/ Climbing Rules and things?

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KomClimber on 24 Jul 2014

I'm a climber from South Africa now living in Macclesfield and I'm trying to find assistance on the rules governing climbing in the UK. Are there such things? Do you require climbing permits?
humptydumpty - on 24 Jul 2014
In reply to KomClimber:

I would guess the BMC Access Database is all you need, but I've not climbed much in UK either. What rules are there in S.A.?
Jacob Ram - on 24 Jul 2014
In reply to KomClimber:

As a generalisation, no. A few places IE parts Avon Gorge ,you need insurance, but joining the BMC will give you that automaticly.
Nick Russell on 24 Jul 2014
In reply to Jacob Ram:

> A few places IE parts of Cheddar Gorge, you need insurance, but joining the BMC will give you that automaticly.
Bob on 24 Jul 2014
In reply to KomClimber:

Generally there is free and open access to all crags. However there are some crags that have restrictions at certain times of year due to nesting birds, sometimes it's just one buttress rather than a whole crag.

As Humptydumpty says, check the BMC RAD page - https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ and ask on here if you need to know about a particular crag.

Perhaps the biggest restriction on our crags is the weather :-) At the moment that isn't a problem but sometimes a crag might not get any visits from one year to the next because it doesn't come in to condition.
KomClimber on 24 Jul 2014
In reply to humptydumpty:

Thanks for the info. SA is pretty relaxed and almost impossible to control cause of the huge selection of climbing. Permits are generally required for National Parks. I am just aware of all the rules here in the UK so I'm expecting there to be some relating to climbing ;)
KomClimber on 24 Jul 2014
In reply to Jacob Ram:

I'll have a look at the BMC. Thanks for the info. Glad to know some things in life are still free ;)
KomClimber on 24 Jul 2014
In reply to Bob:

Thanks very much!
I'll have a look at the BMC and revert back here with questions.
Other than climbing guide books, is there a website that lists the sport routes around the UK?

Hoping to make the most of warm weather yes!!
Bob on 24 Jul 2014
In reply to KomClimber:

Not really, probably your best bet is to use the logbooks link at the top of this site then filter your search requirements.
humptydumpty - on 24 Jul 2014
In reply to KomClimber:

> Permits are generally required for National Parks.

It's the primary difference between UK and Africa - here normal life is rigidly governed by rules, but you get free entry to national parks.


KomClimber on 24 Jul 2014
In reply to Bob:

Thanks again!
galpinos - on 24 Jul 2014
In reply to KomClimber:
> Other than climbing guide books, is there a website that lists the sport routes around the UK?
>
> Hoping to make the most of warm weather yes!!

What grade do you climb? People can then give you recommendations that are ability appropriate.

Enty - on 24 Jul 2014
In reply to KomClimber:

UKC Forum Rule 17:

You must not enjoy both sport climbing AND trad climbing under any circumstances. It must be one or the other.

E
stp - on 24 Jul 2014
In reply to KomClimber:

> Other than climbing guide books, is there a website that lists the sport routes around the UK?

www.sportsclimbs.co.uk

It doesn't cover everywhere but there's a fair bit on there to get you started. Major areas missing are North Yorkshire, North Wales Limestone and Portland on the South coast.

aln - on 24 Jul 2014
In reply to Nick Russell:

automatically
BarrySW19 on 25 Jul 2014
In reply to KomClimber:

> I'll have a look at the BMC. Thanks for the info. Glad to know some things in life are still free ;)

It's still nice to send a few quid to the local bolt fund if you're going to a sport climbing location though :)
Guy Atkinson - on 25 Jul 2014

> Other than climbing guide books, is there a website that lists the sport routes around the UK?

You're on it...

DancingOnRock - on 25 Jul 2014
In reply to humptydumpty:

> It's the primary difference between UK and Africa - here normal life is rigidly governed by rules, but you get free entry to national parks.

Normal life is rigidly governed by rules?

The mind boggles.
Al Evans on 25 Jul 2014
In reply to KomClimber:


> Other than climbing guide books, is there a website that lists the sport routes around the UK?

This might be useful
http://www.sportsclimbs.co.uk/
KomClimber on 25 Jul 2014
In reply to BarrySW19:

Agreed!
ads.ukclimbing.com
KomClimber on 25 Jul 2014
In reply to stp:

Looks like a great site - thanks!
KomClimber on 25 Jul 2014
In reply to Enty:

Indeed, no hints as to which is currently favoured.
KomClimber on 25 Jul 2014
In reply to galpinos:

Absolutely no idea at the moment. Will also have to adjust to the British system while here.
galpinos - on 25 Jul 2014
In reply to KomClimber:

http://www.rockfax.com/publications/grades/

Sport grades should be fine, a stright conversion from SA grades to French Sport grades (which we use here in the UK for sport climbs).

UK trad grades are a bit more nuanced, feel diffrent for everone on diferent rock types and are the subject of endless debate but the general advice is to work out where you should be, drop a few grades for your first route, pick a safe one and see how it goes.
Bob on 25 Jul 2014
In reply to KomClimber:

> Indeed, no hints as to which is currently favoured.

Easy to tell the two apart: a trad climber is happy to tell you about the routes he's done; a sports climber is happy to talk about his failure on his latest project.


Note to sports climbers - don't forget to append the line below

:-)
In reply to Al Evans:

> This might be useful


A useful site, but of course it largely covers Gary's own routes. Nothing in there on Portland (a huge area), Cheddar, North Wales Coastal Limestone, Yorkshire (another huge area) etc.


Chris
KomClimber on 25 Jul 2014
In reply to Chris Craggs:

I do like books so hopefully I'll be able to pick up some along the way!
KomClimber on 25 Jul 2014
In reply to Bob:

Good one! Looking forward to hopefully meeting you all along the way ;)
Max factor - on 25 Jul 2014
In reply to KomClimber:

There are no rules, but a thousand conventions you must conform to or Mr Angry of UKC forums will start and indignant debate.

I can't imagine that it's that different to SA.

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