In reply to Pewtle:
> Go for what you feel it is and put some description in the topo if there are some sketchier moves at the top on a highball that might be a struggle.
Smart.
I remember someone on here once suggesting a grading system where grades go --, -, =, +, ++ to indicate how hard the rest of the route is compared to the first couple of meters, on the basis that it doesn't do any harm to try to get off the ground and you can then work out from the grade whether or not you're happy to keep going...