UKC

Heavy finger rolls and rest days?

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 Kemics 29 Jul 2014
Reading Eric horst's training for climbing and I'm going to include some body weight finger rolls (Olympic bar) into my training. My question is, can I include this is a climbing workout day. Ie go bouldering for an hour or two, then hit the gym on the way home. Or is it a complete work out in itself which requires a rest day . Do other people do this exercise and how do they incorporate into overall training schedule?
 UKB Shark 29 Jul 2014
In reply to Kemics:

Combining different types of sessions on the same day is a good idea. Anecdotally finger rolls followed by deadhanging is apparently effective.
 kenr 30 Jul 2014
I think the big advantage of "stacking" hard exercises into the same day is that it's easier to schedule more _rest_ in between hard workout days.

So the performance on the hard stuff might be degraded a bit because it's combined with other stuff, but what's really key for long-term hypertrophy (and avoiding injuries) is the rest in between.

Ken


 Tru 30 Jul 2014
In reply to Kemics:

I've just picked up the new training book by the Anderson twins http://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/

They state that because of the different angles and the slower speed heavy finger rolls do not improve climbing performance. You are better off spending your time doing a more climbing specific exercise.

Obviously sports science data is pretty thin on the ground so this is by no means fact, take from it what you will.
OP Kemics 30 Jul 2014
In reply to Tru:

Hmm interesting, I'm going to try one training cycle using it and see if I see any personal gains.

It's the remaining uninjured I'm struggling with. Got a mystery new pain in my forearm ...
In reply to Kemics:

Maybe try use them as finishers after a climbing session. Or do them throughout the day get the volume up. You can do finger rolls from a deadhang.
 stp 31 Jul 2014
In reply to Kemics:

The key to all training is progression and that implies measurement. You need to measure whether or not you are progressing in your climbing/training.

If you're not progressing then introducing a new exercise like finger rolls might be a one way to break through the plateau. Some of the first gains you make with any new exercise will be learning the movement and thus very specific to the exercise and not specific to climbing. However after a certain amount of time all the gains will be in terms of strength since there's only so much learning you can benefit from. After getting stronger at the exercise you might then need a period to teach your now stronger muscles in an isometric (or static) position, the way they're used in climbing.


Whether its a complete work out or not is really down to how much you do and at what intensity.

In strength training its generally best to do the minimum amount of work necessary to promote strength gains. That way you recover faster and more fully for your next work out: that is you start stronger. It also means when you plateau again you have something in reserve: you can ramp up the workload a bit more to break the plateau.

I think it's better to make slow but steady and continuous gains over a long period of time (say a year) rather than quick gains for a month or so followed by a long plateau or worse burn out or get injured. Not only will the gains be greater you should stay more motivated seeing yourself improve continuously too.
OP Kemics 31 Jul 2014
In reply to stp:

Thanks for replying. I really appreciate the detailed input

How do you decide what moderate intensity is? Do you go kind of on feel? Or a specific figure like holding a certain percentage of body weight or holding a hold for certain number of seconds?


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