UKC

Top roped a route this evening alone using a shunt. Top rope anchor constructed and both rope ends tied to a sling around a big rock at the base of the crag...

Any tips on setting this system up to minimise fuss over the shunt sliding up the rope cleanly - it seemed to get stuck occasionally and I'd have to tug it up the rope. Was using a thick single rope so I guess a thinner rope would run smoother (less friction)...

I know it isn't recommended for this kind of use but I figure I'm safer shunting than soloing which is what I have been doing recently!

In reply to sea_lene:

I got good advice in this thread.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=593238

Did you weight the dead rope?

In reply to Stevie989:

Thanks - this looks interesting (will have to get my head round it in the cold light of day!)

You don't need a fancy karabiner.
If you get a piece of thin cord (shoelace is fine) make a loop long enough to go over your head an down to the shunt. Tie an overhand knot leaving a small loop which you then place over the clip in loop/bar on the shunt.
Then clip the shunt to your harness as normal.
If you have got the length right, the shunt will always be high enough meaning you will not cross load the karabiner. If you do fall off, the shunt is always above your harness waistbelt and you will just sag gently onto the shunt.

Ive been doing it this way since about 1988, have shunted thousands of routes and never ever had a problem.


I tied it to the ground - should it be tight? As in, is it better to have weight hanging on the rope?
From what I can see immediately I only need to climb on a single strand of 10mm whereas I had it doubled over (hence trouble with friction, I guess)

In reply to sea_lene:
And you instruct others? LOL
There are plenty of threads on here with sage advice and some can be found with your good friend Google

In reply to sea_lene:

I clip my gear bag in with a couple of draws - takes the stretch out the rope.

I usually have the rope doubled as I find it easier to rig for short pitches.

In reply to Stevie989:
Thanks - I'll try that next time with gear bag/rucksack.

In reply to Stevie989:

ditto...works a treat

In reply to sea_lene:


Sorry, but.... you've shunted thousands of routes but you've never thought to weight the rope?

In reply to Jonny2vests:

The whole middle bit of Sea_Lene's second post is a quote from the other thread - he's not answering his own question, even though it sounds like he is.

In reply to sea_lene:

The guru of climbing with a shunt is bill briggs - check his site on here for many posts on the subject.

In reply to sea_lene:

I have always found a chest harness linked to a waist harness or a full body harness with the shunt at chest height allows the rope to run freely and stay in the right position.Having it at waist level can allow the shunt not to lock in the event of a slip,a guy I know went 30 feet down the crag to a sudden stop at the bottom when his shunt didnt lock up.A rucsac tied into the bottom end allows you to pull up enough slack to effect an abseil back down.I always use 2X 8.5 ropes.

In reply to sea_lene:

All I would say is don't be like the selfish muppett/billy nomates
shunting at Cheyne last sunday who on spying his target route from above
chucked his rope over with no regard to people standing below let a lone a call of below. We know most shunters have no friends but please observe basic courtesies if you want to be accepted on the crag in future or have any chance of a positive social interaction with a fellow climber

In reply to Jonny2vests:

What Tom said - wasn't clear, sorry for confusion. In fact,move only ever shunted twice, yesterday and about seven years ago

In reply to sea_lene:

Petzl have this page which may be of benefit http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/product-experience/self-belay-solo-climbing...

In reply to sea_lene:

have a read of this and follow the links

http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/a/11085/The-Best-Progress-Capture-Pulley-or-A...

In reply to sea_lene:


Alternatively, whatever larger cams/nut/hexes you're not using will do the same job

In reply to Tom Last and sea_lene:


I see said the blind man to his deaf dog.

In reply to sea_lene:

I have top rope soloed for several years (every now and then so not as 'active' as I should be)
I have also rope lead soloed single- and multi- pich rotes.

My weapon of choice on top rope solo is petzel micro ascender. I do recommend it over shunt etc. I view this device safer for both user and rope in addition to being marginally better (smaller, lighter) than shunt.

With two ropes I would use microascender as primary safety device and (in your case) shunt (as you have it) as secondary. Personally I have used pruskic / klimheist at a secondary solution (installed so that it cuts in ~1ft / 30cm after primary should cut in - as knot backup dose not run smoothly I usually reel the rope through once I am at fairly good spot - yes shunt / second ascender would be nicer).

I have found out that using only light weight to weight the rope down works for me. As one has to sway left or right from 'straight down' line the rope uses.. heavy weight can be a bugger.

I do have a chest harness at my disposal.. I have actually used only few times. My personal view is that the additional disadvantages out weight the benefits.

In reply to sea_lene:

Weight the ends of the rope, rack or the coiled ends is usually fine.

I've never bothered with a chest harness for shunting, only when using a death modded Grigri but one of those DMM belaymaster biners is useful to stop the karabiner rotating on a shunt.

If you're on overhanging routes you can tension the rope into the base to hold you into the rock but this requires a bit more care as it's easier to get caught on the shunt, knot backup advised.