether it is reasonable to critique (or outright abuse!) other climbers on forums I have two points:
1) Yes it is! It's freedom of speech essentially and if I want to say that I think Adam Ondra looks like a lesbian or Arnaud Petit only ever topropes when I see him at the crag, I have every right to do so (though of course everyone else has the right to call me out on being an idiot).
2) I give some credence to the Homer Simpson belief that if you put yourself out in the public limelight, you volunteer to get a broadsiding from anyone who wants to take a shot at you (warranted or not). If you write a blog, take photos, publish videos, promote companies and generally give yourself a public persona then you have to accept that the flip side of adulation, accolades and hero-worship is snide remarks and bitter grumpy people