This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Starting to think about a new road bike (currently using an ancient Kona Cindercone with slicks which is fiendishly uncomfortable after 10 miles)
Good deals opening up on Felt Z5 from Merlin but how long is it reasonable to expect a carbon frame to last? From what i can see the Felt's BB30 is pressed straight into the carbon. So once it starts creaking, is that it ***ked?
Alternative from LBS seems to be alu Giant Defy. Any wisdom out there?
Good deals opening up on Felt Z5 from Merlin but how long is it reasonable to expect a carbon frame to last? From what i can see the Felt's BB30 is pressed straight into the carbon. So once it starts creaking, is that it ***ked?
Alternative from LBS seems to be alu Giant Defy. Any wisdom out there?
In reply to colinakmc:
the press fit BB is replacable no worries there.
Carbon frames havent been around long enough to give them a lifespan yet, however for a road bike provided you dont have many crashes I dont think that alu or carbon have much in it. Carbon usually more expensive and usually lighter - not always though.
the press fit BB is replacable no worries there.
Carbon frames havent been around long enough to give them a lifespan yet, however for a road bike provided you dont have many crashes I dont think that alu or carbon have much in it. Carbon usually more expensive and usually lighter - not always though.
In reply to colinakmc:
Purely personal choice but I only ride steel frames. For me carbon is a fantastic material for top end racing but totally pointless and unnecessarily expensive (particularly if it gets damaged) for punters. As for Aluminium I just don't like the way it looks.
Purely personal choice but I only ride steel frames. For me carbon is a fantastic material for top end racing but totally pointless and unnecessarily expensive (particularly if it gets damaged) for punters. As for Aluminium I just don't like the way it looks.
In reply to andreas:
the way it looks? a painted frame can look like anything you want surely?
If you mean the larger diameter of the frame, meh thats neither here nor there, its a robust material and usually lighter than steel, although steel may last longer.
the way it looks? a painted frame can look like anything you want surely?
If you mean the larger diameter of the frame, meh thats neither here nor there, its a robust material and usually lighter than steel, although steel may last longer.
In reply to ow arm:
I did stress it was a personal thing! I just don't like oversized tubing, think it's ugly. I also don't like the 'feel' of aluminum, I like the way steel springs and flexes. It's lighter yeah but a frame is only what 10-15% of the weight of the bike?
I did stress it was a personal thing! I just don't like oversized tubing, think it's ugly. I also don't like the 'feel' of aluminum, I like the way steel springs and flexes. It's lighter yeah but a frame is only what 10-15% of the weight of the bike?
In reply to colinakmc:
Merlin's own Malt CR at £925 is better value and is non BB30. My friends have got them and are delighted.
Merlin's own Malt CR at £925 is better value and is non BB30. My friends have got them and are delighted.
In reply to colinakmc:
If you want long lasting don't go for aluminium, the fatigue life of aluminium is the shortest of all of the frame building materials.
There is way too much scare mongering about carbon frame lifespans btw
If you want long lasting don't go for aluminium, the fatigue life of aluminium is the shortest of all of the frame building materials.
There is way too much scare mongering about carbon frame lifespans btw
In reply to woolsack:
i was looking in to this recently as my trek pilot 2.1 is now 9 years old, I contacted trek and they said they have a lifetime warranty on the frame. Suits me.
i was looking in to this recently as my trek pilot 2.1 is now 9 years old, I contacted trek and they said they have a lifetime warranty on the frame. Suits me.
In reply to woolsack:
For me it's more about over-tightening a bolt or putting a dink in at some point during the frames life.
> If you want long lasting don't go for aluminium, the fatigue life of aluminium is the shortest of all of the frame building materials.
> There is way too much scare mongering about carbon frame lifespans btw
For me it's more about over-tightening a bolt or putting a dink in at some point during the frames life.
In reply to colinakmc:
Do you really need a carbon frame?
Does it really matter how heavy you bike is?
If you are using it to get fit, then a little extra weight only means you do a little more exercise, so it's a win win situation.
If you're racing at a professional level then go carbon, if not by alu or steel and loose the weight difference from yourself.
I ride a alu full suss because I like it, it's comfortable and I can get a lot of miles done over ground I enjoy, but I ride for fun and keeping fit is secondary to that.
Do you really need a carbon frame?
Does it really matter how heavy you bike is?
If you are using it to get fit, then a little extra weight only means you do a little more exercise, so it's a win win situation.
If you're racing at a professional level then go carbon, if not by alu or steel and loose the weight difference from yourself.
I ride a alu full suss because I like it, it's comfortable and I can get a lot of miles done over ground I enjoy, but I ride for fun and keeping fit is secondary to that.
In reply to colinakmc:
the guy that broke the record for cycling round the world a few years ago chose to do it on a carbon bike - he reckons carbon performs much better on fatigue tests than steel, alu or titanium.
the guy that broke the record for cycling round the world a few years ago chose to do it on a carbon bike - he reckons carbon performs much better on fatigue tests than steel, alu or titanium.
In reply to Bob Hughes:
I believe this is true but if I trash a tube on a steel frame it's much eaiser & cheaper to get it fixed.
> the guy that broke the record for cycling round the world a few years ago chose to do it on a carbon bike - he reckons carbon performs much better on fatigue tests than steel, alu or titanium.
I believe this is true but if I trash a tube on a steel frame it's much eaiser & cheaper to get it fixed.
Interesting article on the subject of carbon versus steel in the British Medical Journal.
http://www.bmj.com/content/341/bmj.c6801
http://www.bmj.com/content/341/bmj.c6801
In reply to Removed User:
I think that what I said, but without the research.
Do you think he offset the cost of the bike against "tools required to carry out research"?
> Interesting article on the subject of carbon versus steel in the British Medical Journal.
I think that what I said, but without the research.
Do you think he offset the cost of the bike against "tools required to carry out research"?
In reply to colinakmc:
Thanks folks, I think you're confirming that it's down to preference. I was thinking that carbon might be more compliant so less hard on my old bones, actually there doesn't seem much difference weight wise at "decent" price levels (rather than aerospace levels)
Thanks folks, I think you're confirming that it's down to preference. I was thinking that carbon might be more compliant so less hard on my old bones, actually there doesn't seem much difference weight wise at "decent" price levels (rather than aerospace levels)
In reply to ow arm:
Out of interest, do they actually mean lifetime in as long as the owner is alive? Or do they mean some nominal 'lifetime' for the frame (say 5 or 10 years or something?).
> i was looking in to this recently as my trek pilot 2.1 is now 9 years old, I contacted trek and they said they have a lifetime warranty on the frame. Suits me.
Out of interest, do they actually mean lifetime in as long as the owner is alive? Or do they mean some nominal 'lifetime' for the frame (say 5 or 10 years or something?).
In reply to Phil79:
Trek website
LIFETIME
Frames for the lifetime of the original owner (except forks, the Session, Scratch, Slash, and Ticket model frames, and the swing arms on all full suspension bicycles)
Trek website
LIFETIME
Frames for the lifetime of the original owner (except forks, the Session, Scratch, Slash, and Ticket model frames, and the swing arms on all full suspension bicycles)
Post edited at 15:31
In reply to andreas: the issues with overtightening or dinking are just as valid for Al. Carbon frames are likely too utslagsgivende al.
Ride them. I have steel, al and carbon frames bikes. I'm only little and for me al is a really poor ride and i only have one as a hack. They're to stiff and dead for me. My carbon bike is now my favourite for ride quality
Ride them. I have steel, al and carbon frames bikes. I'm only little and for me al is a really poor ride and i only have one as a hack. They're to stiff and dead for me. My carbon bike is now my favourite for ride quality
In reply to ow arm:
Fair play to them, they obviously have confidence in the product!
Another thought about warranties and such on carbon frames - as they generally exclude 'wear and tear' (as I see the trek one does), at what point do or can they reasonably say "it failed due to wear and tear"? So, if a frame fails after 20 years of daily use I would say that's a fair argument for wear an tear, but after 3 years probably not, etc...
Fair play to them, they obviously have confidence in the product!
Another thought about warranties and such on carbon frames - as they generally exclude 'wear and tear' (as I see the trek one does), at what point do or can they reasonably say "it failed due to wear and tear"? So, if a frame fails after 20 years of daily use I would say that's a fair argument for wear an tear, but after 3 years probably not, etc...
In reply to andreas:
Damage is ment to be more obvious too.
In the end it depends on the quality of the manufacture I guess.
> I believe this is true but if I trash a tube on a steel frame it's much eaiser & cheaper to get it fixed.
Damage is ment to be more obvious too.
In the end it depends on the quality of the manufacture I guess.
Post edited at 15:50
In reply to Removed User:
I hope that he didn't take time out of he working day to write that
> Interesting article on the subject of carbon versus steel in the British Medical Journal.
I hope that he didn't take time out of he working day to write that
In reply to Mike Highbury:
Are you at work at the moment Mike? ()
> I hope that he didn't take time out of he working day to write that
Are you at work at the moment Mike? ()
In reply to Timmd:
I only eat what I kill.
But, anyway, scratch my comment. Anybody who uses feet and miles in a (pseudo-)scientific paper deserves proper respect.
> Are you at work at the moment Mike? ()
I only eat what I kill.
But, anyway, scratch my comment. Anybody who uses feet and miles in a (pseudo-)scientific paper deserves proper respect.
In reply to colinakmc:
I notice the F5 is also in their sale. Have you considered that or is the geometry too aggressive for your old bones? I prefer the horizontal top tube on it...
I notice the F5 is also in their sale. Have you considered that or is the geometry too aggressive for your old bones? I prefer the horizontal top tube on it...
In reply to woolsack:
Unless it's going downhill (cf Jean Robic and Lead bidons)
> Anything 50% heavier will be slower, it's in the fiziks man
Unless it's going downhill (cf Jean Robic and Lead bidons)
In reply to wbo:
Agree with everything you say bud. I don't like aluminium at all, broken two frames and both were aluminium. I'm sure carbon gives a better or equal ride to steel, just not worth the cost for me (I don't race or anything, just ride for fun).
Agree with everything you say bud. I don't like aluminium at all, broken two frames and both were aluminium. I'm sure carbon gives a better or equal ride to steel, just not worth the cost for me (I don't race or anything, just ride for fun).
In reply to malk:
Faster/snappier handling, good for racing but less good for a long day riding, or for when you're feeling knackered at the end of a long ride.
Traditional Randonneur bikes from France are said to have the right geometry to 'take care of a tired rider'. How true it is I dunno.
> what are the advantages of an aggressive geometry?
Faster/snappier handling, good for racing but less good for a long day riding, or for when you're feeling knackered at the end of a long ride.
Traditional Randonneur bikes from France are said to have the right geometry to 'take care of a tired rider'. How true it is I dunno.
Post edited at 18:29
In reply to woolsack:
Aye including the rider
> Anything 50% heavier will be slower, it's in the fiziks man
Aye including the rider
In reply to colinakmc:
Ihave had bikes of all 3 materials, once you ride a carbon road bike there is no going back!! Stiffer, comfier, more compliant, tougher, lighter.
Steel would be next choice..Alu is too harsh!
Ihave had bikes of all 3 materials, once you ride a carbon road bike there is no going back!! Stiffer, comfier, more compliant, tougher, lighter.
Steel would be next choice..Alu is too harsh!
In reply to quirky:
I'm with you but would alter to it depends on the frame, my 853 steel racing frame is the least comfy compared to my CAAD 5, cervelo carbon and 531 tourer.
PERSONALLY I would choose my CAAD 5 over a lot of cheap carbon frames and steel is history as a racing frame but very nice for a day out riding with friends. There is no competition to carbon for a frame you're going to ride hard.
Cheers
Toby
I'm with you but would alter to it depends on the frame, my 853 steel racing frame is the least comfy compared to my CAAD 5, cervelo carbon and 531 tourer.
PERSONALLY I would choose my CAAD 5 over a lot of cheap carbon frames and steel is history as a racing frame but very nice for a day out riding with friends. There is no competition to carbon for a frame you're going to ride hard.
Cheers
Toby
In reply to Removed User:
I spent last summer on my 20yr old steel bike (Villager Criterion) pedalling up lots of hills here in the Alps. I got a Boardman team Carbon at the end of the summer and it was incredible - I felt like someone had their hand on my back pushing me up the hills (until they got past about 10% then they just feel harder anyway.)
I timed myself on the various climbs around here and reckon it made about 5 mins per hour difference. Eg climbing Col de Joux Plane to morzine (12km at av 8.5%) I was about 8 mins faster.
Also the brakes were/are amazing! I felt it most on a gentle incline which previously had killed me trying to stay with others over them and now I was able to power myself over them much better.
Still have and love my steel bike, and its great for springtime training!
I spent last summer on my 20yr old steel bike (Villager Criterion) pedalling up lots of hills here in the Alps. I got a Boardman team Carbon at the end of the summer and it was incredible - I felt like someone had their hand on my back pushing me up the hills (until they got past about 10% then they just feel harder anyway.)
I timed myself on the various climbs around here and reckon it made about 5 mins per hour difference. Eg climbing Col de Joux Plane to morzine (12km at av 8.5%) I was about 8 mins faster.
Also the brakes were/are amazing! I felt it most on a gentle incline which previously had killed me trying to stay with others over them and now I was able to power myself over them much better.
Still have and love my steel bike, and its great for springtime training!
In reply colinakmc:
I've a Giant Defy 2, 18 speed, Tiagra gearing, Sora brakes. Manic CXP 22 Rims. Shimano SPD pedals fitted, along with Catseye computer. Upgraded to 23x700 Hutchinson tyres.
Totally mint, done no more than 100 miles. (I ride my MTB.)
Size L (I'm 6'1").
Going for sale shortly for £350 (was £875 new).
PM me if interested.
> Alternative from LBS seems to be alu Giant Defy. Any wisdom out there?
I've a Giant Defy 2, 18 speed, Tiagra gearing, Sora brakes. Manic CXP 22 Rims. Shimano SPD pedals fitted, along with Catseye computer. Upgraded to 23x700 Hutchinson tyres.
Totally mint, done no more than 100 miles. (I ride my MTB.)
Size L (I'm 6'1").
Going for sale shortly for £350 (was £875 new).
PM me if interested.
In reply to Toby_W:
Madison Genesis may disagree, but they are rather in the minority.
> ...and steel is history as a racing frame but very nice for a day out riding with friends. There is no competition to carbon for a frame you're going to ride hard.
> Cheers
> Toby
Madison Genesis may disagree, but they are rather in the minority.
In reply to Dispater:
I have a defy 2 as my winter bike and can say that Alu bikes have come on a way as far as comfort is concerned, stick some 25 tyres on it and they comfort of the giant would be better than most "cheap" carbon frames, my mate has a CAAD 10 and that a good ride and he swears by it.
I have a defy 2 as my winter bike and can say that Alu bikes have come on a way as far as comfort is concerned, stick some 25 tyres on it and they comfort of the giant would be better than most "cheap" carbon frames, my mate has a CAAD 10 and that a good ride and he swears by it.
In reply to Liam M:
That looks lovely, the review on road cc made me smile though, so stiff it almost feels like a carbon frame and not so comfy on rougher roads.
I'd have one though, lovely looks and that's what really matters.
Cheers
Toby
That looks lovely, the review on road cc made me smile though, so stiff it almost feels like a carbon frame and not so comfy on rougher roads.
I'd have one though, lovely looks and that's what really matters.
Cheers
Toby
In reply to Toby_W:
But that's not what they said?
http://road.cc/content/review/116216-genesis-volare-team-953-road-bike
''It's a comfortable bike most of the time, in that distinct way of a good steel-framed bike. On smooth Tarmac it quietly buzzes along, just the sound of the tyres for company. Get it on a less well maintained road though, and the ride is a touch jolty, and the rougher the road gets the more it feeds vibration through to the handlebars and saddle. This is no doubt a consequence of the oversized tube profiles and enormous head tube and bottom bracket. At times it feels more like a stiff carbon frame than a steel frame, which just shows how much stiffness they've managed to add with all the oversized tubes.''
Having specified stiff racing aluminium bars and stem, it could possibly/probably be more comfortable with carbon stem and bars, or more 'noodly' alu bars which would flex a bit more. Tyre size and the build of the wheels would play a part too. The frame is just one of a few factors affecting comfort.
http://petematthews.com/home/index.php/products
Pete Mathews has interesting things to say about wheels, and related comfort levels, if you've not heard of him he had a great reputation.
> That looks lovely, the review on road cc made me smile though, so stiff it almost feels like a carbon frame and not so comfy on rougher roads.
> I'd have one though, lovely looks and that's what really matters.
> Cheers
> Toby
But that's not what they said?
http://road.cc/content/review/116216-genesis-volare-team-953-road-bike
''It's a comfortable bike most of the time, in that distinct way of a good steel-framed bike. On smooth Tarmac it quietly buzzes along, just the sound of the tyres for company. Get it on a less well maintained road though, and the ride is a touch jolty, and the rougher the road gets the more it feeds vibration through to the handlebars and saddle. This is no doubt a consequence of the oversized tube profiles and enormous head tube and bottom bracket. At times it feels more like a stiff carbon frame than a steel frame, which just shows how much stiffness they've managed to add with all the oversized tubes.''
Having specified stiff racing aluminium bars and stem, it could possibly/probably be more comfortable with carbon stem and bars, or more 'noodly' alu bars which would flex a bit more. Tyre size and the build of the wheels would play a part too. The frame is just one of a few factors affecting comfort.
http://petematthews.com/home/index.php/products
Pete Mathews has interesting things to say about wheels, and related comfort levels, if you've not heard of him he had a great reputation.
Post edited at 23:13
In reply to Timmd:
just my interpretation. I guess I was imagining an even stiffer version of my RSP 853 racing frame and I could add all sorts to that to try and make it more comfortable but always ride my stiffer, more comfortable carbon frame that's also half the weight.
It is lovely and I like the new lemond one even more but I'd only buy another steel frame now if it was made for me so I could choose the handling characteristics and paint job.
Thank you for the link, hand built wheels are another matter.
Cheers
Toby
just my interpretation. I guess I was imagining an even stiffer version of my RSP 853 racing frame and I could add all sorts to that to try and make it more comfortable but always ride my stiffer, more comfortable carbon frame that's also half the weight.
It is lovely and I like the new lemond one even more but I'd only buy another steel frame now if it was made for me so I could choose the handling characteristics and paint job.
Thank you for the link, hand built wheels are another matter.
Cheers
Toby
Post edited at 23:31
In reply to colinakmc:
To semi hijack the thread there's carbon frames by a company called Ican bikes http://www.icanbikes.com/# . They are from Shenzhen. I wonder what quality they are, china isn't the cheap n nasty anymore. Could be a bargain, could be a lemon !
To semi hijack the thread there's carbon frames by a company called Ican bikes http://www.icanbikes.com/# . They are from Shenzhen. I wonder what quality they are, china isn't the cheap n nasty anymore. Could be a bargain, could be a lemon !
In reply to chris fox:
There have been huge discussions on the various bike sites and a few people have some lovely photos of them with the custom paint jobs they've chosen.
Damn you and that link Tim by the way, must not, must not...
Cheers
Toby
There have been huge discussions on the various bike sites and a few people have some lovely photos of them with the custom paint jobs they've chosen.
Damn you and that link Tim by the way, must not, must not...
Cheers
Toby
In reply to Timmd:
Word for word from the review of the new Genesis (project zero) road bike, from the company itself:
The dilemma, then, for the four-strong Genesis design team was how to create a bike that retained the Genesis values while being competitively light enough to compete on the world's biggest stages. It had to become a carbon bike.
Having read the rest though I'd still have any of their bikes, I've always thought them well designed and thought out and no doubt well engineered.
Cheers
Toby
Word for word from the review of the new Genesis (project zero) road bike, from the company itself:
The dilemma, then, for the four-strong Genesis design team was how to create a bike that retained the Genesis values while being competitively light enough to compete on the world's biggest stages. It had to become a carbon bike.
Having read the rest though I'd still have any of their bikes, I've always thought them well designed and thought out and no doubt well engineered.
Cheers
Toby
In reply to colinakmc: I think it is all about your weight, my friend has had two carbon frames break on him with only moderate use in under two years BUT he is not a light fella (over 75kg).
The company did not replace the frame under warranty giving allsorts of excuses. I think they only test with light riders and the frames just don't last.
I would go for Alu, eg Specialised if you buy the bike form new give you a fabulous warranty, eg fall off and they check the frame and replace it if its bust, hope this helps Sam
The company did not replace the frame under warranty giving allsorts of excuses. I think they only test with light riders and the frames just don't last.
I would go for Alu, eg Specialised if you buy the bike form new give you a fabulous warranty, eg fall off and they check the frame and replace it if its bust, hope this helps Sam
In reply to sam benson:
:-O :-O :-O
I'm just going to drag my lardy 76kg a** over to the loo and barf up those two fig rolls I've eaten. I am six three and big boned. How do I do a crying emoticon you b**tard.
Cheers
Toby
P.s I am joking just in case I'm just not funny again.
:-O :-O :-O
I'm just going to drag my lardy 76kg a** over to the loo and barf up those two fig rolls I've eaten. I am six three and big boned. How do I do a crying emoticon you b**tard.
Cheers
Toby
P.s I am joking just in case I'm just not funny again.
In reply to Toby_W:
Never mind. ()
I've been sitting indoors and studying for so long my middle is starting to spread over the top of my jeans, it's not by a huge amount, but still annoying.
Never mind. ()
I've been sitting indoors and studying for so long my middle is starting to spread over the top of my jeans, it's not by a huge amount, but still annoying.
In reply to colinakmc:
Can't be bothered to read all the posts above but here's my hap'orth: Carbon is a wonderful material for bike frames thanks to its light weight and the fact that manufacturers can make it stiffer in some directions than others, hence the great handling you get from carbon frames. Carbon manufacturers are learning and developing new techniques all the time so even a 2014 bike is better than the 2013 version.
On BB30, the bearings are driven quite snugly into alloy shells, which are bonded into the frame. Many people seem to think this arrangement causes creaking but in my experience the creaking noises are caused by microscopic movements of the crankset axle inside the inner bearing races. If you can find a mechanic who understands this and who installs the crank axle with some bearing fit compound, you won't be troubled with creaking noises.
Can't be bothered to read all the posts above but here's my hap'orth: Carbon is a wonderful material for bike frames thanks to its light weight and the fact that manufacturers can make it stiffer in some directions than others, hence the great handling you get from carbon frames. Carbon manufacturers are learning and developing new techniques all the time so even a 2014 bike is better than the 2013 version.
On BB30, the bearings are driven quite snugly into alloy shells, which are bonded into the frame. Many people seem to think this arrangement causes creaking but in my experience the creaking noises are caused by microscopic movements of the crankset axle inside the inner bearing races. If you can find a mechanic who understands this and who installs the crank axle with some bearing fit compound, you won't be troubled with creaking noises.
In reply to Rigid Raider:
how can you tell it's microscopic movements? did you actually use a microscope as you pedalled it. good man if you did.
> Can't be bothered to read all the posts above but here's my hap'orth: Carbon is a wonderful material for bike frames thanks to its light weight and the fact that manufacturers can make it stiffer in some directions than others, hence the great handling you get from carbon frames. Carbon manufacturers are learning and developing new techniques all the time so even a 2014 bike is better than the 2013 version.
> On BB30, the bearings are driven quite snugly into alloy shells, which are bonded into the frame. Many people seem to think this arrangement causes creaking but in my experience the creaking noises are caused by microscopic movements of the crankset axle inside the inner bearing races. If you can find a mechanic who understands this and who installs the crank axle with some bearing fit compound, you won't be troubled with creaking noises.
how can you tell it's microscopic movements? did you actually use a microscope as you pedalled it. good man if you did.
In reply to Mike Highbury:
The BMJ always have lighthearted articles in their Christmas edition. They're a reet laugh, them doctors.....
The BMJ always have lighthearted articles in their Christmas edition. They're a reet laugh, them doctors.....
In reply to unclesamsauntibess:
If you're really interested in this I'll email you a pic of the wear marks and surface erosion on the machined areas of my FSA crankset axle where it is supposed to be a tight fit inside the inner bearing races.
I refitted the crankset with bearing fit compound a month ago and since than have been enjoying blissful silence from my BB.
If you're really interested in this I'll email you a pic of the wear marks and surface erosion on the machined areas of my FSA crankset axle where it is supposed to be a tight fit inside the inner bearing races.
I refitted the crankset with bearing fit compound a month ago and since than have been enjoying blissful silence from my BB.
1
In reply to colinakmc:
After an age of dithering just bought a Felt F5, delivery awaited! Despite being low and racy it's at least 6cm shorter in the cockpit than my old Kona, strange how fashions change....
After an age of dithering just bought a Felt F5, delivery awaited! Despite being low and racy it's at least 6cm shorter in the cockpit than my old Kona, strange how fashions change....
In reply to colinakmc:
If it's 'low and short', perhaps you bought the wrong size? Racy usually means low and long.
> After an age of dithering just bought a Felt F5, delivery awaited! Despite being low and racy it's at least 6cm shorter in the cockpit than my old Kona, strange how fashions change....
If it's 'low and short', perhaps you bought the wrong size? Racy usually means low and long.
In reply to colinakmc:
>From what i can see the Felt's BB30 is pressed straight into the carbon. So once it starts creaking, is that it ***ked?
No, it just means you might have to spend some time figuring out which one of the many 'fixes' works in your case. It can be a pain, but it's not terminal (unless you are very impatient).
Just remember, the point is to enjoy the ride, not the bike. Have fun!
> ... but how long is it reasonable to expect a carbon frame to last?
As long as any other bike, whatever the material.>From what i can see the Felt's BB30 is pressed straight into the carbon. So once it starts creaking, is that it ***ked?
No, it just means you might have to spend some time figuring out which one of the many 'fixes' works in your case. It can be a pain, but it's not terminal (unless you are very impatient).
Just remember, the point is to enjoy the ride, not the bike. Have fun!
In reply to colinakmc:
Exactly. And for riding it's tough to beat carbon (and yes I currently own a steel bike, and have owned Ti too).
I would expect a carbon bike to outlast an Al one.
6cms short sounds to me like the bike is too small - that's a big difference even between a compact race/crit bike and a tourer. How does it handle? Fashions do change, but if I compare my carbon 29 to my 20 year old Bontrager steel the modern bike is longer and a lot easier to ride
Exactly. And for riding it's tough to beat carbon (and yes I currently own a steel bike, and have owned Ti too).
I would expect a carbon bike to outlast an Al one.
6cms short sounds to me like the bike is too small - that's a big difference even between a compact race/crit bike and a tourer. How does it handle? Fashions do change, but if I compare my carbon 29 to my 20 year old Bontrager steel the modern bike is longer and a lot easier to ride
In reply to woolsack:
There's way too much scare mongering about aluminium fatigue life.
The dominant end-of-life for any bike is the owner thinking "I fancy a new bike..."
> If you want long lasting don't go for aluminium, the fatigue life of aluminium is the shortest of all of the frame building materials.
> There is way too much scare mongering about carbon frame lifespans btw
There's way too much scare mongering about aluminium fatigue life.
The dominant end-of-life for any bike is the owner thinking "I fancy a new bike..."
1
In reply to colinakmc:
The creaking noise actually comes from the BB axle fretting inside the BB30 bearings, which can be cured by smearing bearing fit compound on the axle where it sits in the bearings.
The creaking noise actually comes from the BB axle fretting inside the BB30 bearings, which can be cured by smearing bearing fit compound on the axle where it sits in the bearings.
In reply to Rigid Raider:
That certainly worked for me, but I'm not sure it cures all possible BB30 creaks.
> The creaking noise actually comes from the BB axle fretting inside the BB30 bearings, which can be cured by smearing bearing fit compound on the axle where it sits in the bearings.
That certainly worked for me, but I'm not sure it cures all possible BB30 creaks.
In reply to Marek:
Not a fan of BB30/Pressfit - it's a solution to a manufacturing problem (cheaper to make) not a riding problem.
Back to subject matter. I've had steel (Reynolds 531 handbuilt), Alu (Specialized Allez), Carbon (Specialized Roubaix SL2) and have hired titanium (Van Nicholas, dunno which model). It's a while since I've ridden a steel road bike though my hardtail is steel (Cotic Solaris) and is brilliant. My commuter is also steel but it's from On-One and isn't particularly racy - it's heavier than the Cotic! Least favourite material is Alu - running over a matchstick sent enough shocks through the frame that you thought it was a house brick you'd hit.
So it's a toss-up between carbon and ti. I've had the Roubaix for four years now and it's fine, good for long days in the saddle, any shortcomings are due to the rider not the bike. We had a trip to Majorca a couple of weeks ago and I hired the Van Nick for the three days riding and loved it from the moment I rode it on loops outside the shop getting the saddle height correct. Liked it enough that the next road bike will be ti (also gets round the BB30 problem).
Last year I hired a Trek Madone carbon bike and it wasn't too different from the Roubaix in fee so I suspect that most frames in that £1500 - £2500 range are pretty similar. I upgraded the wheels on the Roubaix from the stock Shimano R500s to Hope EVO and that made a world of difference, it felt a completely different bike and it took a day or two to adjust.
Not a fan of BB30/Pressfit - it's a solution to a manufacturing problem (cheaper to make) not a riding problem.
Back to subject matter. I've had steel (Reynolds 531 handbuilt), Alu (Specialized Allez), Carbon (Specialized Roubaix SL2) and have hired titanium (Van Nicholas, dunno which model). It's a while since I've ridden a steel road bike though my hardtail is steel (Cotic Solaris) and is brilliant. My commuter is also steel but it's from On-One and isn't particularly racy - it's heavier than the Cotic! Least favourite material is Alu - running over a matchstick sent enough shocks through the frame that you thought it was a house brick you'd hit.
So it's a toss-up between carbon and ti. I've had the Roubaix for four years now and it's fine, good for long days in the saddle, any shortcomings are due to the rider not the bike. We had a trip to Majorca a couple of weeks ago and I hired the Van Nick for the three days riding and loved it from the moment I rode it on loops outside the shop getting the saddle height correct. Liked it enough that the next road bike will be ti (also gets round the BB30 problem).
Last year I hired a Trek Madone carbon bike and it wasn't too different from the Roubaix in fee so I suspect that most frames in that £1500 - £2500 range are pretty similar. I upgraded the wheels on the Roubaix from the stock Shimano R500s to Hope EVO and that made a world of difference, it felt a completely different bike and it took a day or two to adjust.
In reply to Marek:
So true!
> (In reply to woolsack)
>
> [...]
>
> [...]
>
> There's way too much scare mongering about aluminium fatigue life.
> The dominant end-of-life for any bike is the owner thinking "I fancy a new bike..."
>
> [...]
>
> [...]
>
> There's way too much scare mongering about aluminium fatigue life.
> The dominant end-of-life for any bike is the owner thinking "I fancy a new bike..."
So true!
1
In reply to wbo:
Thanks for your advice everyone. My point about the F5 was that although it passes for "low and racy" nowadays my old Kona is even longer - a ridiculous 61 cm top tube and 130mm stem! Haven't ridden the F5 yet but I'm expecting it to be a lot more comfy than the Kona. For £899 what's not to like?
Thanks for your advice everyone. My point about the F5 was that although it passes for "low and racy" nowadays my old Kona is even longer - a ridiculous 61 cm top tube and 130mm stem! Haven't ridden the F5 yet but I'm expecting it to be a lot more comfy than the Kona. For £899 what's not to like?
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...