UKC

fontainebleau in a few weeks

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 timmyhobby 02 Aug 2014
off to font in 3 weeks with 3 friends, i climb up to 7a when i climbing well but probably 6s on this trip, one of my friends climbs a couple of grades lower than me and the other 2 are completely new to climbing, any suggestions of where to go? 2 of us have been 2 times before and some of the places we went to were elefont, 95.2, 91.1, bas cuvier (which i didn't like much) franchard isatis (i think!) and the place with the dog rock. it would be good to go somewhere that has good easy circuits that are not to high and in nice settings and would be nice to go to places that are new to us all.
 Enty 02 Aug 2014
In reply to timmyhobby:

I was there last week. I bought the Jingo Wobbly Fun Bloc guide which is designed specifically for groups with mixed abilities.

IT highlights the best best places with a variation of grades and different circuits.

I thought Canche aux Merciers was good and Rocher Sabots with stuff from kids problems right up to some cracking reds and blues.

E
OP timmyhobby 02 Aug 2014
In reply to Enty:
i have the purple guide book which has a similar lay out to the jingo wobely but different routes, ill look into those places as i haven't herd of them
Post edited at 10:24
 Offwidth 02 Aug 2014
In reply to timmyhobby:

Either guide is fine. Watch things with your beginner mates some yellow fun 3 slabs can have UK 5c tech moves and there is the odd highball VS 4b... anything you suggest, climb first. Diplodocus is my favourite for a good grade mix of neighbouring lowball problems although the centrepiece boulder is high.
In reply to timmyhobby:

Where ever you go in font there is literally loads to go at at all grades, it will blow your mind!
In reply to timmyhobby:

+1 for La Canche aux Merciers and Le Diplodocus. I think you'll find the grade ranges there spot on.

Rocher Canon is also very good.
 Trangia 03 Aug 2014
In reply to timmyhobby:

Dame Juanne has a nice yellow circuit, but as others have said beware of some of the moves. Just because they are yellow doesn't mean they are a soft touch. There are moves in these circuits which certainly concentrate the mind and require commitment over not overfriendly landings.

You will be going at the hottest time of the year and may find it too hot to climb during the day. Early morning is probably best.

You mention the dog Rock (Cul de Cien). Be aware that climbing on it is now banned because the base is fractured.
OP timmyhobby 03 Aug 2014
In reply to timmyhobby:

great, thanks for all your help
 Offwidth 03 Aug 2014
In reply to Trangia:

Damme Juoanne is too highball for me to recommend it. The mauve circuit is even worse ....the only circuit Moff and I ever backed off half way (old skool alpine style) down to mental strain. The mauve off the block onto the hanging wall must be E1 5a and it eats my confidence to be onsight with no runners on stuff like that.

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