UKC

So flying to Milan on 3rd if august and plan was val di mello however it's looking wet, backup was orco, also looking a bit wet, anyone have any other suggestions for us, was considering finale ligure but I'm assuming we would bake down there in august unless there is enough north facing crags?

Hi Adam,

Is this your first time to either Mello or Orco or Finale? This time of the year you would be baking everywhere in Italy. Instead... we've had so much rain that we've never seen in centuries... The weather has gone mad. I've never been to Mello (Val Masino), my friends say it would be too hot and in fact yesterday I've climbed in Orco with some friends from Milan.

Now...

In Orco if it rains you haven't got much choice. There are two sheltered sport crags: Bosco and Falesia di Luca (both featured on Oviglia's guidebook). Bosco is a little nicer than Falesia di Luca. Neither is great, I'm afraid, they have chipped holds However, rock will dry quickly when it stops raining. Not everyone knows that the central lines at the Droide above Ceresole, past the tunnel, not only they're the only two trad lines (one useless bolt half way), but they're also dry in the rain. A couple of more extreme sport routes to the left which also looked dry in the rain last Sunday when... it rained. Though I suppose a proper downpour would make no prisoners... Avoid all dihedrals, e.g. Diedro Nanchez , it's been raining quite a bit, they're normally wet in August, this year thell be even wetter.

Just off Orco, you'll find the Piantonetto Valley (look for Rock Paradise, Oviglia's original guidebook to the area). Weather is very changeable, if it rains in one valley, it doesn't mean it's raining in the one next to it. In Piantonetto there's plenty more. The most accessible (walking wise) buttress is Scoglio di Mroz with some really cool classics. If you're looking for alpine adventure and a summit, google Becco di Valsoera. You'll need two days of decent weather for that.

Also parallel to Orco there's Vallone di Sea, an off-the-beaten-track little climbing paradise with a mix of trad, sport and mixed longer lines as well as boulders. They held a climbing meeting last weekend. Hard to find info about this area, if you do end up there, drop me a line, happy to help.

If cragging is your thing, also consider going to Cadarese and the Ossola area in general all the way into Switzerland (Gondo area). The central sector of Cadarese (lines around Edera) are normally dry in the rain. If it gets too hot, Cadarese may be out of the question - again.... it should be out of the question - you may want to venture up to Yosesigo (north facing, ~40 mins walk) aka Full Metal Jacket. More info here: http://ossolaclimbing.org/node/333

Finally, if the weather changes abruptly and the Italian summer hits the country... go as high as you can

Good luck!

Ciao!

Nic

PS: I hope someone will give you some beta on Mello too.
PS2: Forgot to say. Don't go to Finale. Not in August. Not for climbing. It's wrong regardless the weather. Trust me

In reply to Nicola Ciancaglini:

Thank you very much for that very detailed response, I think we have decided on orco as it is looking cooler then mello and with less rain, the forecast is saying should be pretty much dry from Wednesday onwards, and prior to this only the odd shower, but if it is as wet as you say it is we will just have to wait and see what is dry and what is not, thanks again for the response.

In reply to Adam Moroz:

Right, then some more beta on your way based on the questions I normally get asked when I bump into foreigners in Orco...

1) eating (sleeping), Fonti Minerali in Ceresole, they speak English, they have excellent food (pizza or whatever) you can sleep in dorms (10+ beds per room) if needs be for €15 pppn unless they've changed rates for high season. Free wi-fi.

2) camping. La Peschera facing the Sergent. Climbers campsite.

3) shops. Not much to be honest. Some shops near Hotel Meuble Sport in Ceresole.

4) cash. Italy is a cash country I'm afraid. Don't assume you can pay by card in places... (e.g. Le Fonti don't take cards). The only cash machine I'm aware of is in Ceresole's Post Office (opposite Hotel Sport)

5) climbing shop. In Rivarolo, sort of on your way to Orco, you'll find Mountain Sicks. It's the nearest well stocked shop I know.

6) guidebooks. In Ceresole you may find newsagents that sell Oviglia's latest guidebook to Orco. That's about it.

7) weather forecast. 3bmeteo.it, ilmeteo.it, meteo.it

8) if it's hot (it could well happen). Disertore (in the morning), Parete delle Ombre (pretty much any time of the day), Elisir d'Incastro and Avventuriero (single pitch routes on Sergent), Droide (base is in the shade), Dado (base in the shade). Late afternoons are ok anywhere.

9) rest day from climbing. Lake is pretty nice. There's even a little crag just by the lake... If you keep driving up the valley you'll most certainly encounter groups of ibexes running about and tourists taking pictures... shed loads of hiking trails...

10) safety. the only place where historically there have been cars being broken into is Caporal's car park. Beware.

11) gear: though Orco is known as Italy's Yosemite... you won't need much. Routes are never too long. A rack and a half (from small blue to big grey, with some doubles...) and a set of wires will get you up anything. I've only ever used size 5 and 6 on Fessura della Disperazione.

Enjoy!

Nic