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Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=593572
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows is the bible for training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Psyche video of the week - http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/this-looks-like-the-hardest-single-fing...
TomPR on the Gondo Crack project - good whipper!
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
hms – having a master plan is good, so long as you have the discipline to stick to it! I always get distracted by going to the crag over the summer and inevitably get weaker as a result of skipping any focused training. The lamppost training sounds novel…
Nick Russell – Congratulations on completing the Staffs Nose. Nice little blog write up too.
AJM – “Have to come back for Wendenstock next year... any takers? ” Silbergeier? Congratulations on the job offer BTW. By the sounds of things you’ll have plenty of visitors!
Tubb93 – sweaty grit bouldering – have fun in Font for more sweaty bouldering!
Exile – lots of walking and snotty man-flu. Better this week?
IainRUK – Clocking up some big miles again this week. All “money in the bank” for marathon ambitions
grubes – any chance the early fatigue at the wall was dehydration linked?
Dandan82 – great to hear you’re confident in the finger again. Go forth and crush the Vulcan! (once the puppy is allowed out the house)
Luke Owens - I’ve experienced the tight forearm syndrome after 3days of Euro-lime beasting and need a couple of days rest/light climbing to recover. I could see how it could take longer to recover if you didn’t have a high vascularity as someone who hasn’t climbed for as many years. Swerve the redpoint blues for a few weeks and get better at on-sghting…
Ally Smith Light climbing week and growing fat legs from getting competitive on Strava. Keys to new house on Monday
mattrm – Solid contribution to UKC DIY Club and foot on the ladder of the HVS-E2 pyramid.
Tyler – Good volume of bouldering amongst the work commitments. Elbows behaving better this week? Like you, mine flare up and weirdly, resting seems to be one of the things that bring it back on.
Sankey – welcome back. The alpine weather gods haven’t been kind this year. Time to think through some goals to re-focus your training?
biscuit – ticked the “world's hardest V4” – I thought that title belonged to La Marie Rose at Font, which even Ondra failed to on-sight?
stevemarkperry – bring on the mini-adventures. Make sure you focus your time on doing said things, not writing a blog about them! (says the lapsed blogger)
Quiddity – fleeting guest appearance to tempt people to visit a massive Dorset cave
Humperdink – more fast paced running. Would a sub 90min half be on the cards?
Just Tintin – out almost every day and consistently ticking above last years level – great when you look back and can measure progress like this. Try this for tan lines though… http://xmasepic.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/tan_line.jpg
Post edited at 08:48
In reply to Ally Smith:
Cheers, Ally. I'd love to do a bike-bivvy as well. I've been quizzing a friend who's done a few for some tips! Stats coming later on today when I know what the day entailed. Lookin' sunny!
Cheers, Ally. I'd love to do a bike-bivvy as well. I've been quizzing a friend who's done a few for some tips! Stats coming later on today when I know what the day entailed. Lookin' sunny!
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks for the write up. As I'm trying to do stuff 5 times a week, I'm just hoping that as long as I concentrate on Kaly related training on 3 of them then I can do more what I want on the other couple. Fingers crossed!
m cycle commute. UCR routes, 6a 6a+ 6b / 6c 6c 6c / 7a+ 6b+ / 6c+ 6b 6b / 6c 6b+ 6b. Getting a pump going by doing hardish stuff back-to-back. The 7a+ was new, nails & not clean!
t cycle commute. TCA to have another go at the accumulator boulder problems. Really pleased - got 2 more tops and 3 more bonus holds. A pretty full-on session, was knackered at the end, with v sore tips as umpteen of the problems had vicious little crimpers. 30 pull-ups when I got home.
w cycle commute, then was pummled by Nina in the evening.
t wyndcliff quarry (short, mainly sport). Fell off an E3, didn't get a decent go on a 7a+ as rain showers stopped play. Fingerboard session at home - 2 iterations
f ucr circuits - 11, starting easy, the doing a hard one then an easy straight away & recovering on the jugs.
s rest
s Back to Wyndcliff Quarry to target the 7a+ in lovely sunshine. A thin technical route with tiny hands and feet. 3 TR goes to get the seq & clipping nailed, then lead it clean 1st attempt.
Thanks for the write up. As I'm trying to do stuff 5 times a week, I'm just hoping that as long as I concentrate on Kaly related training on 3 of them then I can do more what I want on the other couple. Fingers crossed!
m cycle commute. UCR routes, 6a 6a+ 6b / 6c 6c 6c / 7a+ 6b+ / 6c+ 6b 6b / 6c 6b+ 6b. Getting a pump going by doing hardish stuff back-to-back. The 7a+ was new, nails & not clean!
t cycle commute. TCA to have another go at the accumulator boulder problems. Really pleased - got 2 more tops and 3 more bonus holds. A pretty full-on session, was knackered at the end, with v sore tips as umpteen of the problems had vicious little crimpers. 30 pull-ups when I got home.
w cycle commute, then was pummled by Nina in the evening.
t wyndcliff quarry (short, mainly sport). Fell off an E3, didn't get a decent go on a 7a+ as rain showers stopped play. Fingerboard session at home - 2 iterations
f ucr circuits - 11, starting easy, the doing a hard one then an easy straight away & recovering on the jugs.
s rest
s Back to Wyndcliff Quarry to target the 7a+ in lovely sunshine. A thin technical route with tiny hands and feet. 3 TR goes to get the seq & clipping nailed, then lead it clean 1st attempt.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Gutted, didn't make it into the stats - clearly pays to reply promptly...
This week much the same as last: two trail runs. Need to build up steadily though.
Looking forward to the move when I can get back on the wall and outside. Will post some goals then.
Gutted, didn't make it into the stats - clearly pays to reply promptly...
This week much the same as last: two trail runs. Need to build up steadily though.
Looking forward to the move when I can get back on the wall and outside. Will post some goals then.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks Ally, congrats on the house. I guess the 'getting competitive on Strava' is on your bike? Have you come across this?
http://labs.strava.com/heatmap/#6/-120.90000/38.36000/blue/bike
Good for finding decent new running/cycling routes (especially in an unfamiliar area).
M - Swimming, 1.9km ('fun' end-of-season session)
T - Cheddar. Got on House Burning Down, 7b+. Should have got it 2nd go, but my concentration lapsed and I fell from last hard move. Went on the next attempt after a decent rest.
W - Rest.
T - 6km run, core
F - TCA, core
S - Nothing, travelling to Seattle. Walked about 9 miles around the city on arriving.
S - 16km run, easy pace (further than I expected - didn't quite get the scale right when planning a route).
Another encouraging performance at Cheddar, I think I'm getting quite familiar with the style there. I think "Sing a Mean Toon Kid" and "Circus, Circus" are next on the list. The latter is meant to be top end 7c so should push me a bit.
2014 goals
Sport: 8a. Best RP: 7c (2 of these now)
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Attempted: 9, clean onsight: 1 (+3 others I feel I've 'succeeded' on, one way or another)
Trad: Staffs NIAD. Hahaha, had a go. Failed due to a navigation error.
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 283/416km down.
Swimming: Enter some competitions, get some 'benchmark' times. 58.69 100fr*, 26.98 (26.3*) 50 fr, 1:12.34 100 bk, 31.12 50 fly*, 1:09.58 100 IM
*Relay splits
Short-term goals
Climb in California this weekend?
Get some sport mileage in 7b-7c range, find something I like in 7c+-8a+ range.
Another 7b+ in an evening
Plan/train for trips in September: 1 week in Lundy, 2 weeks in North East US.
Still feel like more crimp strength required, but no time to train effectively. If I fit in a few fingerboard/bouldering sessions, it's better than nothing.
Devise training plan to implement in October.
Maybe I'll stick to it for more than a couple of weeks this time
> Nick Russell – Congratulations on completing the Staffs Nose. Nice little blog write up too.
Thanks Ally, congrats on the house. I guess the 'getting competitive on Strava' is on your bike? Have you come across this?
http://labs.strava.com/heatmap/#6/-120.90000/38.36000/blue/bike
Good for finding decent new running/cycling routes (especially in an unfamiliar area).
M - Swimming, 1.9km ('fun' end-of-season session)
T - Cheddar. Got on House Burning Down, 7b+. Should have got it 2nd go, but my concentration lapsed and I fell from last hard move. Went on the next attempt after a decent rest.
W - Rest.
T - 6km run, core
F - TCA, core
S - Nothing, travelling to Seattle. Walked about 9 miles around the city on arriving.
S - 16km run, easy pace (further than I expected - didn't quite get the scale right when planning a route).
Another encouraging performance at Cheddar, I think I'm getting quite familiar with the style there. I think "Sing a Mean Toon Kid" and "Circus, Circus" are next on the list. The latter is meant to be top end 7c so should push me a bit.
2014 goals
Sport: 8a. Best RP: 7c (2 of these now)
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Attempted: 9, clean onsight: 1 (+3 others I feel I've 'succeeded' on, one way or another)
Trad: Staffs NIAD. Hahaha, had a go. Failed due to a navigation error.
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 283/416km down.
Swimming: Enter some competitions, get some 'benchmark' times. 58.69 100fr*, 26.98 (26.3*) 50 fr, 1:12.34 100 bk, 31.12 50 fly*, 1:09.58 100 IM
*Relay splits
Short-term goals
Another 7b+ in an evening
Still feel like more crimp strength required, but no time to train effectively. If I fit in a few fingerboard/bouldering sessions, it's better than nothing.
Maybe I'll stick to it for more than a couple of weeks this time
In reply to Ally Smith:
Only when they move Silbergeier to Wendenstock you geographically illiterate pillock
Its on Ratikon. You can try that if you want. 8b+, about 7c/+ obl I think? I'll do the jumaring and belaying in return for a role swap on something else. The nearest I'll get to it might be the route next door, Hannibals Alptraum, which is "only" 7c, 7b obl. And even that is at the very optimistic end of my BHAG list on vert grey limestone! But is, apparently, "a fantastic neoclassic of the alps".....
The route on the other side, incidentally, is 8b, contains some 30m or more pitches (ok, at only like 7c-8a, the crux pitch is only about 20 or so) and has an equipment list of no nuts, no cams, and 6 quickdraws. 6!!!
I saw an article a while ago about the "alpine triple crown" or something, which was Yeah Man on Gastlosen, Silbergeier on Ratikon and Zahir on Wendenstock - 3 big multipitch 8b+a on 3 big ass bits of cliff. One hell of a triple. If I could find a punter version.......
I certainly hope so. First task when we get home is obviously going to be to resume brewing to fuel this!
> AJM – “Have to come back for Wendenstock next year... any takers? ” Silbergeier?
Only when they move Silbergeier to Wendenstock you geographically illiterate pillock
Its on Ratikon. You can try that if you want. 8b+, about 7c/+ obl I think? I'll do the jumaring and belaying in return for a role swap on something else. The nearest I'll get to it might be the route next door, Hannibals Alptraum, which is "only" 7c, 7b obl. And even that is at the very optimistic end of my BHAG list on vert grey limestone! But is, apparently, "a fantastic neoclassic of the alps".....
The route on the other side, incidentally, is 8b, contains some 30m or more pitches (ok, at only like 7c-8a, the crux pitch is only about 20 or so) and has an equipment list of no nuts, no cams, and 6 quickdraws. 6!!!
I saw an article a while ago about the "alpine triple crown" or something, which was Yeah Man on Gastlosen, Silbergeier on Ratikon and Zahir on Wendenstock - 3 big multipitch 8b+a on 3 big ass bits of cliff. One hell of a triple. If I could find a punter version.......
> Congratulations on the job offer BTW. By the sounds of things you’ll have plenty of visitors!
I certainly hope so. First task when we get home is obviously going to be to resume brewing to fuel this!
In reply to Nick Russell:
I doubt you've actually met him, but if you're short of people for Circus Circus then chubbard of these forums would probably be interested in getting on it, has the beta, and was my regular cheddar partner for years, for what value that recommendation has
It's not too bad actually, though.
- There's probably a stuck wire still above the peg, and the rope is out of the way best if you just use that rather than the peg.
- And if you are only working the hard bit, its easiest to strip by going down to the last staple and lowering from that rather than topping out and having to abseil for the gear. The trad top is easy and you can stash gear (whilst putting the clips in) at the start of the easy bit which you can either grab before you start to head back downwards or take and use depending on your progress....
I doubt you've actually met him, but if you're short of people for Circus Circus then chubbard of these forums would probably be interested in getting on it, has the beta, and was my regular cheddar partner for years, for what value that recommendation has
It's not too bad actually, though.
- There's probably a stuck wire still above the peg, and the rope is out of the way best if you just use that rather than the peg.
- And if you are only working the hard bit, its easiest to strip by going down to the last staple and lowering from that rather than topping out and having to abseil for the gear. The trad top is easy and you can stash gear (whilst putting the clips in) at the start of the easy bit which you can either grab before you start to head back downwards or take and use depending on your progress....
In reply to Ally Smith:
Possibly I never thought of that
Goal:
Back up to 7a
7a in chorro
lose weight
get core strength and body tension back
M: Rest
T: Gym. Bike and running machine. Some weights all pushing.
W: Rest. drove to glasgow and back for work
T: swimming. 30mins around 600m in blocks of 100m
F: Rest
S: Depot. 2hours. Again tired quite quickly. feeling stronger and core was okayish once I was warm body tension is still lacking
S: swimming 30 mins around 800m in blocks of 100m
I had forgotten how much I enjoy swimming
I have booked some adult swimming lessons to try and get better at it as I have had about a 20 year gap since I last swam lengths.
I also got the bike out on Thursday. I rode it about 1 mile to the bike shop for a service and repair hopefully get in a 10miler this week once its working again.
I weighed myself this morning and came in a 90.1kg my target is 76kg (just under 12 stone) which is appalling.
> grubes – any chance the early fatigue at the wall was dehydration linked?
Cheers for doing fit club.Possibly I never thought of that
Goal:
Back up to 7a
7a in chorro
lose weight
get core strength and body tension back
M: Rest
T: Gym. Bike and running machine. Some weights all pushing.
W: Rest. drove to glasgow and back for work
T: swimming. 30mins around 600m in blocks of 100m
F: Rest
S: Depot. 2hours. Again tired quite quickly. feeling stronger and core was okayish once I was warm body tension is still lacking
S: swimming 30 mins around 800m in blocks of 100m
I had forgotten how much I enjoy swimming
I have booked some adult swimming lessons to try and get better at it as I have had about a 20 year gap since I last swam lengths.
I also got the bike out on Thursday. I rode it about 1 mile to the bike shop for a service and repair hopefully get in a 10miler this week once its working again.
I weighed myself this morning and came in a 90.1kg my target is 76kg (just under 12 stone) which is appalling.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks Ally,
I didn't get to climb outside this weekend, the weather conspired against me as I only had a very small window of free time to potentially get out, but more recovery time is always a good thing.
Not a great week for training for one reason and another (time constraints mostly) and this week I find myself lacking in transport so it limits what I can do even more so, so a couple of enforced semi rest weeks it seems.
I bouldered indoor on Tuesday, good feedback from the fingers with no complaints, I spent a lot of time working the same hard v6 from last week, made some progress, just need to link it all up.
The following few days my elbows felt really delicate, not painful but just, kind of worn out. I didn't do anything to push them and see what happened but it's a bit disappointing to get what seemed like quite a lot of damage after one reasonable intensity bouldering session. I thought I was past that level of elbow issue with all the stretching and careful warming up that I now do. Damn.
M: Chest; Dumbell press, machine press, flat flys
T: Boulder; v0-v6, 200 move circuit
W:
T:
FIY club
S:Puppy club
SIY and Puppy club
I need to get out of all these damn extra clubs!
Really looking forward to the puppy getting a little older so we can take her to the crag and also looking forward to getting the majority of the DIY done on the house/garden so I can go back to a consistent twice a week climbing pattern. I know i'm coming back from an injury (again) but a v6 should be a flash, not a 2+ session project...
STG: Sign of the Vulcan 7b+
MTG (2014): Redpoint 8a (probably Fighting Torque)
LTG: Strong shoulder, healthy elbows, vespasian 8b
Thanks Ally,
I didn't get to climb outside this weekend, the weather conspired against me as I only had a very small window of free time to potentially get out, but more recovery time is always a good thing.
Not a great week for training for one reason and another (time constraints mostly) and this week I find myself lacking in transport so it limits what I can do even more so, so a couple of enforced semi rest weeks it seems.
I bouldered indoor on Tuesday, good feedback from the fingers with no complaints, I spent a lot of time working the same hard v6 from last week, made some progress, just need to link it all up.
The following few days my elbows felt really delicate, not painful but just, kind of worn out. I didn't do anything to push them and see what happened but it's a bit disappointing to get what seemed like quite a lot of damage after one reasonable intensity bouldering session. I thought I was past that level of elbow issue with all the stretching and careful warming up that I now do. Damn.
M: Chest; Dumbell press, machine press, flat flys
T: Boulder; v0-v6, 200 move circuit
W:
T:
FIY club
S:Puppy club
SIY and Puppy club
I need to get out of all these damn extra clubs!
Really looking forward to the puppy getting a little older so we can take her to the crag and also looking forward to getting the majority of the DIY done on the house/garden so I can go back to a consistent twice a week climbing pattern. I know i'm coming back from an injury (again) but a v6 should be a flash, not a 2+ session project...
STG: Sign of the Vulcan 7b+
MTG (2014): Redpoint 8a (probably Fighting Torque)
LTG: Strong shoulder, healthy elbows, vespasian 8b
In reply to Si Cox:
Oops - sorry about that - i glossed over the remaining posts thinking they were all Blackers Hole related.
Derby should be a good location for all things Peak related.
Oops - sorry about that - i glossed over the remaining posts thinking they were all Blackers Hole related.
Derby should be a good location for all things Peak related.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Bit of a good week for me
However, I’m coming to the disheartening conclusion that I need to much stronger on the rat-crimp and probably a full 3kg lighter to have a chance on 8c this year.
IainRUK & Humperdink as resident whippet runners – any advice on shedding weight – specifically leg mass? I’ve barely got any body-fat left to loose.
LTG (End 2014):
- Healthy shoulders & elbows – keep following the physio
- Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime - as much about being a skinny wretch as it is having strong digits it seems
- Do “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
MTG (Summer/Autumn 2014):
- Finalise house purchase and build some home training facilities.
- On-sight 8a in Kalymnos
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham.
- True North, Kilnsey.
- Waddage, Tor
- Maintain trad resurgence and try and on-sight an E6?
- Ramp up an-cap and aero-cap aiming for a peak in the autumn; gentle finger-boarding to re-hab ring finger.
- Aim for fighting weight of 74kg and 6.6% BF – surprise result to find myself at 73.9kg and 6.5% BF this morning. 2 days hard work flexing at Kilnsey has done me good!
STG (The next 2 weeks)(expanded time frame)
- Keep on top of injury niggles – physio on shoulder & back; finger icing
- Do some aero-cap
- Do some fingerboarding
- Bolt & clean the pockets to edges project
- Re-bolt & repair Ecstasy at Kilnsey (Luke – can I have the charger for the drill you loaned me, please?)
- Do the Dinbren link-up project
- Get on Mecca and see what it’s like
Last week:
M - Cheedale Cornice. Clarion Call warm-up, K3 dog (new knee beta), K3 in two, K3 redpoint Roof Warrior dog at dusk.
T - Dinbren. Dogging 8b project. Took some whippers and can’t remember set-up for top crux.
W - Rest. Sub hour lap of ‘degla on FS. Strava says I’m 10th fastest on the black/red combo I rode, which must be bullshit as I felt knackered and copped out of doing the entire black. Ate too many doughnuts when I got home
T - Cheedale Cornice. Clarion Call warm-up, Roof Warrior dog, Roof Warrior RP (3rd RP, at dusk – tiny beta change on the rock over made all the difference)
F - Rest – icing shoulder & finger. Knackered. Early night.
S - Kilnsey – should have been $hitty and raining, but the crag held out well. Very inspiring scene – watched Tim do Progress and Matt crushed Full Tilt and Dead Calm with ease. Me? Urgent Action 2nd RP. (1st ended at long move). Good flash go, followed by poor RP attempt on The Thumb. Pub grub & couple pints and hence very late home.
S - Back to Kilnsey. Felt sore warming up. RP’d The Thumb for my 4th >f8a in a week Dogged True North. Crux felt hard again, and shoulder felt sore on final lock-off. Need some time finger boarding and climbing on a 30degree board.
Needless to say I feel bolx’d this morning; DOMS of doom!
Bit of a good week for me
However, I’m coming to the disheartening conclusion that I need to much stronger on the rat-crimp and probably a full 3kg lighter to have a chance on 8c this year.
IainRUK & Humperdink as resident whippet runners – any advice on shedding weight – specifically leg mass? I’ve barely got any body-fat left to loose.
LTG (End 2014):
- Healthy shoulders & elbows – keep following the physio
- Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime - as much about being a skinny wretch as it is having strong digits it seems
- Do “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
MTG (Summer/Autumn 2014):
- Finalise house purchase and build some home training facilities.
- On-sight 8a in Kalymnos
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham.
- True North, Kilnsey.
- Waddage, Tor
- Maintain trad resurgence and try and on-sight an E6?
- Ramp up an-cap and aero-cap aiming for a peak in the autumn; gentle finger-boarding to re-hab ring finger.
- Aim for fighting weight of 74kg and 6.6% BF – surprise result to find myself at 73.9kg and 6.5% BF this morning. 2 days hard work flexing at Kilnsey has done me good!
STG (The next 2 weeks)(expanded time frame)
- Keep on top of injury niggles – physio on shoulder & back; finger icing
- Do some aero-cap
- Do some fingerboarding
- Bolt & clean the pockets to edges project
- Re-bolt & repair Ecstasy at Kilnsey (Luke – can I have the charger for the drill you loaned me, please?)
- Do the Dinbren link-up project
- Get on Mecca and see what it’s like
Last week:
M - Cheedale Cornice. Clarion Call warm-up, K3 dog (new knee beta), K3 in two, K3 redpoint Roof Warrior dog at dusk.
T - Dinbren. Dogging 8b project. Took some whippers and can’t remember set-up for top crux.
W - Rest. Sub hour lap of ‘degla on FS. Strava says I’m 10th fastest on the black/red combo I rode, which must be bullshit as I felt knackered and copped out of doing the entire black. Ate too many doughnuts when I got home
T - Cheedale Cornice. Clarion Call warm-up, Roof Warrior dog, Roof Warrior RP (3rd RP, at dusk – tiny beta change on the rock over made all the difference)
F - Rest – icing shoulder & finger. Knackered. Early night.
S - Kilnsey – should have been $hitty and raining, but the crag held out well. Very inspiring scene – watched Tim do Progress and Matt crushed Full Tilt and Dead Calm with ease. Me? Urgent Action 2nd RP. (1st ended at long move). Good flash go, followed by poor RP attempt on The Thumb. Pub grub & couple pints and hence very late home.
S - Back to Kilnsey. Felt sore warming up. RP’d The Thumb for my 4th >f8a in a week Dogged True North. Crux felt hard again, and shoulder felt sore on final lock-off. Need some time finger boarding and climbing on a 30degree board.
Needless to say I feel bolx’d this morning; DOMS of doom!
Post edited at 11:56
In reply to AJM:
Meh! It's all the same scary grey & vert alpine limestone.
I think a f8a multi-pitch would be a good BHAG for me. Come across any inspiring ones on your travels?
> Only when they move Silbergeier to Wendenstock you geographically illiterate pillock
Meh! It's all the same scary grey & vert alpine limestone.
I think a f8a multi-pitch would be a good BHAG for me. Come across any inspiring ones on your travels?
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks Ally.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - HVS (1/10), E1 (0/6), E2 (0/1) 11st 10lbs weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 2lbs (2lbs loss)
M - F
S - 5 hours moving bricks and taking gravel to the tip
S - Trad @ Lewes castle
I'm beginning to wonder if I'm over trained/seriously needing a couple of weeks of complete rest. As long as I'm not doing anything much, I'm fine. The moment I'm doing more than a little bit of work/training/climbing, I get tired really quickly. Even if I have a lazy week then do a weekends worth of work I quickly run out of steam.
Also the shoulder injury definitely needs resting. It was painful on a severe warm up yesterday. The VS was sort of ok as I was nicely warmed up then. I'm feeling battered today. I need to work out a shoulder rehab routine. The pain is mainly around the bottom of the shoulder blade, so I'm not sure it's a standard climbing injury. I suspect it's more all the lifting and carrying I've been doing recently.
Thanks Ally.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - HVS (1/10), E1 (0/6), E2 (0/1) 11st 10lbs weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 2lbs (2lbs loss)
M - F
S - 5 hours moving bricks and taking gravel to the tip
S - Trad @ Lewes castle
I'm beginning to wonder if I'm over trained/seriously needing a couple of weeks of complete rest. As long as I'm not doing anything much, I'm fine. The moment I'm doing more than a little bit of work/training/climbing, I get tired really quickly. Even if I have a lazy week then do a weekends worth of work I quickly run out of steam.
Also the shoulder injury definitely needs resting. It was painful on a severe warm up yesterday. The VS was sort of ok as I was nicely warmed up then. I'm feeling battered today. I need to work out a shoulder rehab routine. The pain is mainly around the bottom of the shoulder blade, so I'm not sure it's a standard climbing injury. I suspect it's more all the lifting and carrying I've been doing recently.
In reply to Ally Smith:
any plans on going all out on a UK 8c? or saving your self for fish eye when the temps drop?
> However, I’m coming to the disheartening conclusion that I need to much stronger on the rat-crimp and probably a full 3kg lighter to have a chance on 8c this year.
any plans on going all out on a UK 8c? or saving your self for fish eye when the temps drop?
In reply to Dandan:
Big Hairy Audacious Goal. i.e. me climbing Silbergier or 1938 route on the Eiger.
I could see Ally doing Silbergier tho.
Big Hairy Audacious Goal. i.e. me climbing Silbergier or 1938 route on the Eiger.
I could see Ally doing Silbergier tho.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks Ally – really impressive week for you! I will attempt to backselfie in order to contest the tanline epic… Bit of a travelling week this week, but really happy with 6b onsight and setting a new trampolining record while entertaining a 3- and 6-year old. Also signed up for the running leg of a triathlon relay in a couple of weeks.
M – Monbrun sport up to 6b onsight
T – travel and Font recce. La Mousardiere is a horrible campsite!
W – Sea swimming and travel.
T – Rest
F – Rest
S – Dog walk
Lead South Molton up to 6b+ onsight and 7A+ dog.
1001 back-to-back trampoline seat drops. 2 days after I have found so many muscles I never knew I had…
S – travel
Thanks Ally – really impressive week for you! I will attempt to backselfie in order to contest the tanline epic… Bit of a travelling week this week, but really happy with 6b onsight and setting a new trampolining record while entertaining a 3- and 6-year old. Also signed up for the running leg of a triathlon relay in a couple of weeks.
M – Monbrun sport up to 6b onsight
T – travel and Font recce. La Mousardiere is a horrible campsite!
W – Sea swimming and travel.
T – Rest
F – Rest
S – Dog walk
Lead South Molton up to 6b+ onsight and 7A+ dog.
1001 back-to-back trampoline seat drops. 2 days after I have found so many muscles I never knew I had…
S – travel
Post edited at 13:27
In reply to grubes:
I'll keep plugging away with True North and see if i make a breakthrough, but i'm thinking 2015 is more realistic.
I need to try Mecca soon, as it'll be my "local" soon - with the obvious extension being a soft intro to 8c.
Might end up back on Fish Eye at New Year if my partner from earlier in the year doesn't do it in November
I'll keep plugging away with True North and see if i make a breakthrough, but i'm thinking 2015 is more realistic.
I need to try Mecca soon, as it'll be my "local" soon - with the obvious extension being a soft intro to 8c.
Might end up back on Fish Eye at New Year if my partner from earlier in the year doesn't do it in November
In reply to Ally Smith:
Cheers Ally, tbh its about trying to lower my 10k this autumn before cross country season starts again in earnest. I am tempted to try a half (well I put it as a goal) but it scares me trying to run that distance fast, never mind IainRUK with his ultra's! However, all things being equal I "should" be able to run sub 70 - but then that's like saying: "I should be able to redpoint 8a" it has to be backed up with action!
M: pm - 8M steady in 51:27
Tu: lunchtime - 4/5M easy in 31:40
W: 16mins easy plus strides 2/3M
Th: Local Road relays event - 5 x 3000m leg. I was last leg and we were leading by over a minute on 4th leg when the event was cancelled due to a runner having a cardiac arrest. Fortunately he recovered. Managed an 8:15 flat out effort around almost all of the course so reckoned I'd have run about 8:40 for the whole thing. Sometimes however, there is more to life than running (or even climbing!). 6/7M total
F: 6/7M steady in 43:04
Sa: Road Session: 5,4,3,2,1min off half rep recoveries then 5min jog then 15min flat out. Its was hard but felt quite strong so pleased. 11M total
Su: 80mins started easy and ended steady 11/12M
51M Total, another week down, decided to finish off my track season next week with a 5K. Looking forward to an easy week after that.
> Humperdink – more fast paced running. Would a sub 90min half be on the cards?
Cheers Ally, tbh its about trying to lower my 10k this autumn before cross country season starts again in earnest. I am tempted to try a half (well I put it as a goal) but it scares me trying to run that distance fast, never mind IainRUK with his ultra's! However, all things being equal I "should" be able to run sub 70 - but then that's like saying: "I should be able to redpoint 8a" it has to be backed up with action!
M: pm - 8M steady in 51:27
Tu: lunchtime - 4/5M easy in 31:40
W: 16mins easy plus strides 2/3M
Th: Local Road relays event - 5 x 3000m leg. I was last leg and we were leading by over a minute on 4th leg when the event was cancelled due to a runner having a cardiac arrest. Fortunately he recovered. Managed an 8:15 flat out effort around almost all of the course so reckoned I'd have run about 8:40 for the whole thing. Sometimes however, there is more to life than running (or even climbing!). 6/7M total
F: 6/7M steady in 43:04
Sa: Road Session: 5,4,3,2,1min off half rep recoveries then 5min jog then 15min flat out. Its was hard but felt quite strong so pleased. 11M total
Su: 80mins started easy and ended steady 11/12M
51M Total, another week down, decided to finish off my track season next week with a 5K. Looking forward to an easy week after that.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Irrespective of the above, that's some awesome climbing Ally! In terms of shedding weight its not easy or quick in my experience. I stopped climbing probably about 4 years ago (from a level of RPing 7b/7b+) and its taken a lot of miles and time to stop looking like a gorilla when lining up against proper skinny runners. In terms of shedding leg weight specifically I think that cycling is going to build up your legs more than running (I notice you have some cycling goals which is why I mention it). Although its not really a fair comparison: who has the bigger legs, pro runners or cyclists? The other thing I've found is having a protein shake after hard sessions has helped my maintain muscle strength but my legs have got slimmer. This may be coincidence. Trouble is even though you are burning a lot of calories you might find you need to be running 30M a week to start losing some leg muscle mass and this may either also cause loss of upper body muscle as well or be time better spent doing some more productive climbing specific stuff. Sorry that's not much help but I think you are in a tough place and I suspect you probably don't have Chris Hoy style quads/hamstrings anyway!
> IainRUK & Humperdink as resident whippet runners – any advice on shedding weight – specifically leg mass? I'’ve barely got any body-fat left to loose.
Irrespective of the above, that's some awesome climbing Ally! In terms of shedding weight its not easy or quick in my experience. I stopped climbing probably about 4 years ago (from a level of RPing 7b/7b+) and its taken a lot of miles and time to stop looking like a gorilla when lining up against proper skinny runners. In terms of shedding leg weight specifically I think that cycling is going to build up your legs more than running (I notice you have some cycling goals which is why I mention it). Although its not really a fair comparison: who has the bigger legs, pro runners or cyclists? The other thing I've found is having a protein shake after hard sessions has helped my maintain muscle strength but my legs have got slimmer. This may be coincidence. Trouble is even though you are burning a lot of calories you might find you need to be running 30M a week to start losing some leg muscle mass and this may either also cause loss of upper body muscle as well or be time better spent doing some more productive climbing specific stuff. Sorry that's not much help but I think you are in a tough place and I suspect you probably don't have Chris Hoy style quads/hamstrings anyway!
In reply to Ally Smith:
Cheers Ally, I missed last week, no climbing to report though. Brilliant week for you this week, good effort!
Currently midway through a trip climbing in Norway. Afterr two and a half weeks with no climbing, it seemed a shame to head to out so unprepared but I'm climbing better than expected, still feeling strong even though I'm not as fit as I have been. Started off with glorious sunshine but spent today sat in the van hiding from rain, hopefully tomorrow will perk up.
Mon - Hell (the name of the crag, not just a really bad day). Started off at 6b+ and worked my way up 7a which felt okay, then got dragged into a 7c ground up RP attempt which ended with me falling off the last move missing a key hold. Note to self - always check out every move on an RP.
Tue - Flatanger! The Hanshalleran cave is by far the most impressive climbing I've ever seen, absolutely amazing. Warmed up on a 6c+, then spent the rest of the day falling off stuff. I'll use the hot sun and new climbing style adjustment as my excuses. Had a play on an 8a which looked like a dead giveaway from below but had an insanely hard move. Note to self - there's no such thing as an easy 8a.
Wed - Much better. Cooler conditions, and a better warm up on a 6b. Onsighted an 7a+, then flashed another after watching people work it. Next up was a 7b called Kykelli up a really technical very finger crack, and its full-body-pump-inducing 7b+ extension Kykellos, onsight again which was a big surprise as I didn't think I'd be fit enough for that level so soon after time off. Finished off the day with the easiest route actually in the cave, a 7a rising traverse with a boulder crux. Basically spent the day project t stealing - every route I did had the draws in!
Thurs - The one rainy day and we decide not to climb in the cave! Warmed up on a damp 6c slab, then came off a 7b+ onsight attempt after pulling a hold off mid crux. Bailed when the proper rain started, and returned to do a 7a+ with an amazing line called Wonderboy. Note to self - when it rains, climb in the huge cave nearby.
Fri - back at Hanshalleran. Warmed up on a short and painful 6c/7a, then tried a 7c onsight. Fell off painfully close to the chains, just a move away from the finishing jugs after misreading the sequence. It was annoyingly easy when I found the hold, especially as I'd climbed well to reach that point. Tried to flash a 7c+ with the draws in but couldn't get through the crux, managed it first RP though, which is the first time I've managed a 7c+ second go. Really cool route, three V4/5 boulder problems separated by a decent rest - steep and powerful, then funky and dynamic, and finally technical in a thin corner. Dead chuffed.
Sat - Time to leave Flatanger, bit sad as I would have stayed for the whole trip! Climbing at Ekne, a day too far really. Only did a 6c and a 7a, and they absolutely destroyed me!
Sun - driving all day (which is why I didn't rest the day before)
So yeah, much better than expected, despite a few disappointments. Heading further south now to do some scary runout granite slab big routes. Bit apprehensive but it should be exciting!
Cheers, Jake
Cheers Ally, I missed last week, no climbing to report though. Brilliant week for you this week, good effort!
Currently midway through a trip climbing in Norway. Afterr two and a half weeks with no climbing, it seemed a shame to head to out so unprepared but I'm climbing better than expected, still feeling strong even though I'm not as fit as I have been. Started off with glorious sunshine but spent today sat in the van hiding from rain, hopefully tomorrow will perk up.
Mon - Hell (the name of the crag, not just a really bad day). Started off at 6b+ and worked my way up 7a which felt okay, then got dragged into a 7c ground up RP attempt which ended with me falling off the last move missing a key hold. Note to self - always check out every move on an RP.
Tue - Flatanger! The Hanshalleran cave is by far the most impressive climbing I've ever seen, absolutely amazing. Warmed up on a 6c+, then spent the rest of the day falling off stuff. I'll use the hot sun and new climbing style adjustment as my excuses. Had a play on an 8a which looked like a dead giveaway from below but had an insanely hard move. Note to self - there's no such thing as an easy 8a.
Wed - Much better. Cooler conditions, and a better warm up on a 6b. Onsighted an 7a+, then flashed another after watching people work it. Next up was a 7b called Kykelli up a really technical very finger crack, and its full-body-pump-inducing 7b+ extension Kykellos, onsight again which was a big surprise as I didn't think I'd be fit enough for that level so soon after time off. Finished off the day with the easiest route actually in the cave, a 7a rising traverse with a boulder crux. Basically spent the day project t stealing - every route I did had the draws in!
Thurs - The one rainy day and we decide not to climb in the cave! Warmed up on a damp 6c slab, then came off a 7b+ onsight attempt after pulling a hold off mid crux. Bailed when the proper rain started, and returned to do a 7a+ with an amazing line called Wonderboy. Note to self - when it rains, climb in the huge cave nearby.
Fri - back at Hanshalleran. Warmed up on a short and painful 6c/7a, then tried a 7c onsight. Fell off painfully close to the chains, just a move away from the finishing jugs after misreading the sequence. It was annoyingly easy when I found the hold, especially as I'd climbed well to reach that point. Tried to flash a 7c+ with the draws in but couldn't get through the crux, managed it first RP though, which is the first time I've managed a 7c+ second go. Really cool route, three V4/5 boulder problems separated by a decent rest - steep and powerful, then funky and dynamic, and finally technical in a thin corner. Dead chuffed.
Sat - Time to leave Flatanger, bit sad as I would have stayed for the whole trip! Climbing at Ekne, a day too far really. Only did a 6c and a 7a, and they absolutely destroyed me!
Sun - driving all day (which is why I didn't rest the day before)
So yeah, much better than expected, despite a few disappointments. Heading further south now to do some scary runout granite slab big routes. Bit apprehensive but it should be exciting!
Cheers, Jake
Post edited at 19:49
In reply to Ally Smith: As an aside, how is K3? Looking for a local first 8a+.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks Ally
STG (by end of september)
Boulder v6 in font (September)
Train for font
MTG (end of '14)
Climb more trad
Boulder v7
Onsight 7a redpoint 7b
LTG
Lead 8a
Boulder v9
M- climbing session at local wall ok session
T- rest
W- Climb at local wall again climbed a techy long V5/6
T- Local wall again climbed a V5.
F- rest
S-rest
S-rest
Was meant to get out trad climbing on wednesday but weather had other ideas!! Will hopefully get out soon when work allows it in the mean time just training hard!
Thanks Ally
STG (by end of september)
Boulder v6 in font (September)
Train for font
MTG (end of '14)
Climb more trad
Boulder v7
Onsight 7a redpoint 7b
LTG
Lead 8a
Boulder v9
M- climbing session at local wall ok session
T- rest
W- Climb at local wall again climbed a techy long V5/6
T- Local wall again climbed a V5.
F- rest
S-rest
S-rest
Was meant to get out trad climbing on wednesday but weather had other ideas!! Will hopefully get out soon when work allows it in the mean time just training hard!
Post edited at 19:56
In reply to Joughton:
Once i was shown 2 bits of crucial beta (left knee in early & left foot high before coming out of LH undercut); it went down easy. Before that, I thought it was desperate!
It's a darn sight more burly than Aberration, that's for sure! However, it's at the bottom end of the grade if that's what you wanted to hear?
> As an aside, how is K3? Looking for a local first 8a+.
Once i was shown 2 bits of crucial beta (left knee in early & left foot high before coming out of LH undercut); it went down easy. Before that, I thought it was desperate!
It's a darn sight more burly than Aberration, that's for sure! However, it's at the bottom end of the grade if that's what you wanted to hear?
Hi guys and gals been missing a while newborns suck the life and time out of you.
Had a few weeks of doing nowt as I had no energy and lost the psyche for plastic and the wall I was training at, managed to get a new job and a new training partner and I have got psyched again with motivation and change of venue (sometimes it is the little things)
We have been training for the last 3 weeks and seeing good gains using staff recommended by Webb Parsons. Namely the one armed hangs, press-ups on the minute, pullups on the minute, ab ripper x stuff.
Next week will be much of the same but will try and post up need to do this as it works also as a motivational tool!
Goals for last week were:
- 3 Fingerboard sessions Webb Parsons 1 arm (tick)
- 1 Ring session (tick)
- 3 bouldering sessions. Tick
- 2 Core sessions sessions Ab ripper X (tick)
- 1 pressup session (tick)
LTG (End 2014):
- 8a (route to be decided)
- 7B & 7B+ (Mestizo traverse and Consolidated)
- Front Lever hold 5 sec.
- 1 arm 1/2 crimp campus rung 1st joint for 5 sec.
- Complete 3 seasons focussed periodisation training.
- weight under 75kg
MTG (Spring/Summer 2014):
- V7 (the Gutter, Roaches)
- trip to Ardeche now 7c minimum!
- indoor V7
- try and get 2 days out each month on rock (fatherhood)
- Get the board in the Abbey built with Ben!
- Weight under 77kg by August trip.
STG (The coming week)
- Try to get 1 ring sessions and three core sessions.
- Three bouldering sessions
- 2 fingerboard sessions.
- 1 pullup session.
- 2 press-ups sessions
Last Week:
M - Bouldering and core session. OK good energy
T- rest
W- Bouldering session (Wave) Fingerboard. Hard low energy
T- Rings session and core session.
F- Rest (Raft guiding for 5 hours)
S- Work but no sessions booked so 5 hours bouldering and pressup session v.low energy.
Su- Bouldering session PB's on Wave and completed a V6 problem and two V5 projects, fingerboard PB's, core session and pullup session (over 130 pullups)
Try and stay psyched for plastic!
Weight this week at 79.2 kg, going down!
Cheers all
Gordon
Had a few weeks of doing nowt as I had no energy and lost the psyche for plastic and the wall I was training at, managed to get a new job and a new training partner and I have got psyched again with motivation and change of venue (sometimes it is the little things)
We have been training for the last 3 weeks and seeing good gains using staff recommended by Webb Parsons. Namely the one armed hangs, press-ups on the minute, pullups on the minute, ab ripper x stuff.
Next week will be much of the same but will try and post up need to do this as it works also as a motivational tool!
Goals for last week were:
- 3 Fingerboard sessions Webb Parsons 1 arm (tick)
- 1 Ring session (tick)
- 3 bouldering sessions. Tick
- 2 Core sessions sessions Ab ripper X (tick)
- 1 pressup session (tick)
LTG (End 2014):
- 8a (route to be decided)
- 7B & 7B+ (Mestizo traverse and Consolidated)
- Front Lever hold 5 sec.
- 1 arm 1/2 crimp campus rung 1st joint for 5 sec.
- Complete 3 seasons focussed periodisation training.
- weight under 75kg
MTG (Spring/Summer 2014):
- V7 (the Gutter, Roaches)
- trip to Ardeche now 7c minimum!
- indoor V7
- try and get 2 days out each month on rock (fatherhood)
- Get the board in the Abbey built with Ben!
- Weight under 77kg by August trip.
STG (The coming week)
- Try to get 1 ring sessions and three core sessions.
- Three bouldering sessions
- 2 fingerboard sessions.
- 1 pullup session.
- 2 press-ups sessions
Last Week:
M - Bouldering and core session. OK good energy
T- rest
W- Bouldering session (Wave) Fingerboard. Hard low energy
T- Rings session and core session.
F- Rest (Raft guiding for 5 hours)
S- Work but no sessions booked so 5 hours bouldering and pressup session v.low energy.
Su- Bouldering session PB's on Wave and completed a V6 problem and two V5 projects, fingerboard PB's, core session and pullup session (over 130 pullups)
Try and stay psyched for plastic!
Weight this week at 79.2 kg, going down!
Cheers all
Gordon
In reply to Ally Smith:
That I've seen up close, no, but there's some on the right hand side (the pure rock bit) on the Eiger and tons on Ratikon and Wenden that are in the rough grade range (7c+-8a+ cruxes).
On the steeper side, there's Ali Baba at Aiglun at 8a+ which is mainly tufa and looks awesome, some stuff in the big cave at Verdon (Ramirole, ask Barrows if he has a decent topo) which is also mega steep, isn't there one of the routes on the Cima Ovest near Bella ista at 8a.....
I will have a think and a re-peruse for you...
That I've seen up close, no, but there's some on the right hand side (the pure rock bit) on the Eiger and tons on Ratikon and Wenden that are in the rough grade range (7c+-8a+ cruxes).
On the steeper side, there's Ali Baba at Aiglun at 8a+ which is mainly tufa and looks awesome, some stuff in the big cave at Verdon (Ramirole, ask Barrows if he has a decent topo) which is also mega steep, isn't there one of the routes on the Cima Ovest near Bella ista at 8a.....
I will have a think and a re-peruse for you...
In reply to Ally Smith: Yeah I can imagine! I'm feeling like burly is good at the moment though, I want to see what a few months of bouldering plus a bit of route fitness can do. I'll have a play anyway!
In reply to Ally Smith:
> ticked the “world's hardest V4” – I thought that title belonged to La Marie Rose at Font, which even Ondra failed to on-sight?
Just spotted this. Marie rose is only 6A so thats V2/3. I have fallen from the last move on this many times. In reply to Ally Smith:
Nothing much from me this week, went to CyL on Weds and got to the drop down move of te second fifth three times but really this is just to the RP crux. Elbows quite bad decided to rest them, first weekend without climbing for ages. It was actually quite nice!
> Tyler – Good volume of bouldering amongst the work commitments. Elbows behaving better this week? Like you, mine flare up and weirdly, resting seems to be one of the things that bring it back on.
Nothing much from me this week, went to CyL on Weds and got to the drop down move of te second fifth three times but really this is just to the RP crux. Elbows quite bad decided to rest them, first weekend without climbing for ages. It was actually quite nice!
In reply to Ally Smith:
Cheers Ally! Strong week for you, effort!
The mileage/on-sight mission has begun, enjoying it! Had to have a word with myself on Tuesday after failing to do mileage. Started going out picking pumpy/long routes now.
Monday: 25 mins Aerocap
Tuesday: LPT - Had a good onsight go on Mean Mother (7b), fell mid crux, fell on my 2nd go when I hadn't figured out the clipping position properly on the crux.
Wednesday: Rest
Thursday: Rest
Friday: Penmaen Head - 5a, 5c, 6a+, 6a+, 6b+, 6b+
Saturday: Llanddulas - 6a+, 6a+, 6b, 6b, 6b+
Sunday: Castle Inn/Penmaen Head - 4a, 4a, 5c, 5c, 6b+/6c (O/S), 6c (O/S), 6c
The easy routes were to put up a top rope for my girlfriend, the last 3 days I ended up doing most routes twice.
Cheers Ally! Strong week for you, effort!
The mileage/on-sight mission has begun, enjoying it! Had to have a word with myself on Tuesday after failing to do mileage. Started going out picking pumpy/long routes now.
Monday: 25 mins Aerocap
Tuesday: LPT - Had a good onsight go on Mean Mother (7b), fell mid crux, fell on my 2nd go when I hadn't figured out the clipping position properly on the crux.
Wednesday: Rest
Thursday: Rest
Friday: Penmaen Head - 5a, 5c, 6a+, 6a+, 6b+, 6b+
Saturday: Llanddulas - 6a+, 6a+, 6b, 6b, 6b+
Sunday: Castle Inn/Penmaen Head - 4a, 4a, 5c, 5c, 6b+/6c (O/S), 6c (O/S), 6c
The easy routes were to put up a top rope for my girlfriend, the last 3 days I ended up doing most routes twice.
Post edited at 08:51
In reply to Luke Owens:
Nice to see some successful ticks going in your logbook Luke, but don't forget to try and fit in one strength/an-cap session a week, else you'll end up weak (and fit).
A ratio of one day trying hard stuff to 3 of mileage per week should work out well.
My personal method was to try and always go home with a new tick from every session, making me do new warm-ups or end of session mileage routes so that my technique/on-sight ability didn't stagnate by doing the same routes over and over.
Doing lots of stamina/aero-cap should be rewarding for the next 12 weeks or so before the rewards plateau out.
See here:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
and here:
http://ukbouldering.com/media/pdf/periodisation.pdf
After that you'll need to embrace the bouldering and fingerboard once again!
Nice to see some successful ticks going in your logbook Luke, but don't forget to try and fit in one strength/an-cap session a week, else you'll end up weak (and fit).
A ratio of one day trying hard stuff to 3 of mileage per week should work out well.
My personal method was to try and always go home with a new tick from every session, making me do new warm-ups or end of session mileage routes so that my technique/on-sight ability didn't stagnate by doing the same routes over and over.
Doing lots of stamina/aero-cap should be rewarding for the next 12 weeks or so before the rewards plateau out.
See here:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
and here:
http://ukbouldering.com/media/pdf/periodisation.pdf
After that you'll need to embrace the bouldering and fingerboard once again!
In reply to mattrm:
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/rock/routes/itineraries/scheda.php?la...
Looking at the pitch grades, roughly speaking Ally needs to compress his entire weeks ticks into a single day and up the difficulty too
> I could see Ally doing Silbergier tho.
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/rock/routes/itineraries/scheda.php?la...
Looking at the pitch grades, roughly speaking Ally needs to compress his entire weeks ticks into a single day and up the difficulty too
In reply to Ally Smith:
Cheers Ally, I'm mainly trying to on-sighting when i'm going out (forgot to mention which routes were onsight apart from the 6c's in my update above.)
I'm finding it really rewarding so far, even in the lower grades. After an awesome session at Llanymynech last night i'm sticking at stamina/aero-cap for sure.
I originally thought the plateau was supposed to be around 8 weeks?
Regarding An-Cap/Strength, will one repeater or deadhang session a week surfice?
Cheers
Cheers Ally, I'm mainly trying to on-sighting when i'm going out (forgot to mention which routes were onsight apart from the 6c's in my update above.)
I'm finding it really rewarding so far, even in the lower grades. After an awesome session at Llanymynech last night i'm sticking at stamina/aero-cap for sure.
I originally thought the plateau was supposed to be around 8 weeks?
Regarding An-Cap/Strength, will one repeater or deadhang session a week surfice?
Cheers
In reply to AJM:
I'm sure he'd stroll up it.
> Looking at the pitch grades, roughly speaking Ally needs to compress his entire weeks ticks into a single day and up the difficulty too
I'm sure he'd stroll up it.
In reply to Luke Owens:
Careful not to work your strengths too much - make sure you're varying the rock angle too - not just the vert crimping you're already good at!
Getting spanked by different rock types/angles is all part and parcel of getting better. Enjoy the quick progress you get when trying something that you're really bad at and sticking to it!
You're right, but you need to maintain aero-cap sessions up until you start tapering.
That's strength training, not an-cap!
15 continuously hard moves, x4 with 2min rest, repeated 3 times = a solid spanking! Dogging a project can feel like an an-cap session, but without fixed rest/work intervals you're not optimising your gains.
Suck it up - go training at the crag with a stop watch if you can't bare going indoors during the summer (I know i can't!)
> I'm finding it really rewarding so far, even in the lower grades. After an awesome session at Llanymynech last night i'm sticking at stamina/aero-cap for sure.
Careful not to work your strengths too much - make sure you're varying the rock angle too - not just the vert crimping you're already good at!
Getting spanked by different rock types/angles is all part and parcel of getting better. Enjoy the quick progress you get when trying something that you're really bad at and sticking to it!
> I originally thought the plateau was supposed to be around 8 weeks?
You're right, but you need to maintain aero-cap sessions up until you start tapering.
> Regarding An-Cap/Strength, will one repeater or deadhang session a week surfice?
That's strength training, not an-cap!
15 continuously hard moves, x4 with 2min rest, repeated 3 times = a solid spanking! Dogging a project can feel like an an-cap session, but without fixed rest/work intervals you're not optimising your gains.
Suck it up - go training at the crag with a stop watch if you can't bare going indoors during the summer (I know i can't!)
In reply to Ally Smith:
Better late than never!
Thanks for doing fit club Ally
Not this week I'm afraid - man flu and heat put pay to any progress
Aims:
Rock this year: RP 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar) & lead some E3s, (White Noise, One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)
Next winter start with VI 7
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: Nothing
T: Cathedral Quarry - seconded Darklands, E2/3 depending on the guide book you read,(put it on the list if you haven't done it,) and led Night of the Hot Pies, E1 5b, tricky move past second bolt.
W: Nothing
T: 1hr fell run
F: 1hr fell run
S: 1hr finger endurance traverses
S: Travel to Devon
Weight: Still 11st 7lb
Better late than never!
Thanks for doing fit club Ally
Not this week I'm afraid - man flu and heat put pay to any progress
Aims:
Rock this year: RP 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar) & lead some E3s, (White Noise, One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)
Next winter start with VI 7
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: Nothing
T: Cathedral Quarry - seconded Darklands, E2/3 depending on the guide book you read,(put it on the list if you haven't done it,) and led Night of the Hot Pies, E1 5b, tricky move past second bolt.
W: Nothing
T: 1hr fell run
F: 1hr fell run
S: 1hr finger endurance traverses
S: Travel to Devon
Weight: Still 11st 7lb
In reply to Humperdink:
My legs slimmed down by getting off the hills.. I'm certainly heavy as a runner, still weight to drop but although quitting football slimmed them down, just not living in the mountains made a big difference for me.
But cycling does also give you muscly legs I find.. which is no bad thing running wise, I just found in the mountains I added quad bulk for some reason.. imbalances seemed to be an issue many fell runners struggle with.
My legs slimmed down by getting off the hills.. I'm certainly heavy as a runner, still weight to drop but although quitting football slimmed them down, just not living in the mountains made a big difference for me.
But cycling does also give you muscly legs I find.. which is no bad thing running wise, I just found in the mountains I added quad bulk for some reason.. imbalances seemed to be an issue many fell runners struggle with.
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