/ Beginner friendly trad climbing routes Scotland.

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Ridgewalker74 on 25 Jul 2014
Just started to lead and I'm looking for a good friendly places to practice. Somewhere that has a good few routes upto vdiff or severe, most that I can see only have one or two then the rest are beyond my capabilities cat present :-). I've been to Neilston Quarry and Auchinstarry looking for others anywhere in Scotland, thanks for any help offered.
sjminfife - on 25 Jul 2014
In reply to Ridgewalker74:

The Hawkcraig in Fife could work for you.
Trappain Law is a bit polished but has a pleasant outlook.
Stevie989 - on 25 Jul 2014
In reply to Ridgewalker74:

Loudoun Hill has a good few routes in your current range. Mostly great rock too.
tobytoolbagclimbing - on 25 Jul 2014
In reply to Ridgewalker74:

You definitely need to go to Reiff, just north of Ullapool in the highlands if you've not been before and you fancy a bit of a road trip. There's literally hundreds of routes to choose from ranging from beginners grades right up to the 'E numbers'.
Ridgewalker74 on 25 Jul 2014
In reply to Ridgewalker74:

Thanks guys, will add these to my list of forthcoming climbs. Any others?
Bob_the_Builder - on 25 Jul 2014
In reply to Ridgewalker74:

Traprain Law is really nice. really polished too. Hawkcraig can be a bit intimidating because of the sea, and logistically can be tricky with the tides. Don't let that put you off though, its awesome.

Rosyth Quarry has some good routes but neds are sometimes an issue. Other times they're very friendly and interested, thankfully that's mostly what I've experienced. I did my first trad lead there and all my gear fell out on the way up. =]
sjminfife - on 25 Jul 2014
In reply to Ridgewalker74:

As Bob says Rosyth is ok. Here's an easy to remembe rtide table from the Elie boat club http://www.eesc.org.uk/websites/123reg/LinuxPackage25/ee/sc/_o/eesc.org.uk/public_html/cms/tides

Slightly further afield Clifton is pleasant http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=49
Ridgewalker74 on 25 Jul 2014
In reply to Ridgewalker74:

Thanks again, Aberdour looks great but having trouble finding a route/topo any links?
Ridgewalker74 on 25 Jul 2014
In reply to Ridgewalker74:

Only one I could find displayed about 7 routes and poor quality.
Martin W on 25 Jul 2014
In reply to Ridgewalker74:
> Thanks again, Aberdour looks great but having trouble finding a route/topo any links?

Get hold of s copy of the SMC Lowland Outcrops guide book. That covers Aberdour, Traprain Law, Rosyth Quarry & London Hill, all suggested here, plus many others in and around the Central Belt.
sjminfife - on 25 Jul 2014
In reply to Ridgewalker74:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=14
Shows what is there. Fish head arete is easy to find
Ridgewalker74 on 25 Jul 2014
In reply to Ridgewalker74:

Thanks for all the help. Much appreciated guys.
punj - on 25 Jul 2014
In reply to Ridgewalker74:

have a look at Tulliemet too, highland outcrop guide


http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1941
sjminfife - on 26 Jul 2014
In reply to Ridgewalker74:

Don't forget Dunkeld...Craig y Bairns and Cave Crags. Enough for a day visit at your grade.
Ann S on 26 Jul 2014
In reply to Ridgewalker74:

Coming in from left field here. From Lanarkshire how about thinking of getting down to the northern Lake District. Castle Rock near Keswick and Shepherds Crag (brown slabs area) in Borrowdale would give you a good number of lower grade routes in your range. Just a thought.

Ridgewalker74 on 26 Jul 2014
In reply to Ridgewalker74:

Is there any restriction problems at Aberdour. Half the crag seems to be part of a restaurants garden area?? Hopefully there cool about it :-)
IanMcC - on 26 Jul 2014
In reply to Ridgewalker74:

Generally people don't climb on the section in the hotel garden.
sjminfife - on 26 Jul 2014
In reply to Ann S:

Good point Ann, this can be done in a day from Glasgow.
Mark Bull - on 28 Jul 2014
In reply to Ridgewalker74:

Couple of other localish venue worth a mention - Ben An in the Trossachs and Quadrocks near Largs. Neither very extensive, but worth a visit at your grades. If you want to start getting into multipitch, Polldubh (Glen Nevis) has lots of good low grade offerings.

Some more info on Hawkcraig (Aberdour) - you can access all the routes for 3 hours either side of low tide. Before/after this you can often still access some of the routes near either end. Tide tables for any date available here: http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/information-summary-list/tidal-information/ Most routes are well protected but the landings are awful, so it's worth getting some gear in sooner rather than later!

Michael Gordon - on 28 Jul 2014
In reply to sjminfife:

yep Polney is an obvious choice


Ridgewalker74 on 28 Jul 2014
In reply to Ridgewalker74:

Thank you all for the much need info, I'll put it all to good use for sure :-)
Mark Bull - on 29 Jul 2014
In reply to Michael Gordon:

> yep Polney is an obvious choice

Good climbing, though care is needed with the descent routes, which are exposed, and can be damp and slippery even when the routes are dry. An abseil down Hairy Gully is a popular option.
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adityahs - on 29 Jul 2014
In reply to Ridgewalker74:

Limekilns: not many beginner climbs, but very reassuringly safe, short and sheltered.

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