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Dolomites Via Ferratas

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 mbh 25 Jul 2014

This is a follow up to James Rushworth's earlier thread on grading of Via Ferratas, on which he and others (James, Chris the Tall, syv_k, sarahlizzy - and anyone else I have missed) were kind enough to make many recommendations as to routes.

We have just come back from a European road trip that took in Ghent (twice - go there!), Ypres, Heidelberg (watching the WC final among 100s of Germans)and Munich, all en route to and back from the Dolomites, where we stayed at Corvara and did 5 Via Ferrata.

We weren't exactly thoroughly prepared. I had hurriedly written down route recommendations made on James's thread, we went for Corvara because (I think) CtT recommended it) and we bought this Austrian guide http://www.alpinverlag.at/buecher/klettersteigfuehrer_dolomiten.html on arrival, as well as a VF kit for my wife, who had never done VFs before. I'd only done one, over a decade ago.

We did Pisciadu, Piz da Lech, Trincee, Sandro Pertini, and Piz Cir V (Kleiner Cir) and enjoyed them all immensely, apart from the last one which we did one the way out. It was too easy, too crowded and felt a bit Alton Towers.

The guide was fine, if you can read German Well (the English translations are pretty awful), except that it was hard to get an overview of where all the routes were when planning on the hoof what to do next. The topos were good, and the A-E difficulty rating, coupled with the the decimal seriousness scale did fairly well chime with how we found the various routes. C/D sections are basically dead easy. D sections require more thought, a gulp or two (the descent bits of Trincee) or a haul, but don't really present any problems. The guide puts Sandro Pertine, at 2.1 C/D and Trincee at 2.0 D which is about right. The start of Trincee is way harder than anything on Sandro Pertini, but Pertini feels more committing and is airier and exposed for longer. So I find the combination of a difficulty and seriousness rating helpful.

The area is a great destination for a holiday, if a long drive. The towns that we saw are not quaint Italian places, so don't go for that, and it is not at all cheap there, but if you camp, the toilet blocks, in Corvara at least, are the best you will find, at least if you have just come from Germany, and the scenery is simply stunning. We spent a good half hour on the peak at the end of the Trincee just taking in the view in every direction, as well as the flowers at our feet. I have never seen such an abundance of orchids and alpine flowers of every kind.

Next time we would like to do more of the mountainy VFs, such as Posnecker, Tomasselli, Finanzieri and Eterna Brigata, but as a way of getting a fit but not very highly skilled or experienced couple to do something exciting together in the mountains, VFs got our vote.
Post edited at 14:46
 Mike-W-99 25 Jul 2014
In reply to mbh:

With an easy walk in and amiable grade the Kleiner Cir is going to be busy. We did it in the rain a few weeks ago and it felt sporting for the grade and very quiet!

How were the queues on Brigata Tridentina?

The flowers are very spectacular this year.

Oscar Schuster is another more mountainy one to consider. Really enjoyed it and theres a good hut on the walk out.
OP mbh 25 Jul 2014
In reply to Mike_Watson_99:

Tridentine (Pisciadu?) was also crowded as we expected, even though we were there at 7 am, but not like Kleiner Cir which was a snarled up from bottom to top. In general, I learned to accept that there would be people around us. They were a nice crowd on the whole.

Oskar Schuster does indeed look good!
 James Rushforth Global Crag Moderator 25 Jul 2014
In reply to mbh:

Interesting read, thanks for the post. I'm glad you enjoyed you're trip. Sounds like you got a lot done despite the mixed forecast!

For the Rockfax book we decided (largely based on that thread) to stick with the dual grading system used by John Smith and Graham Fletcher in their Cicerone book with a few subtle changes and grade alterations. The feedback was that people like a 'seriousness' grade as well as a tech grade.

Get the photos up! I'll keep an eye out.
 Mike-W-99 25 Jul 2014
In reply to James Rushforth:

Thanks for the ego boosting grade upgrade on Magnifici Quattro
 Brass Nipples 25 Jul 2014
In reply to mbh:

If you want a quiet VF in that area then I'd suggest Colac. Groups don't do it because it has a reputation for rockfall. But other than a few loose stones which only move if someone kicks them, it us fine. You have VF both in ascent to the summit and easier descent.

 James Rushforth Global Crag Moderator 26 Jul 2014
In reply to Mike_Watson_99:

No problem . Working through all the crags slowly!

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