UKC

Nearly 3 years climbing, most of it indoor bouldering and Trad, very little sport. I've somewhat hated sport climbing because i could never climb as hard as i thought i should be able to considering what i could boulder. The fear of falling always held me back from hard moves above a clip, or anything overhanging.

This has all changed and it is the best thing to ever happen to my climbing so far (except discovering this wonderful sport)

It's unreal how much more fun climbing is becoming now that i can really try hard on every move on a climb and not worry about falling excessively. It's boosting my performance massively to which i haven't seen the end of yet...

How did i do it? I gained confidence in my climbing ability to not fall off anything below say, 6a sport or 4b,4c trad. This allowed me to climb fast and efficiently without much thought towards any run-outs or hard moves above a clip (big scary fall potential moments). Mainly because i know the big jug will come, the rest will be there and i will make it up.

As a result, i am spending significantly less time on a route in any 'danger-zone' such as when clipping or when high above a bolt because i am not dwelling on it, chalking up excessively or worrying (much). This is having an exponential effect on my confidence in climbing because i know any danger zone where i am likely to face a big fall can be short lived if i climb fast and efficiently.

If this comes as useful advice for even one person then this post was worth it.

In reply to AlexanderRyanBanks:

Thanks for sharing.

What do you think explains the grade difference between sport 6a and trad 4b?

Is it a fear of falling?

In reply to AlexanderRyanBanks:


Errrr, well, if you actually put the advice in it...


Right, okay, and how did you gain that confidence?? That's the crucial bit that would be useful.

In reply to AlexanderRyanBanks:


What happens at 6b sport and 5a trad?

In reply to AlexanderRyanBanks:

the best thing i do is to do fall practise at the wall on a steep wall preferbly, just climb up 4-5 clips and let go, this is so my body knows what the sensation is like and it can get used to it, the next thing is try something i'm more than likely to fall off and be pumped and you go to push yourself to the point where your fingers are pealing of the holds, no shouting take at all you really got to go for it, this should get your mind in to keep on going the rope will catch you mode, as this is a less voluntary way of letting go you have no control of it its much more scary but vital to control if you want to push yourself.personally i need to remind my body how to deal with irrational fear, so i may need to this maybe once or twice everyweek built into my training session untill the fear has seemed to be under control, then started the process again when i get scared or nevious because i have had a break or done just bouldering this usually happend over the winter and then summer comers i'm scared again, but doing this helps with reminding my body that nothing bad will happen hopefuly, anyway good luch and happy climbing !!!

In reply to Fiend:

You must have missed this paragraph:

In reply to AlexanderRyanBanks:

Ffion Blethyn,

For me, the discontinuity between my comfortable trad (4b/4c) and sport(6a) grade is the way i approach the routes. For the trad route i am thinking about gear placements, rest spots, cruxes and where i need to climb quickly as well as places i can rest and take my time (all to avoid falling yes). On the other hand for the sport 6a i am thinking almost entirely about racing up it in a quick efficient burst, not resting unless really necessary. What both have in common is usually the level of pump i will get, which kind-of relates to my confidence/chance of making it up the route.

Fiend,

By 'gained confidence' i mean making the step to believe i can climb any 6a sport and any 4b,4c trad route there is (which i truly believed was true, but needed to find out). Then when i put it into practice, it worked and so my confidence grew from this.

Blue Straggler,

At 6b sport and 5a trad i don't have as much confidence in getting up it every time, but, knowing that the route may only have one or two 6b/5a sections means i know when then crux is over, i can finish the route no matter what.

Dryngocymru1988,

Excellent advice, i really need to put the work into falling when pushing at my limit, something i sill neglect somewhat and so hesitate when doing... Thanks!

In reply to AlexanderRyanBanks:


What step? And how did you make that step? Physical training? Sport psychology coaching? Gresham Masterclass? Counselling? Drugs? An ephiphany? Divine intervention?

Just saying "I got better" or "I gained confidence" does not provide a practical method for other people to use.

In reply to Fiend:

Have to agree with Fiend, OP is talking about the result, rather than the method surely.

Either that, or just sounds like normal gains in confidence born of experience.

That's fair enough of course, but I'd assumed there'd be something more too?

In reply to Fiend: Hopefully i can answer you clearly here;

Most of my climbing for about 9 months until recently had been indoor bouldering, which i used as strength training, but i've had the strength to easily climb 6a for longer than that, i just haven't psychologically believed i could. This meant that i climbed slowly, worrying about falling off excessively, got pumped quickly and didn't make it up every 6a i tried.

I knew i had the strength to climb 6a easily and that my lack of confidence was holding me back. For the first few 6a's that marked the improvement in my climbing i focused almost purely on exactly how i was going to climb the route, forcefully ignoring any thoughts of fear or doubt. It was hard at first, but each time i though about falling i said to myself, 'stop thinking about falling and climb!'.

Doing this for a few routes saw a change in the way i was climbing, instead of being stop-start, resting lots and hesitating at hard sections it was smoother, faster and more efficient.

As a result i was climbing the 6a's easily, without getting tired at all. This massively increased my confidence.

As i climbed more i found it easier to push any fear and doubt to the back of my mind because i was continually seeing myself at the top of a 6a with ease with this new mentality.

This escalated to the point where i truly believed i could climb any 6a and so far i have not yet been proved wrong ( i will undoubtedly, but sandbags are everywhere and at every grade).

It's not just climbing 6a's that i have become better at, it is climbing on a rope in general. The more i am climbing with more confidence and efficiency the less fear i have because i know any danger zone such as clipping of facing a big fall can be short lived if i just keep moving and not hang around worrying.

I'm happy to answer any more questions, but may not reply as i am going climbing haha!

In reply to AlexanderRyanBanks:

Good luck to you. Unfortunately a number of posters will try and rubbish whatever positive suggestions you put forward. I can only suggest keep leading; whatever grade, indoor or out. I once bouldered all winter and then gibbered on a VS in April. Previously done an E2 the October before! Honest, positive post, enjoy your climbing. Chris