UKC

Re-proofing Ventile

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 Toerag 01 Aug 2014

So, I have a secondhand ventile smock bought off ebay to see what it's like and had it leak on the shoulders last week. It needs a wash, so the question is, should I give it a dose of nikwax cottonproof or something else or not bother?
Post edited at 13:25
In reply to Toerag:

I would give it a good wash*: detergent first, then a soap wash and couple of rinses, and then a wash-in proofer.

You might even consider giving it a dry clean to remove any existing proofer, a bit like Paramo do when 'refreshing' the proofing; strip all the crap off and start from scratch.

Check the care label, of course...

And check that there isn't some obvious mechanical damage to the fabric or seams on the shoulder that might be responsible for the leak.

* if only because you've bought it off some potentially skanky person on eBay...
mickeyluv 01 Aug 2014
In reply to Toerag:

I thought you weren't supposed to proof ventile as the fabric absorbing water and swelling is what seals it?
 Siward 01 Aug 2014
In reply to mickeyluv:

Ditto. Ventile was invented before the advent of fancy waterproofers.
Mind you, single layer ventile isn't supposed to be properly waterproof.
OP Toerag 02 Aug 2014
In reply to Toerag:

Should've had a google - www.ventile.co.uk has this:-
CLEANING - Ventile can be either dry-cleaned as detailed below* or hand washed using Grangers 30 Degree Cleaner as detailed on the Grangers website www.grangers.co.uk.

*Professional dry-cleaning in: perchloroethylene, hydrocarbons. Mild cleaning process with stringent limitation of added humidity and/or mechanical action and/or temperature. Commercial stain removers on a solvent base may be used with some restrictions. A trail on a concealed part of the article is advisable beforehand.


REPROOFING - Your VentileĀ® garment may eventually require a reproof, we recommend using either Grangers XT Spray or Grangers 30 Degree Performance Proofer.
In reply to mickeyluv:

> I thought you weren't supposed to proof ventile as the fabric absorbing water and swelling is what seals it?

That's an arguable point.

As for the historical development of Ventile, well, originally, there were two forms; bleached and unbleached. The bleaching process removes the natural cotton oil from the cloth, and, as a result, it wets out almost immediately. This bleached version was used to make lifejackets stuffed with kapok, and the reason the wetting was wanted was to form a barrier to oil penetration, which otherwise saturated the kapok, rendering the lifejacket useless for sailors fleeing ships sunk by shelling or torpedoes.

The unbleached version was used to make immersion suits, using the natural water repellence to stop the suit wetting out. One might argue that an immersion suit might also have to deal with oil, but pilots tried to parachute to safety, and, if their plane landed on the sea without them being killed, the chances were that it hadn't broken up, so the oil spillage would be minimal.

That's the story told by Don Robertson, formerly of the Defence Clothing & Textiles Agency, in his DofE book 'Workshop'. Since his job was researching fabrics and developing clothing for the UK military, I'm hoping he knows what he's talking about. And his view is that Ventile doesn't work as a waterproof by wetting out and swelling, but by being a natural microporous fabric, due to the very close weave using long-staple cotton threads. He also says that a Ventile suit that has genuinely wetted out, causing the fibres to swell is very stiff, and impractical as a garment.

And this need for water-repellent treatment for Ventile waterproofs is backed up by Toerag's quote from the manufacturers.

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