/ Sport Climbing on Culm

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CptBeans - on 22 Jul 2014
Hi Guys,
Just to keep you updated about some recent routes that I've bolted and climbed on culm. Found some crappy piece of rock just outside of Bude and bolted a few routes on it. Its brilliantly steep, no natural protection and the routes range from around 6 meters up to 35 meters. All my bolting work is a bit rough and ready at the moment, safe, but any advice on how to make it look a bit neater and an easy way of doing it would be great! I'm a little reluctant to give out too many details, as I know that some people dislike bolts. But if you're interested in climbing my routes and giving me a good idea on grades then that would be ace!

Cheers Guys,
Rich
Bob on 22 Jul 2014
In reply to CptBeans:

Be careful you don't step out in to the sunlight.
Iain Peters - on 22 Jul 2014
In reply to CptBeans:

Are you for real? There is currently a wide consensus against bolting on the Atlantic and Culm coasts amongst both local and visiting climbers. Hopefully these bolts are so rough and ready they can and will be "readily" removed.
CptBeans - on 23 Jul 2014
In reply to CptBeans:

Yes I'm 100% serious. I've chosen a bit of rock with no existing trad routes or bouldering on them and to be honest no chance there could be. There is now a venue for local climbers to train. Not that tide effected either. The routes aren't obvious and people wouldn't normally go past them, including climbers. I'm turning culm into a top climbing destination. You're either with me or against me, but you can't really stop me...
pasbury on 23 Jul 2014
In reply to CptBeans:

I suggest you back this up with a location/pictures or go back to threatening goats.
Skip - on 23 Jul 2014
LakesWinter on 23 Jul 2014
In reply to CptBeans:

Are you an idiot? No bolts on Culm coast...
pasbury on 23 Jul 2014
In reply to Skip:

Yes I saw that - could be anywhere. The rock could be culm/Atlantic coast material..... or not.
Ron Kenyon - on 23 Jul 2014
In reply to CptBeans:

Have you ever heard about the BMC and local area meetings to discuss and get agreement (or not on these things). Maybe a bit bureaucratic but need to have some control over the small amount of rock we have in this country to "play" with.

Iain Peters - on 23 Jul 2014
In reply to CptBeans:

I hope you have very deep pockets for your bolting plans because you will need them. As for your claim to "turn culm into a top climbing destination", perhaps you should take a look at the logbooks on this site, and the history of, venues such as Lower Sharpnose, Vicarage Cliff, Blackchurch Rock, Dyer's Lookout and Cornakey to name just a few.

However, if this is not a troll, it might be a good idea, as you're a local to meet up with others in the area and argue your case. Mark Kemball, a co-author for the new guide to the area, and a local activist lives in Bude, I'm on Dartmoor but spend much of the time climbing on this coast along with many others, and you can easily get in touch with any of us through UKC.
Iain Peters - on 23 Jul 2014
In reply to Skip:

Hi Skip. Looking at that photo more closely I see it's titled "top hangers" but the sea-washed boulders at the bottom are just a few metres away. I reckon this is a puerile wind-up.
Goucho on 23 Jul 2014
In reply to Iain Peters:

I think this could be a troll Iain - look at the profile?

Then again, it might worryingly not be?
Iain Peters - on 23 Jul 2014
In reply to Goucho:

> I think this could be a troll Iain - look at the profile?

> Then again, it might worryingly not be?

Goucho, you may well be right. Shades of the mythical Eroica bolt troll on UKC some time back which generated a huge response? The trouble is the photo shows real bolts on rock that is remarkably similar to sedimentary coastal culm, so even if it's a wind up the guy is drilling. Still, every cloud has a silver lining and if these are real bolts they'll be costing him money and time which might be more enjoyably spent sampling the delights of The Walk of Life or Wrecker's Slab!!
The Pylon King on 23 Jul 2014
In reply to Iain Peters:

Yeah but those bolts and cement/glue look pretty old to me.



Iain Peters - on 23 Jul 2014
In reply to CptBeans:

> Hi Guys,

> But if you're interested in climbing my routes and giving me a good idea on grades then that would be ace!

I'd love the opportunity to have a go at your routes, as we're busy writing the new definitive guide to the N Coast, and therefore all the new routes will be included, crap or not. Only repeats will confirm your opinion. Please send full details to either Mark Kemball or myself via UKC. Thanks in advance.

crankey - on 23 Jul 2014
In reply to CptBeans:

They will be chopped
Goucho on 23 Jul 2014
In reply to Iain Peters:
> Goucho, you may well be right. Shades of the mythical Eroica bolt troll on UKC some time back which generated a huge response? The trouble is the photo shows real bolts on rock that is remarkably similar to sedimentary coastal culm, so even if it's a wind up the guy is drilling. Still, every cloud has a silver lining and if these are real bolts they'll be costing him money and time which might be more enjoyably spent sampling the delights of The Walk of Life or Wrecker's Slab!!

It certainly would be :-)

However, is this just another example of a lack of education and knowledge - which considering we live in the age of everything at our fingertips, is a bit of a worry - or is it people believing they have some kind of entitlement to just do what they feel like?
Post edited at 15:39
Iain Peters - on 24 Jul 2014
In reply to Goucho:

Confirm that this is definitely a troll. Any further discussion is a waste of time.
Bob on 24 Jul 2014
In reply to Iain Peters:

See the second post :-)
stp - on 24 Jul 2014
In reply to Iain Peters:

Maybe the point was to tease out climbers with p poor attitudes to voice their extremist and elitist opinions. If that's the case its worked pretty well I'd say.
rhudson on 24 Jul 2014
In reply to stp:
Can you just expand on that please?

Goucho on 25 Jul 2014
In reply to stp:

> Maybe the point was to tease out climbers with p poor attitudes to voice their extremist and elitist opinions. If that's the case its worked pretty well I'd say.

Why is objecting to people wacking bolts in whatever piece of rock they feel like wacking bolts in, without consultation or respect for whether it's acceptable or not, extremist or elitist?

Bob on 25 Jul 2014
In reply to Goucho:

To stp any reasoned argument that doesn't support his viewpoint is extremist. This is especially so when those making the comments know what they are talking about and have put more effort in to the area's climbing than any troll vandal armed with a Hilti ever will.
stp - on 26 Jul 2014
In reply to Goucho:

Because its up to the first ascentionist to decide how to equip a route. People on here are objecting to the bolts without ever having visited the crag in question. That's extremist and narrow-minded.

If someone bolts a route and someone comes along and leads it from the ground up without the bolts they are then entitled to remove them if they want to.

Threatening to remove bolts without knowing the first thing about the route is simply destructive. It's a babyish attitude which says if I can't climb it you can't either so lets just smash it up so no one can. Pointless vandalism.

Interestingly in the case of this fictitious crag if there really were no gear placements at all then all the trad climbs would be solos. The addition of bolts would make no difference to climbers who want to climb without a rope.

As for consultation who on earth would one consult and why would their view be any more valid than anyone else? That's not the way new routes get done, one reason being that people fear if others find out them they might get there first.
teh_mark - on 26 Jul 2014
In reply to stp:

> Because its up to the first ascentionist to decide how to equip a route.

...who surely needs to climb within the parameters generally considered acceptable in the local area?
Cusco - on 26 Jul 2014
In reply to stp:

People on here objecting to the bolts without ever having visited the crag in question.

Ere says the Cornish Devonian local... in Sheffield.

I'd hazard a guess that Iain Peters and Mark Kemball (who are well known Culm devotees and locals) and a number of other locals have climbed on pretty much every cliff on the Culm that's not a Fowler horroshow cliff (and they've probably enjoyed some of those routes too).

You clearly know nothing of the discussions, BMC meetings etc that have taken place over the years and following on from the Edwards' Penwith era.

Whichever side of the fence you sit (and the vast majority are on the no new bolts and no replacement of fixed gear) and whether you think its wrong or right there's now a settled policy on Cornish and Devon sea cliffs. Just like there's a policy up your way of no new bolts on grit.

As for cptbeans original post, it's clearly a troll and wind up. The anonymous and blank profile says it all.
CptBeans - on 26 Jul 2014
In reply to CptBeans:

Hi Guys,

Yes you've sussed out my very obvious troll here, turns out my account wasn't that good at disguising my identidy as Mark and my dad knew who I was straight away. The reason I decided to post the OP was because
A: I was bored and
B: After finding the sport climbing crag at Widemouth Bay I had mixed feelings about it and after a disscussion with some other local climbers I thought that some of their views were wrong.

Cheers.
Goucho on 26 Jul 2014
In reply to stp:

> Because its up to the first ascentionist to decide how to equip a route.

Within the accepted style of the crag. Or are you suggesting the first ascentionist can equip the route however they wish irrespective of the accepted style for that crag? If you are, then you are demonstrating a serious lack of knowledge about climbing.

> As for consultation who on earth would one consult and why would their view be any more valid than anyone else?

I would imagine there are several thousand other climbers who's views are more valid than yours.

Or are you just being controversial and provocative for the sake of being controversial and provocative?
stp - on 26 Jul 2014
In reply to Goucho:

1. There is no accepted style for the crag. It's a new crag that no one knows anything about.

2. First ascentionists do equip routes regardless of the accepted style of the crag. Ron Fawcett did on quite a few occasions: The Cad, Tequila Mockingbird etc. In fact bolting wasn't accepted anywhere not so long ago so that boundary was pushed everywhere. That's how climbing progresses. All of the hardest new routes (that broke boundaries) have sport routes from 7c+ upwards.

> Or are you just being controversial and provocative for the sake of being controversial and provocative?

No. A person who has visited a crag and climbed there surely has a much more valid opinion on the routes that someone who hasn't. Why is that controversial or provoactive. It seems obvious to me.
stp - on 26 Jul 2014
In reply to Cusco:

> whether you think its wrong or right there's now a settled policy on Cornish and Devon sea cliffs.

So if someone finds a great new crag, say 30m high, overhanging all the way, easiest routes of say 7c but no natural protection are you seriously suggesting that people wouldn't sooner or later bolt it up and climb there? And that if they did that it would be a bad thing?
Bob on 26 Jul 2014
In reply to stp:

Been there, done that.

Someone better came along.

By the name of Dave Birkett.
Timothy Greenhalgh - on 26 Jul 2014
In reply to CptBeans:

Hi, is just North of Widemouth Bay?
NigeR - on 26 Jul 2014
In reply to Bob:

Monty Pythons 'Nudge Nudge' sketch adapted.

Trad Climber: 'Evening, squire!

Sport Climber: (stiffly) Good evening.

Trad Climber: Is, uh,...Is your wife a goer, eh? Know whatahmean, know whatahmean, nudge nudge, know whatahmean, say no more?

Sport Climber: I, uh, I beg your pardon?

Trad Climber: Your, uh, your wife, does she go, eh, does she go, eh?

Sport Climber: (flustered) Well, she sometimes 'goes', yes.

Trad Climber: Aaaaaaaah bet she does, I bet she does, say no more, say no more, know whatahmean, nudge nudge?

Sport Climber: (confused) I'm afraid I don't quite follow you.

Trad Climber: Follow me. Follow me. That's good, that's good! A nod's as good as a wink to a blind boulderer!

Sport Climber: Are you, uh,...are you selling something?

Trad Climber: SELLING! Very good, very good! Ay? Ay? Ay? (pause) Oooh! Ya wicked Ay! Wicked Ay! Oooh hooh! Say No MORE!

Sport Climber: Well, I, uh....

Trad Climber: Is, your uh, is your wife into Sport, ay?

Sport Climber: Um, she likes Sport, yes!

Trad Climber: I bet she does, I bet she does!

Sport Climber: As a matter of fact she's very fond of Malham.

Trad Climber: 'Oo isn't? Likes Limestone, eh? Knew she would. Likes Limestone, eh? She's been around a bit, been around?

Sport Climber: She has traveled, yes. She's from Sheffield. (pause)

Trad Climber: SAY NO MORE!!

Trad Climber: Sheffield, saynomore, saynomore, saynomore, squire!

Sport Climber: I wasn't going to!

Trad Climber: Oh! Well, never mind. Dib dib? Is your uh, is your wife interested in....Bolting, ay? 'Bolting, ay', he asked him knowlingly?

Sport Climber: Bolting?

Trad Climber: Drill Drill, clip clip, wink wink, nudge nudge, say no more?

Sport Climber: Bolting new routes, eh?

Trad Climber: They could be, they could be new routes. or retro bolting, you know, RETRO Bolting?

Sport Climber: No, no I'm afraid we don't have a Hilti.

Trad Climber: Oh. (leeringly) Still, mooooooh, ay? Mwoohohohohoo, ay? Hohohohohoho, ay?

Sport Climber: Look... are you insinuating something?

Trad Climber: Oh, no, no, no...yes.

Sport Climber: Well?

Trad Climber: Well, you're a man of the world, squire.

Sport Climber: Yes...

Trad Climber: I mean, you've been around a bit, you know, like, you've, uh.... You've 'done it'....

Sport Climber: What do you mean?

Trad Climber: Well, I mean like,....you've WORKED A Sport Route....

Sport Climber: Yes....

Trad Climber: What's it like?
jayjackson - on 27 Jul 2014
In reply to NigeR:

Superb! Can I put this up on the notice board at work please?!
Sally Bustyerface - on 27 Jul 2014
In reply to jayjackson:

> Superb!

(Sigh). If you say so......


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