UKC

i started training for a boulder competition some months ago, i started with a soft training in a hangboard, after some weeks, the training routine felt too easy for me, so i decide it to make it harder, i trained 1 month with that new routine and i decide to make it harder again because it felt easy again (that was 3 days ago), i tried my new training session and after training i felt pain in one of my fingers and in one of my arms. i had rest for 3 days and today the pain in my arm is getting better but my finger still hurts.
is this because im training harder than i need? or just because im not used to use the little holds (like the 1/2 inch 3 finger pocket)?

In reply to Juandlc:

Might be something broke.

In reply to Juandlc:

The beastmaker chaps talk of adaption to fingerboarding taking months and years, rather than weeks. I'd go steady. You've maybe tweaked a finger or something. Maybe just do the odd harder pull thrown into a normal session whilst your still adapting to that routine.

In reply to Ian Broome:

ok, thanks for the info
im going to stop my training for now and im going to visit the doctor.

In reply to Juandlc:

Which grades are you climbing and which board are you using?

In reply to Juandlc:

It definitely sounds like you could be risking an injury.

In reply to Pete Dangerous:

im climbing 5.12d / 5.13a
and im using this hangboard:
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/images/Project-Board.jpg

In reply to Juandlc:

That seems a reasonable board for that grade. Maybe you just went too hard too soon. Which exercises were you doing? Deadhangs, repeaters, frenchies?

I've read you need to slowly use the smaller holds/pockets. Build it up over time with short deadhangs before trying to do pull ups etc.

In reply to Pete Dangerous:

i train in series of 15 minutes, doing exercise like 20 seconds of deadhang from the flat edge and right after that 3 pull ups from the 2 finger pockets. or 15 seconds hanging at 90 degrees in the 1 inch 4 finger pocket with 2 pull ups from the blunt edge.
i made 3 rounds of 15 minutes varying diferent exercise

In reply to Juandlc:

I'd say either you need to break in the holds more slowly or it was an issue with not being warmed up enough for those exercises. I hope it improves quickly

In reply to Juandlc:

From the way you describe your training, you may just have hit a plateau after continuous handboard training for several months. Try taking a month's break from the hangboard and do other bouldering/climbing as a fresh stimulus, and then come back to the hangboard for a limited 4-6 week block. Your body needs this kind of variety and periodisation. Don't expect to stick to the same weekly routine, with steadily increasing intensity, for more than a few weeks.

In reply to switch:

I suppose it could be down to how his body is made? If I remember correctly, John Dunne has to take ages getting back into climbing hard, while Leo Houlding can have a lay off and get onto and climb circa 7c without any worries. Something like that anyway, the difference between them is right even if the grade isn't. What is correct training depends on the individual.

In reply to Timmd:

Sure, and pain is an indicator that the training is going wrong.

Re JD and LH and coming back from lay-offs, who knows: a different subject, but maybe they had slightly different diets during the lay offs!

In reply to Juandlc:



Holy Cr*p. Someone says something sensible on UKC shocker!!

A serious point is that I'd go and see a physio. Doctors don't get anywhere near as much training on this kind of thing as a physio will, and hence a physio will be able to make a better diagnosis.

Plus the average family doctor will just stay "stop and take ibuprofen".

In reply to John_Hat:

hahaha, just ibuprofen! i already heard that in the past
you are right, a physio is going to be better

In reply to switch:

thanks for the info, i'm going to try that training variation that you are talking about

In reply to Pete Dangerous:

when i came back to the training, im going to try to break in the holds more slowly, maybe thats a factor of the pain.
and talking about the warm up thats something that i really dont know how to do it right at home, (I train hangboard at home) i just have the hangboard and nothing else. do you have any advice in how to warm up right at home?

In reply to switch:



How mean. ()