UKC

So here I am at Font in the heat trying to do the right thing by not using chalk.
However, im failing on problems I know I'd get up with a dab of chalk.
The thing that is bothering me is that everyone else at the crag is using chalk - even the French.
What are the actual rules/guidelines regarding chalk use?

E

In reply to Enty:

Make sure its on your hands not the rock. Dust off well before climbing. Leave the bag on the ground.

Them's my rules

Historically chalk was always frowned on at Font but times they are a changing.

In reply to Enty:

I think pof is the no-no, havent heard anyone say not to use chalk

In reply to JimboWizbo:

Pof was the oui oui, chalk the non non.

In reply to JimboWizbo:

Historically, Bleusard ethics have been pretty firm that chalk is evil and will destroy the rock whereas pof is all good.

The official line doesn't seem to have changed, but these days chalk is pretty common - and not just among young folks who don't get the ethics, Bleusard legends like Jo Montchausse seem to be happy using it in moderation, too.

Personally I might go for a quick dab of chalk if I keep greasing off a particular problem, but avoid just slathering it on by default. I have yet to be shouted at. I also don't go to font in high summer, though...

In reply to Enty:

Chalk's fair game. As has been pointed out literally everyone uses it, even the old school.

Of course all the usual guidelines about cleaning problems when you've finished etc. still apply.

In reply to Enty: It's a strange one isn't it, bleau.info are always pushing the no chalk line, but just about everyone you see including the doormat wielding Bleausards seem to be using it these days. Like RichardMC said, I think the main thing is to chalk your hands enough to dry them and not plaster the rock in copious amounts. Also give it a brush after you are done.

In reply to Enty:

Use chalk, brush it off after. Don't use pof. If anyone gives you grief tell 'em to do one!

In reply to Enty:

Use Pof on the easier circuits (Yellow and Orange) and in the non-overhanging boulders (bleu and red). After rain, like last week, the magnesium is just horrible.
For me magnesium should be used after Font 5 and plus.

In reply to Enty:
AAAHHH! What have you done? We've now got a thread on "can't you just not clip the bolts?" AND one on chalk in Font running simultaneously!

I'm just popping out to retro-bolt some bollocks trad route that no one ever does just so we can make it a triple Sunday-night whammy.

And all boulderers ARE gay. And is it still an onsight if someone told me it was hard for the grade?

In reply to Jon Stewart:


Doesnt that count as "Beta"?

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Oh f*ck - I just saw the thread on not clipping the bolts - wow how do some people learn how to breathe???

And I saw a photo of Joe Montchausse in the guidebook wearing a chalk bag.

So all is good - almost.


E

In reply to Enty:

Here is some info on "opium":
http://bleau.info/cleanup/magnesium.html

Will ask Bart van Raaij (Topos 5+6 and 7+8) to react.