UKC

NEWS: VIDEO: Reclimbing the classics #5 - Grand Illusion

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 UKC News 25 Jul 2014
Grand Illusion, 5 kbToni Yaniro talks about his 1979 ground breaking first ascent of Grand Illusion, 8a, at Lake Tahoe, CA.
13 year old Mirko Caballero gets to learn about what the ethics were like back in the day and practice his crack climbing skills.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69067
 GeoffRadcliffe 25 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC News:
It's interesting to hear Tony Yaniro's view on the ethics of crack climbing on trad. It would be interesting to compare and contrast Mirko's style of ascent with Tony's. However, it is not clear what style of ascent was adopted by Mirko Caballero. In the video we can see that he doesn't place any gear as it is all in place. So did Mirko climb it in the style of Tony Yaniro, lowering off after each fall and pulling his rope or did he practice it whilst hanging on the gear or did he simply pre-place all the gear?
Post edited at 16:44
 owensum 25 Jul 2014
Well for a start, Yaniro used hang dog methods to suss out the moves for his eventual pinkpoint FA. Mirko pinkpointed it too.
 GeoffRadcliffe 25 Jul 2014
In reply to owensum:
> Well for a start, Yaniro used hang dog methods to suss out the moves for his eventual pinkpoint FA. Mirko pinkpointed it too.

Tony confesses to trying a move before lowering off, but not to hanging on the gear and then carrying on and placing the next piece and repeating this to the top. Mirko may well have lowered off immediately after each attempt and pulled his rope which would have been better style. For me, the video would have made more sense if we knew whether Mirko's ascent was better or worse than Tony's. However it is clear he didn't lead it placing the gear as he went and using current ethics some climbers may not even count it as a true lead.
Post edited at 16:54
 owensum 25 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC News:
Yeah. Theres some discussion about this over on supertopo. This is a total guess, but Mirko (who Ive met) is a sport climber and boulderer primarily. Therefore I think it would be most likely he would work it in standard US sport climbing style - go for the onsight, and failing that, hang dog up, then keep repeating it for the red(in this case pink) point

EDIT - I guess the line has only been done twice in true trad lead style, with placing gear on lead. Its very overhanging and short, making it pretty rough for placing gear.
Post edited at 18:13
 Morgan Woods 26 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC News:

Great video as usual....can't wait for the rest.
 Robin Warden 26 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC News:

Yeah!!!!...
 Valkyrie1968 27 Jul 2014
Talking about 'ethics' without once acknowledging the kid was climbing on pre-placed gear - really?
In reply to UKC News:

An awesome looking route, even more so in the flesh!

North Wales' darkest of dark horses Neil Dyer Flashed this last summer I think!

Dunc
 Morgan Woods 27 Jul 2014
In reply to Valkyrie1968:

> Talking about 'ethics' without once acknowledging the kid was climbing on pre-placed gear - really?

You're confusing "ethics" with style.
 simes303 28 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC News:

What a fantastic looking route.
 Epsilon 28 Jul 2014
In reply to Valkyrie1968:

> Talking about 'ethics' without once acknowledging the kid was climbing on pre-placed gear - really?

The first ascent of the route was done on pre-placed gear.
 Nic_Sandy 29 Jul 2014
In reply to UKC News:

I think the ethics question is irrelevant. Someone obviously made the decision to pre-place the gear or he fall on the gear and pulled his rope or he pink pointed it. Who cares? The route is F-ing awesome looking on great looking rock, a real test piece!. I loved Tony Yaniro's take on the whole bizness, old american climbers are cool dudes. I know I live in the U.S.

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